logr Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I don't know what a bisquit style is. Can you enlighten me? I tried bing but no avail. A pic would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logr Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Thanks. SM cars must use the original mounting holes. Am I right in assuming I would drill new holes to use those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 The difference between the EMI Racing camber plates and the DP Racing camber plates is in the materials used - the design is identical. The EMI Pates are an upgrade (actually made by DP Racing for EMI) using 7075 aluminum, NHBB Astro COM10 spherical bearings, 316 stainless Torrington bearings, hardened spring steel bearing washers, 316 stainless bolts, etc. I ran a set on my 240Z for 10 years without having to replace anything, sold them to a fellow racer, and he ran them for another 5 years before he sold the car to another racer. As far as I know they are still going strong somewhere in the midwest. The DP Racing plates have also lasted a long time although I don't have any specific numbers from my own usage. I'm sure other folks on here can chime in with their experiences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 15 years is pretty damn impressive! Life has been a big concern of mine with things like these. Are they SM legal though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logr Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Do they use 2 original holes for mounting? Will they work with Bilsteins? Edited July 21, 2012 by logr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Just for clarity, from the rule book: E. Suspension components are unrestricted as long as they use theoriginal attachment points. For the purposes of this rule, “suspension†is defined as any item that is designed to move when a wheel is deflected vertically. This includes shocks and struts, control arms, steering knuckles, uprights, etc., but not tie rods, steering racks, and subframes. In addition, shock absorber/strut upper mounts are to be considered suspension components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logr Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 They bolt into 2 original holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 You asked about noise. In my car, they are totally silent except on gravel, then they are loud. You will hear a popping noise if your gland nut isn't tight or if the strut rod nut is not tight (both things that you would want to correct anyway). On the street, they are quiet, even on bridge abutments, center line reflectors, asphalt seams. I try to avoid potholes in general. As you can tell, I'm pretty pleased with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Question about the brake light on the dash. Mine comes on under heavy braking, but not light, normal, braking. More accurately it turns on when I release the pedal after a hard stop. It's my understanding that it comes on when there is a pressure difference between the front and rear circuits. Is this behavior normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Don't know. Are your reservoirs staying full? If so you should be ok. I think that light also comes on when the emergency brake handle moves some. Try disconnecting the e brake handle wire and see if that stops it. At least that will help isolate the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 That wire is under the passenger seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 I thought it was the differential switch under the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Try it. I think either or both of those can turn on the "brake" light on the dash. Pull the handle and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
24OZ Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Has anyone tried using any rubber insulators with these? I can imagine the ride will be harsher with these fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 So, the only real changes since the last event were the diff and adjusting/bleeding the brakes. The car feels very different now, it feels very planted under power and I was able to keep flat through some sections I no doubt would have had to lift on previously. I was about half a second quicker than the integra I mentioned earlier, where I was consistently 1-2sec slower previously, I'm not sure if he had a bad day, or I had a good day, but it sure seems promising. I also tried left foot braking today, I've been missing out, this is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 On our 78 my sons brake light acted like yours did. I switched the electronic floats in the MC from front to back and it went away. The light coming on like you described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 I don't think mine has electric floats, I'm pretty sure it has to do with the differential pressure switch. Some video from today, first autocross with the diff, and first try at left foot braking. Not too much 'scary' anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 The LSD is a definite need if you expect to be fast. After driving a modified C6 Corvette I found that while I had better power to weight ratio their braking and turn in was so far beyond my car it wasn't even a comparison. That's when I stepped up to bigger wheels and tires, granted I might have gone to the extreme. I also ran 440lb springs up front and 350lb rears with fatty sway bars front and rear. The Hankook RS-3 is a fantastic tire if you aren't ready to step up to R Compounds but whatever you run you need to try running something wider. Search for what you can find form the FP 240Z's they run near the top of the heap at a national level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Glad I could help. Much easier to coach than to "do. " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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