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Everything posted by nick-james

  1. I built my car many years ago not knowing about suspension. I bought/pillaged a person's adjustable coilovers from their s30 project they failed to complete. I know nothing of the stats on the coilovers I bought other than it rides like a medieval ox cart lol. I'm assuming they went for some extreme track setup and its absolutely punishing on the street. Very bouncy and it seems (my guess) that the super stiff spring rates are overwhelming the damping of the strut. I've actually hit my head on the roof going over a train track. I'm wondering when my strut tower mounts are going to start cracki
  2. People have done that before. You still have a massive area up front though. I would have also opted for the solid airdamn, not the one with duct holes. The "battle S30" also has an angled radiator. That 'battle s30' is sweet! I wanted to keep the side ducts for brake cooling. The overall goal for me is to 1) Reduce the gapping mouth on the front and only let air in for cooling and keep the hood vents to allow the most air out, hopefully reducing lift. I don't think I can hope for much downforce but I think I can at least get down close to neutral. Even with a choked down ducted
  3. I'm trying to improve on the aerodynamics of my Z. I've deleted the size markers lights, antenna, side view mirrors (can get away without them in my area) and wipers (sunny day only car). I switched to a vented hood in the hopes of extracting some of that high pressure from the engine bay at speed. Now, my question is: Do people tie-in the MSA front spoiler to the radiator area? The Z's around my area just leave it open, which looks strange to me. It's my sense that it would be more effective to duct it to the radiator. Also, I would like to block off the sides of the duct too since that
  4. The stock t56 mount. It would be hard for me to believe that the distance between the frame rails has changed that much because of driving fatigue. One possible explaination might be that people have jacked up the cars on the rails and dented or bent the rail. Mine were sorta bent before I added the bullydog rails.
  5. I had to shorten the JCI tranny mount by about a 1/4 inch. It "looks" like it might bend but that metal is THICK and is very rigid. I just cut the thing in two and rewelded (bevel cut). You can take the extra 1/4 inch out of one or the other side, it didn't seem to matter because there is a little "slop" in the tranny mount and it will still be pretty much centered.
  6. Here's what I did to convert an open R200 diff to LSD... I bought an LSD differential from a 240sx. The LSD will bolt into the S30 long nose housing EXCEPT the ring gear needs to be swapped since they are different ratios and you need to match the ring and pinion...so reuse the open diff ring gear. Like an idiot, I took out the LSD and open diff before unbolting the ring gear bolts. It's difficult to get any torque on the bolts if its out. I took it into a driveshaft shop since I don't know how to set backlash. The only hangup is one differential uses M10 bolts while the other
  7. For the folks that have put plenty of money and sweat equity in making their hybrid beasts, what insurance company do you have? I feel that with all the time and effort I've placed into mine (still not done), I would want more than a simple bluebook calculation of it's value if the worse were to happen and it was totaled out. Thanks in advance for the reply.
  8. Man, I like how I don't post an update for a weeks or two and I'm on page 4 or 5 of the posts! It's nice to see the project area is that busy. Well I found out that the engine cranks over ok. It was purely an accident. I was finishing up the major wiring and testing some circuits for power when I pushed the ignition switch and...whacha know! She lives (sorta). I still need to finish my fuel routing. Here is my new fuel pump relay: 60 amp relay with inline fuse. It will be nice and hidden behind the plastic insert. It would be pretty easy to add a kill switch on the backsi
  9. With the engine bay painted, it was time to put the motor and tranny in. I'm really, really glad I got an engine leveler for the job since we had fresh paint on the firewall and I was more than a little nervous about banging the tranny against it. I used JCI engine and tranny mounts and they worked perfectly despite terrible instructions. It really hit me when I stood back and just thought "my datsun has a v8 now!" One of the nice surprises is how little wiring is showing. The only part of the engine harness that will show is about a 4" section between the motor and the firewall (I mounte
  10. Here's some new pics: Before: After: Waiting on some headers before we put the engine in. Oh and I got my coil overs welded onto the a-arms, but I don't have any pics of those.
  11. One thing I'll mention when using the bully dog frame rails with the JCI engine mounting kit: I had to cut about 3/16" out of the tranny brace to fit between the rails. Even then it was tight. There is enough play in the bolt holes that you can still just cut one side of it and have the mount still sit in the center. I'm basically at the same stage you are with the build. I'm learning a lot about the LS motors. It's amazing what a decent exhaust can do!
  12. ^that is a front airdam to a civic. Its ricer-ish and i wish it wasnt in the shop haha. Dont worry, im not putting that on my car.
  13. 5/3/12-we started priming the engine bay. To get the really hard to see imperfections, it helps a lot to have a uniform surface. I know its just primer but it got me excited to see part of the car one color even if its gray. If you remember when i got it, the corner had been rusted through. We patched a 1'x1' square section into the firewall. You could never tell it wasnt factory. My friend has some impressive body working skills from what ive seen so far. We left the frame rails in POR15 because the **** is awesome and i like contrast.
  14. 4/29/2012- Anthony is continuing with the body work. The most labor intensive area is the engine bay...lots of little spot welds and brackets to grind smooth and cover. The battery area was completely rusted though so we had to weld in a new patch panel and then fill in the remainder with "kitty hair" (gross looking stuff btw) and filler. It's super smooth and almost ready for primer. I went to pick up the engine. I had some question if my little truck could haul it or if the engine would make it ride on the bump stops the whole way home. To my surprise, the
  15. Make some progress on the little things. My friend was nice enough to let me have his cool aluminum battery box. It should fit great tucked into the rear quarter panel. After some thought, I think I'll go with a full size optima. I like how small some of the new batteries are but I've heard that you really have to be carefull with the braile's and other small batterys because they can run down fast if you have your radio or lights on for an extended time. Being that this is going to be a semi-DD street car, I wanted some insurance. I've got the main positive wire routed up through the fr
  16. I put my 76 280z on one and it worked fine. Ofcourse, it was just the stripped down unibody. Putting a whole care on it would make me nervous.
  17. I have a 76 280z thats undergoing an engine swap. I used an aftermarket wiring harness that has provisions for gm plugs (ignition, alternator and column assembly). I went to the junkyard and discovered that all of the gm turn signal/headlight switchs (the stalk on the left side of the steering wheel) were complete junk. Every single switch had tons of play and just felt like stirring a stick in gravel...nothing i wanted to put in my project car. The more i thought about it, i suspect that most turn signal/headlight switches are basically all the same (i think). Im fairly proficient i
  18. No, its just bolted to the firewall and not the dash. I dont think it would really matter as everything ahould line up together. The more i think about it, there has to be something jammed between the firewall and the flange.
  19. There is one small detail that for the life of me can't figure out! And it a pretty dumb one: I bolted up my steering column to the firewall with the normal 4 bolt flange attachment. It's pretty hard to screw that part up, there really is only two ways to bolt the steering column up. Obviously the shaft is at an angle to the flange plate and you want that to protrude up towards the roof and not down towards the floor as shown: (I feel dumb even explaining this by the way)...why is my steering wheel so low then? It can't be right but the flange is bolted tight to the fire
  20. I've been having fun putting together the wiring harness. I completed the rear section of the car (reverse, parking, turn signals etc). Everything is soldered and shrink wrapped. The wiring kit I used has some amazing think gauge wires for just powering tail lights, I'm impressed. I like the look and feel of LED lights, especially since they don't really have a downside to speak of. I've been looking at these: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html They sell drop in replacements for the stock bulb! I've heard good revi
  21. I love the 4g! I put one in a mightymax truck and its my daily driver. I can only imagine how much room you will have under that hood.
  22. I ordered a 15 gallon fuel cell. It's a pretty nice unit. Installed flush with the floor. The way it sits, its not track legal because there is no barrier between the fuel tank and the interior. Meh, I don't really mind. It looks cool and I don't really plan on taking it to the drag strip. The stock wiring is a complete disaster. Little critters had been crewing on it and its just overly complicated. I ordered a 20 circut, micro fused wiring harness from EZ-wire. It's a nice kit and it comes with the gm connection for alternator, ignition and steering column assemb
  23. I think I've decided on a color: metallic merlot red. We sprayed a patch panel and it looks nice but im still waiting to see what it looks like in the sun...when we get any. Also got a christmas gift, leather momo competition wheel. Such a nice wheel! Anthony has been buzy cutting out the driver's side rear quarter panel and replacing it with a new one. He will post some pics later. While he's been doing body work, I've been busy going through the wiring harness. I plotted out a full color diagram of the harness to guide me but I ran into some issues: The little
  24. Frame rails are on... Using the old crusty, rusty master cylinder to mock up some brake lines... Undercoated the interior. Whew...the 3m spray stuff really requires some good ventilation. I started getting dizzy.
  25. Started to apply some POR15. If you've never used the stuff, its amazing. The only thing its sticks to better than metal is skin. I managed to kick over a can of the stuff and spill about $50 of it all over the floor. It still pisses me off that I managed to do that. New frame rails should be here soon, then its time to rotate the car so we can weld and coat the underside of the car. Still pondering if a stock ls1 would suffice or if I should go big and do something wacky like a supercharged ls2 etc...
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