Siberian Husky Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 I want to do some coilovers on my 280z. I swapped everything over from my 240z so im running 240z suspension. I want to go with ground control and am assuming I have to buy the 240z kit because of the tube diameter, but I was wondering if the spring rate wouldn't suffice on that 240z kit, I think the 280z kit comes with higher rated springs due to weight difference. I also am not sure about what strut cartridge to use, I understand that the MR2 inserts allow for a shorter stroke allowing me to achieve a ride height like this (http://www.stancenation.com/forums/showthread.php?4194-73-240z) without compromising quality or allowing for bottoming. I'm not sure if I'm going to end up with a reverse rake, however, because of the longer strut tunnel on the 280z body. I'm farming out the labor, but it is up to me to get the right parts so I was wondering if one of you guys could point me in the right direction. I have read the FAQs on the coilover's but they don't really speak to my unique situation. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Spring rates are the same on a 280z.. I don't believe it's a big enough weight difference to make it any different. If you buy the GC coilover kit through techno toy tuning, you can choose your spring rates ( I chose 225 for the front and 250 for the rear). Not sure if handling is important to you or not, but many knowledgeable, super experienced Z suspension experts on here will tell you again and again that a Z will not handle as well when it is that low. But if stance is your thing, go for it! I'm not sure if the mr2 inserts are short enough to effeciently get you that low... it sounds like he's using ae86 inserts. I do not know if they will fit a stock Z strut tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Coil-overs are great, but please, let this crazy fad of tires hanging out pass you by...these cars are getting so rare, that it really hurts to see one butchered by this "stance" craze. If you want to actually drive your car, the tires need to stay INSIDE the fenders, or else you are going to cut your tire and kink your quarter panels when the fender hits the tire. Destroy some yugo or something, but save the z-car for those of us who want to actually fix them up and drive them fast. I've got coilovers and I love them: slam the pee out of it, but keep the tires inside, where they belong. I have a GC system with MR2 struts in front, 240z front struts in back and 225F/250R springs and I could easily get that low. I'd set my toe in for some reasonable ride height like 5 inches, then slam it at the show, then raise it back up before you hit the road. It only takes a few minutes to change the ride height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siberian Husky Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 i was told not to use 240z struts on a 280z. a shop told me that they were more likely to blow due to difference in weight. also, can i just use mr2 all around or would that drop me too low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) The business about weight is pure bull. Whoever you talked to didn't know what he was talking about. Use whatever diameter strut insert will fit inside the tubes. If your tubes are 240, then you need 240 diameter inserts. You might try calling Tokiko tech support. Maybe you'll get a tuner on the phone who can help you see what your options are. I've even heard of guys using VW rabbit inserts to shorten the tubes way low. I just know what fit my car as stated above. I bought used tubes from an IT racer that were already cut, so I had to use the inserts that he cut down for. Send a PM to ComicArtist and he can probably help you with some of the crazy combinations that CAN be done. He just went thru this and he is dragging the street. He's a young guy and is into the low-at-all costs scene/fashion/style/whatever-you-want-to-call-it. Just know that the lower you go, the less you will want to actually drive your car. It really starts to be a pain. You will start rubbing here and there on your chasssis, you will have to space your swaybar away from the frame rail and you'll start going thru ball joints and u-joints. You will find that there are fewer and fewer driveways and parking lots that you can get in and out of. Don't worry about "blowing" a shock. It just loses gas and stops working-it is not like your car will collapse, the spring is what holds it up. Don't try to go very fast in a really lowered car, you'll find that even crossing a seam in the pavement rocks your world. Edited March 18, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 The business about weight is pure bull. Whoever you talked to didn't know what he was talking about. Use whatever diameter strut insert will fit inside the tubes. If your tubes are 240, then you need 240 diameter inserts. You might try calling Tokiko tech support. Maybe you'll get a tuner on the phone who can help you see what your options are. I've even heard of guys using VW rabbit inserts to shorten the tubes way low. I just know what fit my car as stated above. I bought used tubes from an IT racer that were already cut, so I had to use the inserts that he cut down for. Send a PM to ComicArtist and he can probably help you with some of the crazy combinations that CAN be done. He just went thru this and he is dragging the street. He's a young guy and is into the low-at-all costs scene/fashion/style/whatever-you-want-to-call-it. Just know that the lower you go, the less you will want to actually drive your car. It really starts to be a pain. You will start rubbing here and there on your chasssis, you will have to space your swaybar away from the frame rail and you'll start going thru ball joints and u-joints. You will find that there are fewer and fewer driveways and parking lots that you can get in and out of. Don't worry about "blowing" a shock. It just loses gas and stops working-it is not like your car will collapse, the spring is what holds it up. Don't try to go very fast in a really lowered car, you'll find that even crossing a seam in the pavement rocks your world. I couldn't agree more. I don't think a couple hundred pounds will make the shock blow. In a 4-seater do you tell people they can't sit in the back seat because then your shocks will blow? Haha maybe as a joke or because you don't want them sitting there. The shop was most likely either un-educated in the actual weight difference, or trying to cover their ass so you didn't come back with blown shocks and blame them (people have done crazier things and shops don't need lawsuits). And you must have 240z struts in there anyways, have they blown prematurely? I'd do the Mr2 shocks for the front and the front Z shocks for the rear. It is the "standard" job, and there's a reason for it: the Mr2 shocks come with a gland nut that bolts right into the Z strut tube. I did have to do some honing to my strut tube and some sanding to the shock to get it in there, but that may be normal for illumina shocks, regardless of whether or not they're designed for a Z or not. I have yet to section my rear struts (or remove them) so I don't know how the rears will go together, but plenty of people have had good success with that, and I would assume you will as well! Honestly though, if you're looking to go that low, you may be better off to go with an s13 or an integra dc2 coilover. Thats what the Z "stance god", yuta did to his Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Don't listen to that shop anymore. Shocks do not blow from the weight of the car. Shocks do not support the vehicle's weight. Shocks blow due to: 1. Improper installation. 2. Manufacturing defects. 3. Missing bumpstops (shock bottoms hard). 4. Too high of a spring rate for the shock valving (rebound stack fails). And please search the FAQs and stickys. All these questions have been answered many times of the last decade this site has been here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 So, now you've heard it from both some novices and a pro race car builder/fabricator who does this sort of thing on a daily basis. Do some more research with the "sticky-noted" part of this forum, PM ComicArtist to get advice from the low-rider set, and call tech support at a couple of strut companies. Then, buy some struts and get out the chop saw and welder. Good luck with your project-post some pics when you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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