Stock Ford 302 or Stock Chevy 350?

[pparaska]

I think Tomahawk hit this one on the head. Radiator and Waterpump alignment (vertical) make the mechanical fan and shroud a problem to fit. Those offset Chevy shrouds that the JTR book shows are getting hard to find.

 

Let me clarify what Jim was referring to with my car. It WAS NOT overheating. The (re-calibrated Autometer) temp gage was reading a bit higher than I liked (220-225) with a 195 thermostat installed. But the engine coolant wasn't actually that hot. The sensor was sitting in the superheated steam over the coolant, as the system had some air in it in the top of the intake manifold. After I worked that out (actually moving the heater valve control open and closed a few times) the problem went away. But the car never overheated.

 

So before you think the engine is overheating, make sure you have all the air out AND that the gage/sensor you have are reading correctly. I've seen Autometer sensor gages be off by 15-20 degrees - all four I've tested with a laboratory thermometer!

 

Fans - if a GOOD electric will do the job, why not just make it easy on yourself and the water pump shaft and bearings and use an electric? Be ready to make sure you do some heavy duty wiring and keep that alternator belt tight .

[gene_w]

I feel I must help defend electric fans. A couple people have touched on this, but seem to ignore it nonetheless. The electric fan does not run all the time! If your radiator and engine compartment is set up correctly, the fan is only necessary when sitting at a stop for a long period of time, as in traffic jams. I don't know about anybody else, but I really don't mind losing a HP or two while in rush hour traffic. Not an issue! Now, I'm still an inliner, but I've only had my electric fan kick on 2 or 3 times in the entire last year of driving it every single day, to and from work & school. And that's with the stock 280 radiator.

 

The only time I mind losing HP is when I'm racing. With the stock L6 in my car now, I have to sit perfectly still for probably 4 or 5 minutes before the engine temperature even starts to rise. After that amount of time, I expect the racing to have started! So when I need the power, the only thing I lose at all is just the weight of the fan and its wiring. No horsepower! Now with a mechanical fan, that's another story. I realize that the fan clutch saves a bit of horsepower over a direct coupling with the fan, but the fact is, you're having to drag that thing up to speed after each and every shift, whether you need the airflow or not. From my experience, the airflow is not needed as hopefully you are moving!

 

I do plan to do a 302 swap in the near future, so my overheating (or lack of) experience may very well change. But I don't plan on it. A couple weeks ago, after sticking a jack through the bottom radiator tank (long story), I swapped in a Griffin 26x19 radiator. I have yet to reinstall my electric fan and probably won't bother until I swap the engine. My reasoning: I was held up in traffic the other day because of a wreck and the temperature went only slightly above normal operating temperature for my car during the entire delay. The short bursts of movement between stops was sufficient to keep the stock L6 cool.

 

Just my $.02

 

Gene

[Dan Juday]

Gene, all excellent points. I was not attacking electric fans. I love electric fans. For heavens sake thats a pic of MY electric fan.

I just wanted to defend Jims remarks and point up the oft underestimated importantance of shrouds as Mike Kelley mentioned.

 

Each type has it's +'s & -'s. In a hybrid the electrics make things much simpler which is always big in my book.

 

Wow, this thread was gotten off topic a bit, eh?

[BLKMGK]

My point is that the gains from switching to an electric fan are dyno proven. Even when the hydraulic clutch is supposed to be freewheeling the silly thing ROBS power. An electric fan only works when needed and if you use a 2 speed fan you can run lesser cooling and hyper cooling only when it's needed.

 

Hrm, and I still say the Black Magic fans simply have a weak motor. They have a shroud after all but they seem to overheat any car they get put on. One of the Lightning vendors is trying to use one in one of their electric fan conversion kits in the stock shroud - it overheats. Haven't a few members here tried them and had problems?

[Guest Anonymous]

WTH, I will beat a dead horse. I go with the following: those use use electric fans;; refer to performance cars;;

F1, SSP, GT1,2,3, Nascar, Cart, IRL

Maserati

Ferarri

BMW

Mercedes

Lambourghini

Chevy

Ford

Chrysler

Actually I am not sure of all of this I just like electric fans, especially when they dont run.

[fl327]

doest the taurus fan use like 35amps?

i like electric fans, right now mines wired up to run all the time, pretty soon im gonna switch to

a dual 12" flexalite setup with a thermo switch

 

anyone ever see how the turbo zx radiator works with a v8??, that thing bolts right into a 70-78 car and its a better core radiator.

 

i think an efi 302HO ford is the cheapest efi motor you can hop up wit factory parts, ford is actively competing with the aftermarket and their prices are just as much or cheaper than aftermarket parts, and they are genuine ford parts, but then the only american motor i can see droping in my car is the GN motor or the Syclone 4.3 with boost and the 2004r, stompin.

[Guest Anonymous]

Ya, I have had a dilemma with this for quit some time now. I would love it if some one with ford 302-conversion experience would lend a hand with some CAD drawings fab numbers for me to mimic. I do lean towards the SBF conversion. but Chevy would be easer.

-Lorenzo (justin@boydoregon.com)