maybemark Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Is there a way to pull out the timing chain without removeing the whole motor? What is the easiest way of removing the chain. Stupid me, went ahead and overhalled my engine, and i did not line up the shiny link with the #1 on the sprocket at tdc. Any easy suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) Either pull the head or the camshaft, then you can put the crank at TDC and install the chain properly. All of that can be done with the engine in the car. Just be careful to not drop the crank key into the oil pan when you pull the damper to remove the front cover. Edited August 30, 2012 by SleeperZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Follow SleeperZ's advice if you have no idea of the position of the cam with regard to the crank so you don't land up with a valve hitting a piston. However, if you know they're close, but not more than a few teeth off, then do this: Don't forget to put the spacer down into the timing cover before you remove the cam gear!!!! With the crank turned so piston 1 is TDC and the chain off the cam gear, rotate the cam so that the little wedge shaped cut on the back of the cam gear lines up with the short line (dash) on the cam tower behind it. You can see this by looking from the front of the engine back at the cam gear looking through the holes in it. This will make more sense when you look at it on the engine. When you have the cam gear in the correct position, pull the gear off the cam, put the chain back onto the gear and re-attach the gear to the cam. Double check that the dash is still centered on the wedge, or at least pretty close to it depending on chain stretch, tolerances, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Good point, if timing is close enough that valve interference is not a concern, there is no need to remove the chain. The shiny link is only useful on a new build. Once the engine turns, that link is no longer useful, just line up the cam notch with the crank at TDC, just shift the links on the cam gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maybemark Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 thanks guys, I think i might have another problem also. I don't think i lined up the marks on my oil pump shaft, so, now I bring everything to tdc my number one piston on the rotor shows off. I pulled the pump, and repositioned the shaft several times and I got it to a point that the rotor is on #1, but my car still will not start. Gas and spark is not the problem. I show 42 lbs of gas, and a nice spark when I pull a plug. So, it's got to be a timing problem. A budy of mine told me about the pump shaft, but still no luck. Oh, by the way, this car is being managed by megasquirt\ any suggestgions thanks mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 You really haven't told us anything about how the engine management is set up and configured, so it's hard to make educated suggestions. Also, did the engine run with this configuration before the rebuild, or did you change things? We're not mind readers so you need to give us an idea of what's going on for us to help. One general suggestion: measure the timing with a timing light while cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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