Daz Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 I'm installing my JCI LS mounts for my 4.8 build but the driverside is giving me some fitment issue's. Every time I line the crossmember bolts up I am left with a gap on the JCI driverside mount. Could it be the my control arm bushing are wrong? The thick side goes in the front maybe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Can you take us a picture from the top side but from farther back? I need to see the whole mount for context. I had to trim the front of mine and slot the mounting hole in the front end where it bolts to the old motor mount tower with a single bolt. JCI has a fair amount of "product drift" where the finished parts vary from the prototype a little bit. Just about every aftermarket parts supplier has some product drift. Lots of us have had the same problem with our tranny mounts. Post another picture for final answer. Subscribed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) Sorry for the mess ! Edited July 3, 2012 by Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Great photos. Check to make sure you have the round, thick metal spacer installed per the instructions. If you do, I say take it off and trim the front end of it that inserts "inside" the old Nissan motor mount tower and slot the bolt hole in the mount so you can still bolt it up. I had to trim mine some. You'll just have to pray that the manufacturing error is on that end, and not on the TC rod end, so that your motor will go in straight....mine went in fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 Great photos. Check to make sure you have the round, thick metal spacer installed per the instructions. If you do, I say take it off and trim the front end of it that inserts "inside" the old Nissan motor mount tower and slot the bolt hole in the mount so you can still bolt it up. I had to trim mine some. You'll just have to pray that the manufacturing error is on that end, and not on the TC rod end, so that your motor will go in straight....mine went in fine. Alright man ! I appreciate the help. I did the typical guy thing when I first got it and NOT READ the instructions at all. I was trying to put the mount on the the outside of the original stock mount instead of inside. Obviously it wouldn't fit so I was pounded on it a little. I hope I didn't cause this, we'll see if it comes out good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 I had to take a BFH to the top of that box that houses the T/C rod body side mount. Mine fits "OK" but its a far cry at quality from many of the kits out there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Great photos. Check to make sure you have the round, thick metal spacer installed per the instructions. If you do, I say take it off and trim the front end of it that inserts "inside" the old Nissan motor mount tower and slot the bolt hole in the mount so you can still bolt it up. I had to trim mine some. You'll just have to pray that the manufacturing error is on that end, and not on the TC rod end, so that your motor will go in straight....mine went in fine. I did what you suggested ! I trimmed a 1/4" off the front end and slotted the bolt hole. It sits flush now but it was still a pain to get the bolt holes drilled for the T/C end. I just realized what BFH means ! Too funny, especially since its my answer to all my car problems that I have ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 You need to get to know BFCW too: big f-in' cutoff wheel ( or angle grinder. That was my #1 tool with BFH second. WLDT is wonderful little dremel tool is 3rd. Buy lots of those little fiber reinforced cutting wheels and a carbide cutter bit for slotting bolt holes that are misaligned. Some more cutting to do before you are thru with that mount. Use the next size larger drill bit to open the holes for the bolt that goes thru the LS motor mount. That sucker it too close tolerance and getting the bolt thru when installing the motor is a royal pain. I don't know if the powder coating made the hole smaller but it will make life a little easier later if you do that now. What headers you gonna use? The collector on the JTR sandersons rubs the back near the TC rod so grind as much off that corner as you can without cutting into the weld. Look at the long tube header thread. If you think you will want the long tubes 1tuffz had made, that mount needs a chunk cut out of it for that. I also notched mine for the brake line to have a little room so that it can be removed someday if needed. The passenger side mount is perfect out of the box. Damn alternator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 That big as_ red TC rid bushing may be too big for the headers to clear as well. If there is a conflict there look at an adjustable TC rid that bolts straight to the frame with no bushing. That gives you lots more room. More money..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 That big as_ red TC rid bushing may be too big for the headers to clear as well. If there is a conflict there look at an adjustable TC rid that bolts straight to the frame with no bushing. That gives you lots more room. More money..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 That big as_ red TC rid bushing may be too big for the headers to clear as well. If there is a conflict there look at an adjustable TC rid that bolts straight to the frame with no bushing. That gives you lots more room. More money..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UofA_ZCar Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 It sits flush now but it was still a pain to get the bolt holes drilled for the T/C end. Getting that lined up right was a pain. I had to take a BFH to the top of that box that houses the T/C rod body side mount. Mine fits "OK" but its a far cry at quality from many of the kits out there.... Mine also needed some persuasion from a BFH, but bolted on without modification to the mount. Some more cutting to do before you are thru with that mount. Use the next size larger drill bit to open the holes for the bolt that goes thru the LS motor mount. That sucker it too close tolerance and getting the bolt thru when installing the motor is a royal pain. I didn't drill mine out but it did take three guy shifting the engine back/forth, about 20 minutes, and putting a screw driver through the opposite end you are feeding the bolt through to get it lined up. Also, do the passenger side engine mount bolt first and then do the drivers side (stock GM LSX mount).... so much easier in that order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 You need to get to know BFCW too: big f-in' cutoff wheel ( or angle grinder. That was my #1 tool with BFH second. WLDT is wonderful little dremel tool is 3rd. Buy lots of those little fiber reinforced cutting wheels and a carbide cutter bit for slotting bolt holes that are misaligned. Some more cutting to do before you are thru with that mount. Use the next size larger drill bit to open the holes for the bolt that goes thru the LS motor mount. That sucker it too close tolerance and getting the bolt thru when installing the motor is a royal pain. I don't know if the powder coating made the hole smaller but it will make life a little easier later if you do that now. What headers you gonna use? The collector on the JTR sandersons rubs the back near the TC rod so grind as much off that corner as you can without cutting into the weld. Look at the long tube header thread. If you think you will want the long tubes 1tuffz had made, that mount needs a chunk cut out of it for that. I also notched mine for the brake line to have a little room so that it can be removed someday if needed. The passenger side mount is perfect out of the box. Damn alternator! I have a angle grinder(use all the time) and WLDT(but I don't use it much). I love my harbor freight tools(cause they haven't broken yet!). My 4.8 will be turboed(T76) so no need for headers that drop down to that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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