FricFrac Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Yes I've done all the head and manifold work myself. I've been reading on HybridZ here for three years before I dove into my first engine build. I like learning how stuff works then adapting that knowledge to my own applications. I can't find anyone that's Mega Squirted and turboed a Z22 yet (although I'm sure they are out there). Most guys turf the NAPS Z head but I think it will work well for a boosted application. We'll see I can only be better than a stock L16.... I hope.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Pretty much done with the head now. Lapped the valves in and hot tanked the head. There's one seat that has a nick in it we'll try to polish out then a quick clean and install the valves and cam. Had the old piston wrist pins pressed out and the new pistons and wrist pins installed. Sent that to the machinist which is the only machine work so far for a total of $62. Pistons are installed and started painting the block. One coat of primer over the old paint and a coat of semi gloss black engine enamel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 Fixed the last valve seat with the nick in it. All the valve springs and valves are re-installed. Spark plugs gaped and semi-indexed (picked the best of for the eight). Painted the head with high temp exhaust manifold paint to match the block. Ready for cam reinstall. The hot cam for the L28ET is the L28E NA cam. Hopefully the Z22 NA cam works well for a turbo application. Still undecided as to what turbo to run on this build. Probably will start with a T3 from an L28ET. I think a GT28 or GT30 would likely be a good final build turbo for this application. Big returns from a methanol injecton for the L series head and a boosted application - not so sure the hemi style head here will need the methanol as badly. Something to ponder for the future.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Cleaning out the garage (SLOOOOOWLY...) and found a scrap Z22 head - side by side of the exhaust ports: Edited December 23, 2012 by FricFrac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 So apparently when I was told to use the L20b ARP set on the Z22 the person was assuming I was building a LZ. The L20B studs are WAY too long for the Z22 with the stock head and they don't make a Z22 kit (or any NAPS Z kits for that matter). I think I've found a stud that will work. ARP sells these as a individual stud - M10 x1.25 x 1.50 x 109mm PN: AM 4.300-2LB so 10 of these, 10 washers and nuts should make a Z22 ARP head bolt kit Just talking with ARP to find out if they'll make a kit of these to buy direct from them or through their suppliers so I can get this thing together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 Picking away at the endless "little things" while I try to get the head studs squared away. Did some more porting and polishing on the exhaust manifold. I already matched the ports but I wanted to transistion and take some of the roughness of the casting out and round off any sharp edges going into the turbo flange. Cleaned it up and painted it satin black with some header paint to match the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 (edited) OK I've finally sourced the head bolts. My local parts place wanted 4x as much for the nuts, etc with a four to six week lead time. Ordered them from Regal at Northern Auto Parts for a fraction of what the local shop wanted and 7-10 days to get them in. Working on the turbo manifold a bit. Got a heavy blanking plate cut and had made a copper gasket and had it annealed to make it soft. I'll use these to block off the wategate flange on the turbo as I'll be using a stock T3 from a 280ZX with an internal wastegate. Got an old 280ZX turbo cast downpipe and hacked off the flange. Port matched it to the T3 outlet then tapered out for a mandrel bent 2 1/2" down pipe which I'll likely flare to 3". The turbo flange is a little rounded so it looks like there is a lip but it matches up perfectly. Edited February 1, 2013 by FricFrac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Fuel rail almost done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Looking good, I especially like the fuel rail brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Looks better polished and anodized red Under the sodium vapour lamps makes the colours look funny but you get the idea. My blue toolbox is in the background - you can see how the light from the blue reflects off the polished anozided part making it look purple (red + blue) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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