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HybridZ

macambra

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Everything posted by macambra

  1. Z31 chassis. I'm done with S30/130s. I'm too old for the smaller cars. I want some comfort. I wasactually debating between Z31 and Z32. I chose Z31 because I don't want to work on the DETT engine.
  2. To set the stage, I've been an L motor guy for decades. I sold off my S130ZXT 6 or so years ago to someone who had more time to care and feed it. Life has changed. My son enlisted. My daughter has fond memories of the ZXT and now that she is approaching driving age...she thinks I need a Z-car again...and my friend just bought a 370Z... I am pondering over a 84 Z31 AET. I used to work at the local Nissan dealer and repaired VG30s in Zs, Maxipads, and Partfinders all the time, but never combining generational components. After re-establishing my account here, I read through a bunch of threads and think maybe I have a handle on the build I wznt to do. I'm thinking a VG33ET with VG30DETT crank/rods/pistons/oil pump/lighweight flywheel/ Z32 5sp and 87 VG30ET manifolds, cams and timing set. EMS will be MS2 possibly DIS. Greddy BOV, 440cc injectors from Osidetiger. Haven't looked at intercooler options yet. I'm in the research stage prepairing to plan logistics. What did I miss?
  3. I sold my ZXT a long while back and kinda got out of the game...but I feel the call beckoning me back. This time I want to build a Frankenstein L, I remember someone started the Merc-Benz twin cam research project but I can't find his posts. Does anyone remember or know hoow to find him?
  4. Not to be a hater, but you don't NEED a GM air temp or wide band. I'm using the same NTC (negative temp coef.)thermistor as the OE cyl head temp for my intake airpurchased from an electronics warehouse online and the OE narrow band O2 and it runs great. The wide band will be helpful for later tuning but initially I recommend using the narrow band.
  5. If you are talking about the spade connector that is screwed to the bottom of the dizzy- it's just a ground -don't stress. The dizzy should be grounded via the bolts and the inset base on the timing cover. The capacitor is there to limit electrical noise-mainly for the radio-also not critical.
  6. I did insatll the USB converter and it has been working great. The next unit I build is going to be bluetooth though.
  7. I'm not either. I built my system while trying to think ahead to what I'd like to accomplish later.
  8. I've had my S130 turbo running with the DIY CAS 12-1 disk for a few months. I've had it running pretty well at 355 degrees. I'm curious what everyone else is running just for an overall reference. My Specs: L28ET F54 block Schneider stage 2 .460 lift cam Schneider 110 seat pressure valve springs P90A converted to manual adjusters T03/04 hybrid chinese turbo ArizonaZ 12.5 lb steel flywheel Six puck,solid disk,ceramic clutch 440cc injectors Palnet fuel rail MS2X Single coil
  9. Find an electrical supply store and get a "goof Plug". It's a watertight plug for electrical panels. They come in several sizes. They have an outer semi-flat washer with a stud facing inside with a weathertight gasket, an inner washer or retaining device, and a wing nut to hold it all together. Exmples: http://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Enclosures-Pilot-Devices-Hole-Seals/Eaton/10250TA7/product.aspx?zpid=12248 http://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Hole-Seals-Painted-Steel/Hoffman/AS075/product.aspx?zpid=26760
  10. Are we talking 84-88 U11 Maxima/89-94 U12 Stanza?
  11. I'm running 440cc high-z injectors simutaneously, and I run best on 3 squirts/cycle. I think that I'm going to rewire mine to 1,5,3-6,2,4 and reset mine to alternating. My idle could still use fine tuning and I think it's because of the drop in fuel pressure-watching the gauge it's all over the place.
  12. From the pic, it looks like it's in the freeze plug, which would make it a block heater for cold weather. It probably doesn't work anymore. When you rebuild the engine remove it and install a real freeze plug.
  13. Well, I think that I have it now. It will be a while before I get the cluster in. Here's the updated wiring table. Digital to Analog Wiring Table 2.0.pdf
  14. You still have the old harness from the car? Right? Cut and splice. Look at the pics and schematics above.
  15. These should be the three plugs that connect up: This one is the relay. This is for the fuse links: This one is the main harness connector: This is the entire passenger side end: The relay and the harness connector go into the hole next to the battery in the fender recess. These pics are of the harness out of my 83 turbo. I hope they can clear up some confusion.
  16. The engine harness plug for the fuselink should snap into place in the underside of the fuselink box, then you need to look at the lid and see which way the fuse links plug in(Brown vs Green). It should be straight forward, unless you dont have the connector.
  17. If it's only oil passage hole issues between them...then sounds like a drill press is in order. Isn't that what we do? Modify and Hybrid-ize to make it work? Lay out an head gasket, mark the metal one, and modify to suit.
  18. WARNING,WARNING,WARNING: I did find some discrepancies in my table while performing some live testing on the analog gauge cluster. I will post a new table when I change it.
  19. I only have the connectors and a short pigtail of the harness. I didn't have time to remove the harness from the car. We only disassembled the car far enough to cut it up. The dash was in the way so we removed it and cut the harness. Plus, I originally had no plans to swap. I decided a month or so ago that I wanted analog gauges. I kept the dash and cluster to use as a template or refinish later. I was really wanting to install an AutoMeter set of matching gauges, then I started pricing them out and I'd be spending around $2k for what I want. So, $2K or a little wiring work for a cluster I have in hand...Hmm...Hindsight is 20/20.
  20. I don't know. I removed it from a car a buddy and I cut up a couple years ago.The harness matches the 1980 diagram not the 79. It's definitely MPH. Whatever, it doesn't matter, I have it and am putting it in the car when I get the wiring sorted. Edit: I remembered that I have the dash in my garage. Here's the vin: JN1HZ04S9BX255408 According to FAST it was produced in 8/80. I'm not saying that it wasn't replaced some time in it's life though.
  21. I have a 130mph speedo and from what I can tell it came from an 80. Probably a late 79 production sold as an 80. The wiring matches to the 80 FSM.
  22. So, my plan (hopefully soon)is to replace the idiotic digital cluster with an analog unit that I acquired a couple of years ago. I am rolling an 83 ZXT, and I have an analog cluster from an 80. I have a spare digital unit that I have torn apart so I can compare them side by side. I compared the wiring drawings in the back of both manuals and created a table for making my own harness between the original wiring and the analog. If anybody has experience doing this or additions to my table please contribute. I am not removing the dash assembly or replacing the harness in it. So, please don't comment unless it is productive for this conversation. WARNING-I'm not sure about all of the leads in the table. I have crossed what I think fits based on terminations listed in the manual. There alot of differences between the 83 and the 80. Instrument cluster conversion.pdf
  23. Is anyone else out there running MS2X 3.2.1 with the DIYAutotune 12-1 disk and have it running well? Mine runs pretty pretty good, but I can tell there is room to improve. I'm interested in checking out your settings if you would mind posting it. Thanks!! my 280zxt PDF.pdf
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