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Decided To Go LS1 Instead of L28T!


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I would have never thought I would put a V8 in the Z, but after coming across the info on Johns Cars sight I changed my mind. Producing the power an LSx does stock and moving the engine weight further back in the Z...... Nostalgia aside it really is a no brainer.

 

IMAG0326.jpg

 

I've skimmed through the first 40 pages of the Gen III & IV forum and have found a lot of good info. My plan going forward:

 

Fuel: Sumped tank, Walbro pump, C5 filter/regular mounted in engine bay, stock fuel rail flipped.

 

Mounts: John's Cars engine, John's Cars transmission (with modification to mount to Bad Dog frame rails).

 

JTR: Headers, radiator (stock Camaro cooling fans), and intake set up.

 

PCM: www.Wait4mePerofmance.com code delete and harness modification, mounted under glove box

 

Anyway I just wanted to introduce myself to the V8 crowd. Any input is welcome!

 

 

Here is my build thread:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90669-1973-240z-build/page__st__60__gopid__1001606#entry1001606

 

One last thing..... below was the only thread I could find on the emissions removal. Are there any other threads that better identify the unneeded stuff from the engine?

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82672-ls1-top-view/

Edited by UofA_ZCar
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One of the best things I bought for my conversion was a factory service manual so that I could use the right terms for all the parts. If you don't have one get one. These motors use really low torque wrench settings due to the aluminum. I had no EFI experience and was totally clueless. Remove the EVAP system (tubing and solenoid), power steering, air conditioning. The EVAP system is just a fumes recovery system from the fuel tank kind of similar to the z-cars charcoal canister. Put a rubber vacuum cap from the HELP section of your corner parts store on the throttle body where you removed the EVAP tubing. Keep the crank case venting from the valve cover and figure out how to route it back into the cold air tubing. I don't know if it matters whether it HAS to go before the throttle body or if you can attach it to the old EVAP port directly on the throttle body. Maybe somebody else can talk to that issue? Remove factory exhaust manifolds and rear O2 sensors, but dont chuck them because the rears have longer wires and you may need them later depending on how your exhaust is done. As I recall, that is all I took off the pollution system.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Keep the crank case venting from the valve cover and figure out how to route it back into the cold air tubing. I don't know if it matters whether it HAS to go before the throttle body or if you can attach it to the old EVAP port directly on the throttle body. Maybe somebody else can talk to that issue?

 

The PCV system has to be plumbed in so that the air is measured by the MAF. Fresh air from the passenger cover has to draw after the MAF (before the throttle plate) and the line from the PCV valve should go to the intake manifold.

 

My truck throttle body has a port for attaching the fresh air inlet for the passenger valve cover. This port draws from in front of the plate.

Edited by i r teh noobz
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One thing I'll mention when using the bully dog frame rails with the JCI engine mounting kit: I had to cut about 3/16" out of the tranny brace to fit between the rails. Even then it was tight. There is enough play in the bolt holes that you can still just cut one side of it and have the mount still sit in the center.

 

I'm basically at the same stage you are with the build. I'm learning a lot about the LS motors. It's amazing what a decent exhaust can do!

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