ihiryu Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Hey guys, I'm excited just got my RB20 the other day, waiting on my oil pan to make it back from the one and only Pat1. I've got a few questions regarding A/C and cooling. I've read that the sway bar will have to get spaced out because of the A/C compressor bracket, has anyone else encountered this? And if so, what did they do about it? As far as A/C wiring goes, I've looked into my Chilton book, and it seems that the A/C is tied to the chassis harness, and does not interface the ECU like modern cars do. According from Chilton the A/C is turned on via switch, and it also powers the FICD which causes the idle to pick up. So I wonder if I can feed the wire from the FICD to the ECU of the RB20 to act as the idle up switch. I don't know if that wire is ground or power, but if I can figure out what the RB20 ecu wants to see I can convert polarities using a relay. Hopefully it doesn't and I can just tap the wire to it. ::WHEW:: The next question pertains to cooling, is the stock radiator adequate for cooling the RB? I wanted to order a radiator and fan combo, but my biggest fear is fitment. I think I may try stock radiator and the famous taurus fan, but I guess it'll all come down to how much space I have. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 The front sway bar and a/c tensioner may or may not interfere. It depends on your mounts. I have Rick Wong mounts and the adjust nut rubs the sway bar when its being loaded in a corner. Installing some 1/2" spacers on the sway bar mounts solves the problem, but if your really using the sway bar you may have to correct geometry of the sway bar by shortening the endlink mounts to the control arms. Aftermarket end links have a tube that can be shortened to resolve this. Its a geometry issue not a fitment issue with the endlinks. You will need to tie a signal wire from your A/C relay(low current side) into the wire that goes to the ecu so your ECU knows when to kick the idle up. Make sure your IAC is correctly adjusted as per the FSM for the skylines and it will work properly. Its a bit of wiring engineering to get it sorted out. Mine is wired up in my 260Z. The only reason it isnt working is I need 2 custom lines made for the A/C pump and my car was hit in Feb which has set me back significantly on all the little things. As far as the radiator goes it has been covered extensively here in this section. My preference has been the PRC option with the $40 Hayden fan controller and ebay $60 electric fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Thanks for the reply. So at this point, everything that I'm trying to do will have to be a "wait and see" type of deal. I'll be using stock mounts or volvo mounts with Pat1's oil pan. I'll go ahead and remove the sway bar and just see how it sits afterwards. Same thing with cooling, I'll just put on an electric fan, with some kind of controller and see if she'll overheat or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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