stav2201 Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 After Recovering my old 75' 280z from a theft and me just being upset with the build i went, ive decided to get a new 280z and start over! My plan so far is to keep it stock for the most part.Im going to run stock Efi until i can figure out what type of engine build i want and going to swap over my coilovers from my old car onto this one. (If anyone wants to buy a silver 75' 280z with msa fender flares and Rota Rbr rims 17x9 let me know). I purchased the car from a Datsun guy in Sacramento, over all the car has no rust except for the drivers side floor panel. Here are some pics of what ive got done today. Heres what she looks like Sanded down all of the rust from the passenger side and sprayed it from getting any worse (It turned out the rust was not bad at all on the passenger side, just surface rust.) Rust was here but cut out This part is going to be difficult to fix, i have no idea how to weld but i do have a replacement floor panel for that specific area, any ideas on what i should do? The rust is sitting on top of the frame rails but never went through the frame rails, in fact the frame rails are in very good condition. Inside car Pretty clean engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stav2201 Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Here are some updates on the progress of my car This is the drivers side floor pan right below the seat bracket. Removed all the rivets from the door bumpers and welded them up. Removed all marker lights and welded metal behind the fenders and covered them up with bondo. Covering up all the welds with bondo and smoothing them out Began work on my drivers side door since it was really messed up, taking alot of sanding to get perfect. Kind of upset right now because i just scored a 1976 280z for 300 as a parts car with perfect doors and running engine. Did two days of sanding for nothing haha, if anyone is interested in 2 1975 280z doors let me know, they both open fine but the regulators are slightly off. (doors are maybe a 7 out of 10 as far as operation and condition). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddydonuts Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Wish I was good at body work, it's worse than my electrical skills. I like the interior color Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stav2201 Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 Here are some more updates Cut off some of those tie down bands for the wiring harness and put bondo over them, water blasted the engine bay after spraying a bunch of engine de-greaser in there as well. Here is the other side of the engine bay, planning in sanding it all down tomorrow and priming it if i have the time. Removed both fenders as well, broke all the studs off from headlight buckets that connect to the fenders and a few bolts broke off that connect to the engine bay, thank god i have that donor car so i can just use the front valance and headlight buckets from that. Seeing as how the donor shell has PERFECT floor pans i figured i would just cut out the other seat bracket, put in new metal, then use the brackets from the other car. Not sure though if i should just replace the entire floor pan or just use the seat brackets, would appreciate suggestions or any advice on this matter since my welding or fabricating skills are not the best, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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