boyracer Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 So I am installing a 2005 Subaru R180 with Johnc's stub axles in my 72 240z. I removed the original diff only to find that it is in fact an open 3.54 R200, not the R180 I was expecting. So now, I am not sure if the mustache bar is from an R180 or an R200. It appears that the PO enlarged the rear mounting holes to fit the larger R200 bolts so that is leading me to believe it is an R180 bar. Also, as you can see, the bar was mounted in front (towards the engine) of the transverse mount bars and the top (floor) mounting bolts are behind the bar like an R180 should be. I can not find a top-view picture of either bar so I am not sure if the bar should be straight or have the two bends in it you can see in my pictures. Can anyone ID this one? Also, can someone confirm whether the R180 and R200 input flanges are interchangable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) The regular 280z R200 moustache bar has the double bend that I think I see in pic #2, but yeah, then why need to enlarge the bolt holes to or beyond 14mm ? The cross member between the hangers is the usual 280z curved R200 style, so he must have gotten that from a 280, so why not the bar too? Just test fit the subie diff. The only options you have to flip the M-bar the other way and see if the front diff mount bolts to the chassis in the right spot. If it does, you're good to go. Just had a thought. Maybe the holes were "worn" larger by loose M-bar nuts, rather then being intentionally drilled out like that. Any damage to the studs on the R200 diff? Might even be old - old damage. Just make sure your nuts are tight! (you know what I mean....) Edited July 19, 2012 by z240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 The regular 280z R200 moustache bar has the double bend that I think I see in pic #2, but yeah, then why need to enlarge the bolt holes to or beyond 14mm ? The cross member between the hangers is the usual 280z curved R200 style, so he must have gotten that from a 280, so why not the bar too? Just test fit the subie diff. The only options you have to flip the M-bar the other way and see if the front diff mount bolts to the chassis in the right spot. If it does, you're good to go. Just had a thought. Maybe the holes were "worn" larger by loose M-bar nuts, rather then being intentionally drilled out like that. Any damage to the studs on the R200 diff? Might even be old - old damage. Just make sure your nuts are tight! (you know what I mean....) The mustache bar looks like the R180 type, the way it bends gives it away. FWIW, the curved transverse link crossmember came about in '72. Looks like a PO did the R200 conversion with 240Z parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Just to confirm Leon's assertion: That is a 1972 and later R180 bar. I whipped out my JTR book (7th ed. page 6-5) and your picture #2 matches the books picture exactly. And all S30's after the diff-shift rearward had the curved rear crossmember. Might be worth your while to just pick up an R200 bar while you have everything apart. The enlarged holes in the bar you have look like they may have be done with a torch. Not unheard of since the bar is spring steel and tears up drill bits. If it was done with heat that bar is likely weakened in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Mustache bars are pretty cheap. Just buy the one you need. Post a parts needed ad and you'll have one in a few days. Most forum guys have a couple laying around. I just gave one to a friend. What year is your car? The mustache bar and the driveshaft have to be compatible. Early 240 bar with early driveshaft and late driveshaft with late bar. If you are wondering which diff to run: if you have a six cylinder I'd use the subi LSD. Just my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyracer Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 Great, thanks guys. If it is indeed an R180 bar then the Subie diff should go in easily. I will give it a shot and just hope everything lines up and the driveshaft is long enough. Now, just gotta find some rear diff bolts-any downside to just buying good 1-inch grade 7/8 hex bolts instead of the original all-thread bolts with nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Aluminum just can't take muck torque. The diff will shift some if the bolt holes are oversize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyracer Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 Problem solved! Filled holes and drilled out the right size, fits perfectly snug now. And got some $1.50 grade 10.9 bolts to replace the studs ($12 each at local Subaru stealership). So now hopefully everything will line up when I reinstall all this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyracer Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 AND...another problem. This whole time I was thinking that the input flange would just swap over from the R200 to the Subaru R180 but that's not the case. The splined part is too large on the R200 so I need an R180 input flange to match this. Anyone have one? Also posted in parts wanted. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108364-r180-input-flange/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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