Robftw Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) Can the brake pressure differential warning light be bypassed? My line lock only allows for one line in, and one line out. I've searched and cant find an answer.. I drew a picture of how the brakes will be set up. if anyone has a suggestion on how to run the lines with the original warning light switch please post an ms paint drawing, this things boggling my mind on what would be "safest" Edited May 29, 2012 by Robftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 What year is your Z? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I am on my second time plumbing of my line lock. On my second time, I eliminated the warning light manifold completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 What year is your Z? 1977 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I think there is a proportioning valve in the 1977 brake light switch. If not, its on the firewall near the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robftw Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 I think there is a proportioning valve in the 1977 brake light switch. If not, its on the firewall near the switch. That's the part im getting hung up on, the one on the firewall is a full blown proportioning valve, the one on the cars engine bay fender is also a type of proportioning valve, it also has the warning light switch in it.. if fluid goes to the fronts or rears more than the other the piston inside moves and trips it. However, it has 1 in, 2 front outs and 1 rear out.. I don't know if i can just remove it entirely. It's already unplugged and has been like that for 2 years now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 The warning switch block has no proportioning properties whatsoever. The fact that the plunger will slide to the circuit that has lost pressure is not an indication of proportioning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) Don't get hung up on the switch valve. Either use it or chuck it. If it has been disconnected then you dont have to use it. You are thinking too hard. Study those pictures I talked to you about in my thread on this subject. If you want to do the minimum amount of tubing work, keep the switch valve just copy my set up. If you want to eliminate you switch valvethen run the line lock solenoid from the front brakes port on the MC then come off that outlet with a T fitting and run one line to each front brake line. Splice in with little coupling from you parts store. Edited May 30, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMission Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 ^Agreed. a Linelock solenoid after the switch and before the T will do the trick just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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