Atozone Tonine Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Recently bought my 9/71 240z and trying to clean up the mess of spliced wires, I somehow disconnected the fuel pump wire and don't know where to reconnect it. Im looking at the wiring diagram, and don't understand why it says B (Black wire), then it is also labeled as G (Green wire) closer to a 20amp fuse The wire from the fuel pump is black. Do I also need to put a fuse in the line somewhere? I attached the PDF - the diagram is on page 6. In the meantime, I found a couple wires that work, and am using one of them now to get power. I'm not sure how bad of an idea this is. FYI - i don't have a heater, AC, lighter, stereo... so I have several open connectors. thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Donovan_ Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I will attempt to help you as much as I can with this. It is hard to help exactly with you saying that there are sliced wires so it is hard for me to know what is hooked up properly or not. The black wire is the ground wire. It connects to almost everything back there. If you want you can just go ahead and ground that out somewhere or just connect it to another black wire in the area. The rear defogger, fuel gauge, rear lamp, and rear lamps are all connected to this same wire that has a body ground in the area as well as head up front for everything else. So ground out as you please. The green (which I think is actually green blue) wire is you hot wire. It leaves the fuel pump and meats with the fuel level switch at a four point square plug. From there it goes through a few junctions and eventually ends up at the Fuel pump relay. This is where you will want to test. Pull the plug and check this wire for continuity between it and the fuel pump. There should be 4 wires at this plug, the green (green/blue) a black white next to it, on the opposite side a White/Red and then either a yellow wire if it is auto or a black/yellow if manual. If there is no continuity there then just run a wire from you POS side of fuel pump right to there. Now things to know, The White/red that goes into your plug is the constant hot. The black yellow comes from the ignition from the Start position to give it power when cranking And the Black/white goes to another ignition relay. but this is basically your Hot in Run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Donovan_ Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 OK, so I was checking out the wrong diagram, sorry to pages open and I thought you were talking about 76 not a 71. Still though green wire is positive, and the other wire gets grounded. Here is something that will help you out on this. http://www.xenons30.com/files/1971%20FSM%20Supplement.pdf Check out xenon230.com for a lot of information. As for your car it is pretty simple, the green wire from the fuel pump just meets up with the black white wire from the ignition switch and just put a 20 amp fuse in there somewhere. Sorry if I confused but I hope I helped some. Let me know if you need any more assistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atozone Tonine Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 (edited) Thanks for your help. Sorry for the late reply, but I have been trying to figure this out all weekend. It is difficult to see the fuel pump (I don't have a jack at home yet), but as far as I can tell, it is the black wire that is connected, not the green wire for some reason. I see a green wire just hanging there, not attached to anything. Is it possible to reverse these and the pump would still work?? I will have the car on a lift this week for other reasons, so I can verify the wiring from the pump. As for where to connect in the front, The diagram says that there is a black wire coming from the fuse box (if I am reading it correctly) but I don't see any black wires. It is currently connected to a blue wire which seems to be working. Anyways, the other electrical issues I have are: the aftermarket ignition switch gets almost too hot to touch when I drive for more than 30-40 mins, so I'm a bit concerned about that my headlights, turn signals (on the dash) and brake lights just stopped working for some reason although my rear running lights are working. I will keep you updated on the progress. Edited October 15, 2012 by Atozone Tonine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutchdust Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Interesting you posted this. Being a '71 it should have a mechanical pump like my '72 had. But I too have noticed an unused pigtail back by the tank and wondered if that was actually for an electric pump. I discounted it just because the age of the car and electric pumps just weren't particularly common then. But if that is indeed what that pigtail is for, I will relocate my current Holley red pump to back around the mustache bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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