JustAFantaZ Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Tired of 1.9-2.0 60' times so I went for it at Little River Dragway Saturday and BAM! Broke the 37-yr-old 280Z stub axle on the driver side. I do not want to replace it with another stock piece. The shop my car is at has been trying to contact Modern Motorsports all week with no success. I saw that TechnoToyTuning *might* have an upgrade stub axle, but not sure. Does anyone know of other options or know of billet upgrades for sale elsewhere? I am currently uploading video of the breakage and will post eventually for those interested. It was actually my first ever successful burnout in a manual trans car and it wasn't even much of one. Thank you for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Try this vendor. He can supply the same CV adapters and billet stub axles (27-spline and 39-spline versions) that MMS does. Joe 818 350 6222 Here's his vendor thread (post #27 and on talk about the 39-spline stub axles): http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103581-billet-z31-cvcompanion-flange-adaptors/ Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Thanks so much! I would not have searched that link since I have the Q45 diff and custom adapters. I sent his Website link to the shop so we can get moving on this. The video is uploaded, but I need to trim it before posting the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) Np...Techno Toy Tuning's option is a little different. It allows you to run the Q45/Z32TT axles without adapters (they will rebuild them shorter), Q45/Z32TT hubs which are 32-spline, and Q45/Z32TT brake and e-brake components. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car If anything breaks, you can always get replacement parts at your local junkyard. Edited July 5, 2012 by mrcheeze36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 The chequered flag pieces are brilliant. USE ANTI-SEIZE when installing the new nuts Don't ask me how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Thank you very much for the pointers gentlemen. Here's a clip of the breakage. Just had a new dual-disk 1000hp-rated clutch put in so all the power got transferred back right away. 448rwhp Mustang dyno (~521 on a dynojet) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Probably broke due to the extra weight of your soda cup. Really, awesome video. Subscribed. Have you considered a line lock for your front brakes? Makes burn outs much more controlled. I'm really sorry your car is down. What tires you running? Best times/mph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Pretty anti-climactic. I was hoping to see flying body parts, smoke, flames, people running and screaming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 In all sincerity: Great looking car. Which side broke? From the video, it looks like you had wheel hop during your burn out and that the stub axle may have actally broken then. I'm going to watch that video over and over. I am pleased that it broke in such a way that the wheel didn't fall off and that the car could still be pushed, and that it didn't happen at the fast end of the track. Please tell us more about your setup, launch rpm and clutch release style: slip or drop, etc. Also, feel free to give me advice on my "Learning to drag race a a-car" thread in Motorsports Sub-Forum. Thanks for sharing your victories and trials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Parts ordered Friday so hopefully I'll be back on the road and track within the month! I'm pretty sure it broke at the line. That was my first successful burnout in a manual trans car with no coaching or pointers, just will and determination and picturing it in my mind. I was determined to get a decent 60' and rolling up to the line without much of a burnout wasn't getting it done. That's what I've been doing all along...just going around the waterbox and flooring it without standing on the brakes. This time I wanted to dump the clutch and immediately hit the brakes in order to try to heat the tires a little. My first actual attempt on the previous run off camera was OK, but I tried it again because I felt it wasn't enough and it died. Although it was my first, I don't think it broke at all due to a bad burnout and honestly I didn't notice wheel hop? I'll have to watch it again later. Seems like a pretty violent snap right at the line in my opinion and the camera shows it. Just one snap and that was it...no limbs broken or bloodshed lol I was on 235/60-15 Mickey Thompson ET Streets in the clip. I can tell if it didn't break it was going to be my best 60' BY FAR in any car. The burnouts you see on my YouTube channel were done with a driver mod...experienced and much lighter driver than me. Even then 1.95-2.10 60's due to freezing cold weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 (edited) Cool. I watched lots of your videos after seeing this one and honestly, there wasn't a decent tire-warming burn-out on any of them. Your car must be wicked powerful and you must be making lots of speed at the far end of the track, because all the wheelspin I see on your videos has to be killing your short game. I think you actually have a lot more racing experience than I have, so I'm truly learning along with you. I figured out my gopro this weekend and will hopefully have some new videos next week. If you go to my video, you will see what a controlled burn-out can be accomplished with a manual car with a line-lock system. Piece of cake - you gotta get one (line lock) up if you plan to keep drag racing-you will love it. It makes the burn-out and staging SO easy. I do my burnout in second gear and release my line lock button while still spinning so that I can regain traction progressively and do not whiplash my driveline. With the tires wet, I don't have to dump the clutch to get it all started. I burn until I hear my rpm drop, which means that my tires are starting to get sticky. When My tires are so sticky that when I load my car on the trailer to bring it home I bring half of the gravel from the loading area home with me! By using all four of your brakes to limit movement in the box, you are also putting extra strain on the driveline unless you have your rear brakes adjusted super loosely. I'm not sure if what I'm seeing on your video was wheel hop or just camera vibrations (you were in the car, so you would know better than I). But at one point, your car jumps to the side suddenly-I'm not sure what that was-it looks almost like you hit a pot hole between the burnout box and the staging lights. Was it your right stub or the left? From the video, I'm thinking it was the right?? I'm gonna keep leaving the line easily (3,000 or 4,000 rpm) until I get something to limit squat. Looks like your car squats pretty bad on launch, then spins a lot. With my slicks, I'm spinning zero, so hopefully I'm only challenging (yanking) the driveline once as I leave the line and then again for each shift. Hopefully my bias ply slicks are helping me to "yank" the driveline instead of "hammering" it. If we can get your tires hot safely, that will pretty much stop the spinning when you leave the line. Spinning or hopping is like a jack hammer to the driveline. Thanks for letting me learn thru this discussion. PS-just watched the video again. Watch your shifter: the hard vibration it does is wheel hop. Mine doesn't do that. Edited July 9, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Wow and I considered the burnouts my friend did pretty damn good. I know I was impressed as well as a couple people standing there to the side. Oh well there is always room for improvement. Update: ARP studs on backorder and just notified yesterday. Vendor ordered from Summit instead and e-mailed to update me! That is so cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 (edited) Here's a link to a line-lock assisted burn-out. You'll see it is pretty gentle but effective in warming up the hides. Edited July 22, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 The parts came in Thursday. They fit together and look NIIIICE...saw them Saturday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 Alright some progress to report! Here are some pics I uploaded... http://photobucket.com/280zStubs Driver side stub axle + 6-bolt companion flange is installed. I saw it at the shop today. Who knew CarQuest carried Genuine Nissan wheel bearings at 50% less than dealer? Fuel Injection Specialties machinist will be taking measurements to make another custom end cap...this one for the driver side CV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Custom-machined CV axle end caps, 1 on each end to reduce play...thanks to Fuel Injection Specialties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzzzz Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 (edited) Custom-machined CV axle end caps, 1 on each end to reduce play...thanks to Fuel Injection Specialties. Are those aluminum. If so the steel axles will chew them up. Edited August 14, 2012 by ozzzzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 The first one they did awhile back was steel, but as a matter of fact the machinist just told me yesterday that he used aluminum on the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzzzz Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 The first one they did awhile back was steel, but as a matter of fact the machinist just told me yesterday that he used aluminum on the rest. The axle floats between the CV joints on your set up? It will make contact with these endcap stops. The pictures I saw of the steel Modernmotorsports ones after some use were gouged up pretty good. Thats why I asked. I have a set on my r230 setup and I was concerned after seeing the pics of the used steel ones.Just food for thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAFantaZ Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Yes, it floats. I spoke to the machinist about this and he doesn't see it as a problem. He has 30+ yrs experience doing what he does. One side has steel caps and the other aluminum so we can check it at 50,000 miles and compare the wear. He said if it messes up before then, just take it apart and think of something else to solve the problem like thicker grease or steel contact patches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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