duragg Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Ugg, and the 9mm spacers to center the 31 rotors in the S12w calipers which just makes my stance problem worse... Must examine alternate methods of compliance... Precision grind 4.5mm from the caliper area and 4.5mm from the rotor mounting area...? Hmmm Back to the machine cave.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 (edited) Focusing on front struts now. Machined top hats for the .587" BZ3099 Mr2 insert. Need internal bump stops. Probably will install shock baffles to protect the shaft. Need spacers for me S12W / Z31 new brakes Need ball joints. Need LCA bushings, already pushed out old ones. Need TC rod bushing kit. Then fronts will be done and ready for fender cutting and ZG. * Please forgive me for uploading inappropriate image sizes. I thought I had resized my images, but failed. Edited November 3, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Ouch. Another $500 order from MSA for all the busings, tie-rods, some bearings, seals, spindle pin stuff, etc. Just got to turn the other way and type the Visa numbers faster... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Almost ready for the full swap: I need a little help on a couple questions: 1) Any reason NOT to load the rotors, calipers, bearings, Control arms and install as one unit? Versus installing the LCA, then Strut, then caliper, brake etc? 2) On a normal coilover install with 10" springs, cut per the STICKY will the springs always normally be compressed by the collar? If I accidentally become airborn, will the springs float loose for a moment, I worry about the bearing in the front falling out of its slot if they do. 3) Boots to protect the shock shaft? Or pointless? A few final items to acquire and the swap will be ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I like to install the strut housing, then build it up on the car - it gets hard to tighten things when you have one hand holding the strut and one hand working the wrench. Plus, that keeps the parts of the assembly lighter during the times when you have to lift it into place. You could put it in a vice, but then you have the vice rash to touch up. I can't see your photo (website is acting goofy for past 2 days), but you have to put a tire on or at least the brakes to torque the axle stub, etc. I can't recall how tall my springs are, but yeah, you don't want to get airborne. So far, in all my life, I've never gotten airborne in a car. However, one of my projects this winter is to make droop limiting straps to keep the springs from cocking on the shafts (I've had my coilovers for 10 years but never got to this until now), so it isn't that big of an issue. It can be a pain when you jack up the car and the springs, etc, fall down the shaft. You just have to be careful when you let it off the jacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Thanks all for the help. Some re-direct creature has impounded Hybridz for Explorer. Seems like installing the Stubs on the work bench I could vice the wheel flange and torque the nut prior to installing. Doesn't sound like there is any major problem doing it either way. Also sounds like my fears of flying off a speed bump and goofing up the spring position is unfounded. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Did a mockup of the rear struts and new Disks. Pressed, greased and torqued the new 27spline 280z style beefier stubs. Mounted brake adapter and the 280ZX caliper which was an easy fit, and lots of room in the new wheels too. It was a snap to get the giant breaker bar on the axle nut for the 180-230 ft lbs. I may have reefed on it a bit too much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Fronts from top down: Nut 5 washers to takeup the extra space of the BZ3099 Toyota struts Insulator with hole enlarged to the size of the Bz3099 threaded area. Bearing, repacked and pushed into insulator with a little RTV to keep it in place. Tophat Spring Bumpstup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I'm getting impatient for final install pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Me too! I have the fronts ready and the LCA with new BJs installed. Z31 vented disks and Yota calipers trimmed and ready. Rear 27 spline stubs, Zx calipers, new bushings and all ready. Waiting on 15/16 MC, zg flares and some other little things since everything is hinged on fitting in the 15X10s More tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) Today I started to liberate my spare rear control arms for buildup and began to cut the spindle pins to remove. Then I decided I wanted to remove the S/P bolts first and the lock pin, after I did that the pins vitrually fell out... ruined one perfect Spindle pin, but saved the other. Those outer CABs are going to be trickier. I have 4 spare LCAs to play with and 2 still on the car so one way or another I am getting them replaced. Big picture planning. #1) Cut and weld fenders to make space for the 15x10s. #2) Mock ZGs on fenders with the 15x10s and stock suspension. #3) Jack car, drain brakes, install 15/16 MC, remove stock BPV, install new APV. #4) Remove all brakes and suspension components, swap any last needed fasteners, install coilovers and new brakes. #5) Fab new lines as needed, install new Park Brake cable assembly, bleed and install wheels. #6) Set ride height and check placement of ZG flares. #7) Drive, finalize ride height, final install of ZG flares. #8) Do donuts Things I still need: * 15/16 Master Cylinder. * Brake line and couplers to fab what is needed for Proportioning valve. * Final decision on running 15x10s all around or finding similar smaller wheels in front. Edited November 17, 2012 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Started mocking ZG Flares today. I always (incorrectly) thought the ZG flares could be skewed up or down a bit to match the ride height. But today after testing placement of the ZGs it seems they really only properly sit in one place with relation to the body lines. So, new plan, Cut and place the ZGs and adjust the ride height to make the car look good. I think this will put the car much lower than I thought I wanted, but it will all work out. So many variables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Life.... Keeps interrupting my Coilover project. And the rear fender cutting and welding was mentally blocking me. So today I just cut the lip off, snipped back the outer part, sliced the inner, banged it together and made some sparkies... Tomorrow will do the other side (actually probably not with family still in town). Once both sides are done and cleaned up I will shoot seam sealer all over and move on.. I do believe I am a redneck, thank you. Had to keep cutting till I got into clea metal. There must have been 10 different shades of paint under the green.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Having a Z called ROPOS makes this job much easier. Its all a little ugly till its done, then it gets repainted and hides under flares so here goes. Sunday morning: 11:28am Die grinder with a 5" wheel and the first rough cut: 7 minutes later... Trimmed up and cleaned up now, ready for heating and beating. I F'd a bit around the top and didn't leave enough lip of the inner frame, I didn't want to cut up any higher... no worry. 30 minutes from start I was here. Started stitching and working the material up and around, tack and go. Welder was at around 17V and 108% If I recall. 40 minutes in since the start and making progress quicky. The hard part is just ahead of me where I screwed up the material. Worked past the thin spot by just tacking the inner and outer layers where they "V'd" together. One hour total time. Will seam-seal this weel and touch up any *really* ugly weld areas. Now the actual coilover swap can begin in ernest as follows: Swap the 15/16 Master Cylinder. Delete the stock proportioning valve and install adjustable willwood in its place. Remove and replace front coilovers, axles brakes and arms which are all built up and just need bushings and bolts. Rig, bleed, test brakes. Do donuts with new 15x10s. Final part is the custom flares and a fresh coat of rattle-rattle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Jacked. Drained. M/C removed. Front left strut assembly removed and new one installed. Hopefully a helper tomorrow and bust out the other 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Darn housework!! Today was gonna be my "big push" day.. instead I am cleaning windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 All four corners stripped and all 4 replacement assemblies installed. This part of the job is TOTAL cake once the struts are all built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Looks to me like you didn't cut the fenders high enough. Did you look at 240hoke's ZG thread in the FAQ section? Most of the pics are dead, but if memory serves he cut and then had to cut again. I did the same on my car. Cut the lips off, looked pretty similar to yours, then realized the tire would hit and had to cut a couple more inches out. Of course, it's more difficult to weld back together when you cut up higher too. If you want to figure it out, the easiest way is to take a spring off of a rear corner, bolt the wheel on and jack the control arm up. If the tire hits the fenderwell, you need to cut more. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares/ Die grinder with a 5" wheel and the first rough cut: 7 minutes later... 11-35-16_205.jpg Trimmed up and cleaned up now, ready for heating and beating. I F'd a bit around the top and didn't leave enough lip of the inner frame, I didn't want to cut up any higher... no worry. 30 minutes from start I was here. 11-58-23_775.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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