Guest Anonymous Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Guys, if I wanna put a ford in my Z (GT40 headed 302, tremec 3550 or t5 tranny) all I gotta do is fab up some motor mounts? Okay, thanks to Alsil (I think it was his drawing) I can do that. But what else has to change from the JTR conversion? Can I use the Chevy slave/clutch cylinder? Will the wiring still be simple like the JTR chevy? Also, I think Alsil's mounts bolt to the frame, correct? It will be a carburated engine so my guess is it'll be EZ. Alsil, what do you say? JTR sure makes the chevy sound EZ, but if I can get 345--375 hp outta a light little ford I'd like to go that way. Am I asking for trouble? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 all this from the guy that was telling me, im gonna do a mild swap.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Hey baby, what you gonna have in your pants after this new project??? Eh? hahahahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Leonard, I know you're gonna make some fire breathing dragon. I'm gonna eat you up! I think your tranny will work in my car. If not, at least I'll have a spare! Hehehehe. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Well, from my experience, the differences are not too bad, but here's pretty much what I did: -Frame mounts for the engine -cut motor mount perches from the crossmember -I used the JTR tranny mount and added 2 hole to it. I had to use a special trans mount. I'll look up the part # for you. -Since I used a power steering setup from the Mustang I got my stuff from, I had to use a remote oil filter setup. You don't have to do this with a stock rack. -I used a VDO electronic speedo, the new 4" model. That way I don't need to make a new speedo cable. -I used a Summit Racing radiator (for Ford) that is 25"x19" with a Black Magic fan. -I adapted the water and oil senders to the Ford engine. Didn't work well, they don't show much, I'm going to go with VDO guages for both next year. -If you use stock steering, you can use Heddman or Hooker block hugger exhaust with no problem. I made things difficult for myself (by putting in the Power Steering) so I lost clearence on the driver's side. I had to use a modified stock manifold ont he driver's side, and a Hooker header on the passenger side. -For the cluth operation, I used a Tilton 7/8" Master Cylinder, and a Neal pulling slave cylinder. This was documented a while back in this forum about alternatives to the Hydrolic throw out. It is a bit heavy, but I think it's my clutch that make mine so heavy. It bolts up right into place on the firewall, and is easily attatched to the bellhousing. The guy who posted about it also had a drawing all all the parts needed listed. -I "clearenced" the front crossmember about 3/4" in the middle for oil pan clearence. makes it easier to get to the front oil plug. Also, gives the oil pan a good 1" of clearence. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Email me if you have any questions. I will try and update my website soon, too. Been SUPER busy trying to get the car to run right, along with writing for a new album and tons of shows. I'll post when I have it done. AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 13, 2001 Share Posted September 13, 2001 Boy, you rock stars have a really busy life! Jon, good luck with the V8 conversion; I know you are addicted to the power too! I just don't have the time & money to do the Ford conversion, although I think it's a perfectly viable alternative to the Chevy. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 i dont think a 5.0 will fit with ANY block huggers without modifying the steering rod... at least none of the ones i tried.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsil Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Really? Looked like it would fit with my setup, but I didn't try it. What did you use, Mike? Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Did you guys tilt the block away from the steering column when you made the mounts? Or did you put the engine straight in? Even the Chevy with the blockhuggers is tight. I have maybe an 1/8" on that side and theres quite a bit of tilt built into JTR's spacers towards the passengers side. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 My plan is to get the engine and tranny with headers (block hugger?) and then position the engine, then make the mounts. Is that a feasible approach? I figure that way I can position the engine just right and make sure I have the clearances and offset I need. Also, I think the Ford 302 is not as wide as the Chevy 350, right? Hey Davy, you just want the 50 extra cubes, you HP hound dawg you! Thanks for the info. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 the 5.0 may not be as wide but the header collectors are further back and mine miss the TC mounts by 1/8" or so on each side. one side is maybe 3/16". the header hit the shaft by a good 1/2" so no way it would miss. i tried dynomax and flowtech. there was another brand to try that had a real tight block hugger but i could not get it local to try out. i know Dan used a heim as well. when i first had the motor in it appeared to be ok- but once i got to put the headers on it was NO way.. i did the mounts so that the motor was symmetrical (as close as possible) and so that i could MAYBE pull the bellhousing without pulling the motor out.. then i worried about mounts and then the headers at the same time. once this was done the tranny mount and angle for the driveshaft and i left the steering for last.. figured it wasnt a big deal anyway so why worry about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Regarding headers: I saw somewhere where a guy added a u-joint to the steering shaft. It looked like a really clean set-up, but does it affect the steering at all? Also, with the lighter weight of the engine, could I get away with mounting it a little more forward (2-3")and get the clearance? I don't have a problem with customizing the oil pan to clear the crossmember (like making it a center sump affair) and run shorty type headers? If not, is a header kit a workable option? Seems like it might be a pain, but what do you guys think? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 I've seen a 302 mounted with stock FOX headers, tranny alignedshifter okay, hood capable of closing. I'm really not sure how he did it and the project was actually abandoned but it certainly looked nearly ready to roll. What did he do so differently? Mount the motor higher maybe? I think he's still got sets of mounts for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 My 1974 260 has a 5.0L and T5. The engine is mounted as far back as physically possible. The upper intake (fuel injected) is less than 1/8" from the hood latch. The front sum is 1/8" behind the front crossmember. The engine is centered between the frame rails. In use dynomax block-hugger headers, and they clear the T/C mounts by less than 1/8". I had to install a u-joint in the steering shaft to clear the headers. The u-joint was no big deal. The engine sits as low as I dared. The centerline of the crank is even with the top of the frome rails. The engine sits in the car 2.5 degrees nose up, and the angle of the differential has been adjusted to match. The placement of the engine allow the shifter to come throgh the stock hole in the floor and console. I use a full size oil filter in the stock location, and the full size Ford clutch fan. I would not mount the engine further forward because the shifter will not be in the right location. I would not mount the engine higher because the upper intake will not clear the hood. I would not mount the engine at a large angle because the fan will not clear the hood. A possibility is to go further back. This would require removing the stock hood latch, and clearancing the tunnel for bellhosing clearance. Even with the removal of the latch and clearancing the tunnel, the engine would only be moved 1.5 inches further back before the firewall would need to be altered. I believe that Mike (scca) has his engine placed the same as mine although he used different mounts. Good Luck, Dan McGrath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 yes. mine is pretty well a copy of Dan's.. i may have mine lower as the oil filter did fit but flex in the mounts caused the steering shaft to mark up the filter. i've since installed a 90 degree filter. the other possiblity is my mounts are not stiff enough...but we may have mounted the heim in different locations so each part affects the outcome.. do youwant carb or FI? there are only 3 FI cars that i know of Dan, Firebern and myself, all the rest are carb'd.... i think the FI is the way to go but definitley more work to install, the wiring is the easy part though. i shortened my hood latch for more intake clearance, and it does miss the pan like Dans of very little. if anything i will notch the front x-member over the winter for the front drain plug.. and be installing frame connectors .... oh.. and its VERY fast between the liteness and the way a 5.0 revs (with the roller cam) i think its just as fast as any SBC conversion that is mild.. it will cost more, although i may have found a way to do a hydraulic clutch easier than dan and i did....saw a push type slave mounted behind the fork... may be easier than the way al mounted the pull type slave. as for the 302-carb'd one blkmgk is talking about -- first of all its not running.... second it may be a toploader and the hurst shifter comes further back?? so mounting the engine further forward allowed the shifter to still come thru the correct area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Mike(scca), Rather than notch the cross-member, I moved the drain-plug on the front sump from the front to the bottom. It was very easy to do. Drill out two spot welds, remove the threaded insert. Weld up the old hole. Drill new hole and spot weld the insert in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 quote In use dynomax block-hugger headers, and they clear the T/C mounts by less than 1/8". Are the T/C mounts the motor mounts? quote ...but we may have mounted the heim in different locations so each part affects the outcome. Is the heim the heim on the steering shaft? Thanks to everyone for the help and advice. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 TC mounts are the camel hump things that the TC mounts to. TC referring to Tension compression rod. or strut rod - each person calls it something else. i believe nissan calls it TC. anyway the rod from a-arm to the frame for stability. the place where it mounts in rubber/urethane has a big curved mount that is welded to the frame this most inner edge will come REAL close to the header collector flange...... yes the heim was the one on the steering shaft. its a relation of header choice and mount location as to where you mount the heim support.. it will need one support or it will flop around.. i have a TON of pics of my install on line just follow the website and look at convt 5L install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 14, 2001 Share Posted September 14, 2001 Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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