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JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. My impression is that you don't want the backing plate to cover the face of the rotor as that prevents the heat from dissipating as quickly, which is why my mine fit into the center of the hat. I'll leave it to Keith to comment on that. His setup was for a solid 240Z rotor with different considerations, but IIRC he moved on to E36s after he left the Z scene so I'm sure he'd have some other race cars to draw from.
  2. FWIW, I have a similar style bar and Cary and Richard suggested making boxed sheet arms for it. Those freakin arms are HEAVY. It's on my list of things to do. Idea is to cut an inch or two after the spline and weld the tube arms to that. I think it will be pretty easy to drop 10 lbs. Maybe more. Was surprised that my tubular bar with the solid ends was a couple lbs heavier than the 1" MSA solid bar I was using before.
  3. I made some a couple years ago and still haven't redone the feed tube into them, which interfered with the sway bar. Supposed to be on the schedule for this winter...
  4. I agree with you guys and think it's the pushing back that makes the urethane ones sag in the middle, not any pushing down. Likewise I had a fiberglass airdam with a rubber piece about 3" tall on it, called a Flex-dam. Made in CA in the 70s and 80s. Anyway a friend of mine snapped a pic on the front straight at Buttonwillow, which is not that fast, and the rubber was flapping up and letting a good amount of air under the car. Replaced with plastic lawn edging to fix. Whatever you do, test to make sure it works after you've done it.
  5. Can't really see what you're doing on the bottom, but also blocking off the entire area between the front valance and the rad support helps to minimize air that goes through the grill and then down under the car. I expect you're aware of this already.
  6. I assembled the suspension without springs, used a ratchet strap around the A arm to compress, then I think I measured from the hub to the fender.
  7. Looks like Onesight1 and I are late to the party, but I think the main thing is that you want the suspension to have as much bump travel as possible and simultaneously want the rear tires to not hit the insides of the fenderwells. If you line the flares up with the bodyline like most do, then you will not have enough clearance for the tire, particularly if you have taller tires or run the car lower, or both. Taller tires and lower ride height seems to be the thing to do these days. Mounting the flares high enough to allow for the tire to move means installing the ZGs at a pretty awkward he
  8. Why do you have to pull the hubs? Bracket goes all the way around? Just cut out the bottom section and bolt it on.
  9. Oh wait. You meant a skirt at the front of the splitter. I had that idea about 10 years ago and emailed Simon McBeath and he wrote me back and said don't. Also emailed Glenn Bunch with the road race Challenger, because he had pics of his on the track with a splitter with a dam on it, he gave it a thumbs down. I shared all of that in page 2 of this thread.
  10. Yes, I did run a skirt. I have it set up on a pivot on the back and was going to run cables in the front, but as it turned out it didn't allow for much movement when installed and there was some other problem I can't quite remember so I ended up using AL fuel line smashed on the ends to make struts for it. Passes the "stand on it" test. 1/2" birch. 3/4 would be really heavy. I just went to Home Depot and found a flexible white plastic that I think is used behind showers or something like that to waterproof. Easy to trim to fit. Have a small 1/2" AL angle section on the splitter, and then it
  11. Guessing he found it when he was searching for "splitter." FWIW I ended up making one out of plywood. Didn't want to do it from CF and then break it immediately. Kinda glad I did. It has rubbed once or twice. I've been autocrossing with a club that has 3 classes: FWD, AWD, and RWD. Since the rules are wide open I've been thinking again about doing diffusers and all of that. Have a couple other projects going though, so nothing planned for the immediate future.
  12. You can weld the skin. Just drill out all the spot welds and remove the old roof, weld the new skin in its place. Another option is to cut through the pillars and weld back together. There are differences in the 240 and 280 chassis. Not sure what if anything is different about the pillars. Should be dimensionally the same as the hatches, doors (some lock issues but size and shape the same), quarter windows, and windshields swap. I have a friend who built his roll cage this way, cut the pillars, did the cage, welded the roof back on. A lot of people were poo-pooing this at the time, but
  13. There used to be a good variety of bubble flares that weren't bolt on. MSA had a couple different varieties IIRC, I had some from a company called MAS, Jim Cook Racing had some, there were others. You should NOT buy from this guy, has had a terrible reputation for decades, but he still has the pictures stolen directly out of MSA's old catalog showing some of the bubble flares: http://showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html
  14. I think I figured out the turn part. You're just saying the MN is superior because it has the port at the same level and the valves lower. OK. Point taken, but again, you're starting with a head with smaller valves, so one might have a better port shape, the other has bigger ports and valves... ???
  15. I agree, it's good to keep hashing it out, although since switching to LS I don't care as much as I used to. It got pretty heated in those threads 20 years ago. I remember being particularly pissed off when Mack said something to the effect of "I can go half throttle and not have any pinging." LOL Here's a different angle: if it's not a race engine (at least a weekend warrior), then why bother bumping the compression up to the bleeding edge? If it is a race head, then why start with a head that has smaller valves and ports and liners when you could shave/shim and end up with something very
  16. I never bought the MN hype. Yeah, it has a small peanut chamber, but the ports and valves are smaller too and it has exhaust liners. If you really want that chamber, shaving a P90 seems to be in every way a better answer. I built an admittedly worse E31 that has less quench with about 11:1 and a bigger cam than most people run at .490/280, polished all the sharp edges in the chambers, etc. and needed 95 or 96 octane to prevent pinging. A bigger cam would have helped and I always tell people to go bigger when they start talking cams (stage 3 Schneider is not a good choice). Having been there
  17. No, sorry. Just convinced that the stock intake is restrictive and the stock turbo exhaust manifold has a T3 flange and is a crappy log manifold design.
  18. Turbo. An L at that power level will have a lifespan measured in hours. I've driven zredbaron's stroker with 300 bhp. It's a lot of fun. Also requires race gas and is fragile. By comparison, I have a 2L 4 cyl GTI with somewhere in the 280ish bhp range (based on the tune and mods) and I can drive it on pump gas, and I don't feel like it's in imminent danger of catastrophic failure. I would suggest if you turbo it that you ditch the entirety of the intake/exhaust systems and start over, new manifolds, bigger turbo, intercooler, tunable FI, get rid of flap door AFM, etc. If you were goi
  19. The key question to me is: ARE YOU DRAG RACING? If you are, then you need to go to something really strong, and as time goes on I think a solid axle is at least as good a choice. If it's a street driver I'm guessing the 4340 axles and a CV upgrade works. Problem is that's already a lot of money, for something that should "probably survive."
  20. I got a hold of Joe on FB, he did fold up Chequered Flag. Never met him in person but talked to him on the phone a handful of times and found him to be a good guy. Bummer at losing another good vendor.
  21. Joe from Chequered Flag is still on FB, so I just messaged him to find if he's still in business. Just 2 weeks ago people were wishing him luck racing that weekend so it would surprise me if he were out of business. I don't have the patience to go through that Super 8.8 thread, but that's a very strong differential. I got to the post where the guy was talking about 2000 hp axles and tuned out. Just look out for systems that end up 100 lbs heavier than they started. Some of the other attempts at 8.8s are just ridiculously heavy. Especially if you have 400 hp, the weight is a bad trade off.
  22. I had a NB and the surfboard seats suck. Worst part about the NB.
  23. Supposed to be a manual setting, but IME they never work quite right, and this one is no exception. Hit the rev limiter or hang close to it for a couple seconds and it will upshift just as you dive into the braking zone for the next corner. I'm pretty shocked at how much I enjoy driving it. FWD hatches never really appealed to me, but I wanted something that is fun and that I could run the kids around and go to the grocery store with. I've put a bunch of money into it already, but so far I am loving it.
  24. Another tip is to make the holes for the screws oversized a little bit. Apparently if they're tight you can crack it when it heats and cools. I used plastic spacers from mcmaster.com to get my hatch glass to sit flush.
  25. Jigsaw cuts Lexan like butter. Just don't peel the protective film off, and think about adding some masking tape around the lines too. It scratches so easily and that shoe on the jigsaw has to drag all over it. I buy my Lexan at tapplastics.com. Not sure if they have locations in SoCal, but there has to be someone in that area that sells 4x8 sheets. If you need smaller pieces it's cheaper on ebay than at TAP, FWIW.
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