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FricFrac last won the day on March 26 2016

FricFrac had the most liked content!

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About FricFrac

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  • Birthday 09/13/1972

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    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    Z Cars - duh ;) R/C touring and pan car racing, Electronics, etc...

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  1. Buy matched injectors. Stock injectors can be out as much as 10% from each other (tolerance is +/- 5%). People tend to glaze over this critical piece of equipment. You could be running dangerously lean on one cylinder but have a moderate AFR reading since it only averages all six cylinders.
  2. Why are you running two injectors per cylinder? You might want to upgrade to a modern ECU. You'll probably have a hard time finding a Tuner that will work with that dinosaur A rear mounted intercooler is just complicating things and adding piping - you want to minimize it as much as possible....
  3. Use the stock tranny - it's pretty decent. If/when it fails the S13/S14 is probably the simplest/cost effective/available. The Z31 turbo/Z32 is one of the toughest Nissan trannies but it's more work to adapt
  4. Is it the plug for the automatic testing system module located under the dash?
  5. 81 is completely different - its CAS. You need a pull up resistor either inline or built into the MS unit itself
  6. I use Fair enough - let me rephrase that then: I use Mil Spec wiring (if you want the part numbers I can list them). That is Teflon coated and often silver plated (depending on the Mil Spec number of course) wiring. It is heat and chemical resistant and can carry up to twice the current of lower grade wiring of the same gauge. It is excellent for engine bays because it is virtually impervious to the effects of gas and oil - it will not become brittle and break when exposed to these conditions over time as do most other types of insulation. I'm an Electronics Engineering Technologist and worked for the Military for 15 years in electronics during which time I have built and repaired countless wiring harnesses and connectors according to Mil Specs. Base on the knowledge of those systems and my training I design my harnesses for maximum noise immunity BEFORE it ever makes it to the ECU. A lot of companies are happy to let the software take care of (most of) the errors produced by noise. The engine bay is not only a harsh environment physically but also electrically. There is a lot of noise induced into sensor lines. I use Mil Spec (again numbers provided if that has any use to anyone) shielded wiring for ALL sensors and a properly designed grounding system throughout the entire harness. I'm trained in Mil Spec soldering, connectorization, metrology, noise immunity, etc. Typically when someone says their harness is Mil Spec it just refers to the use of Mil Spec wiring and/or connectors NOT the above techniques which do produce a very high quality product. My products have been around for years - ask anyone who has one about the product and/or support and I'm sure you'll find that statement to be true. Hopefully that clears up any confusion.
  7. Hey guys - sorry about not being available but I am back making my high grade mil spec harnesses and plug and play systems (and I mean mil spec - not just the phrase people throw around in the automotive industry now adays ) If you have any questions feel free to ask or give me a call directly at 250-896-5930.
  8. Test layout for grommets. Installed Test fit - hog rings not installed yet Grommets with inserts Cleaning the glue gun can be a pain. Work smarter - not harder! Seat bottom panels starting to go together
  9. Now that I've got the main panel for the back of the seat done I'm going to do the seat. These are the two main panels and the majority of the work. My daughter and I decided on textured stripes to match the diamonds on the seat back. The angles are the same as the diamonds and the pleats will match up to the seat back. Test layout Precision fitment is critical here. Not sure if this is the way to do it but it looks sharp in the end. Kind of wrinkly from manhandling around the sewing machine. Some close ups to see the stitch work. Colour is washed out but more detailed shots. Rough idea of the main panels.
  10. So I start watching some YouTube videos so I can try and figure out how to do this and of course I decide to go with a blind stitch because it looks cool. Problem is that it works for one row of diamonds but the material starts to bunch up if you add another set top and bottom. Layout for blind stitch Too much puckering 😕 But a chance to see what the upper panel will look like on the seat Do over on the panel. Colour is just washed out with the camera and lighting. There is a problem with the stitch on the bottom RHS diamond which I have since fixed. Added a second row of top stitching.
  11. Now the fun part - time to get creative. My daughter wants to paint the car powder blue so the theme is mainly black with pink and blue for the interior. A blank slate. Vinyl on top glued to 1/2" foam then a bottom layer of fabric glued to the other side of the foam to make a vinyl/foam/fabric sandwich. Layout is done in chalk - it doesn't stain and is easily erasable. Just sharpen a stick of chalk on a piece of sandpaper to get a chisel edge to do fine lines. I haven't seen this anywhere but I thought I'd try it. Using a bamboo basket weave pattern embossed vinyl and glued diamonds onto the panel with contact cement. You need to be very precise with the cutting so a ruler and Olfa blade works very well. Before gluing down textured vinyl on base Panel sewn. You can see how the 1/2 foam sandwich makes nice pleats in the panel. Close up of the diamonds
  12. Label and pictures.... if you don't need them no problem but once you're scratching you head it's too late I tried ironing the leather to make a template but a lot of them have a coating similar to vinyl and it will shrink and pucker so I use weights from my barbells to cold press them as flat as possible. Once that's done I stapled them to some heavy cardboard to make templates.
  13. I won't put all the pictures I took here but I'll try and keep it as step by step as possible so you can see the process. Take lots of pictures as you take it apart. Sometimes there is something you need to go back as reference. In this picture you can see where the top stitch was done so that you replicate it when you sew it back together and it lays properly. Bottom of the seat - you can see where the hog rings attach the seat cover and hold it in place. On furniture you use staples into the frame to hold the fabric in place. On a car seat you use hog rings and wire in a pocket sewn into the cover. or a reinforcement of some sort like these plastic sew on strips I'm reusing the wires from whats left of the seat covers so I make sure they are labeled. You can make your own of course. It looks like they bend the ends back to keep it from poking through.
  14. Thought this might be a helpful reference for anyone wanting to redo their seats. The process is the same for any car seat. This is my first attempt at a car seat so I did a lot of reading and watching YouTube videos (Chechaflo is excellent). I've got a little bit of experience fixing up a couple of antique chairs so I thought I'd try my hand at some automotive upholstery. I bought an industrial sewing machine so I'm kind of committed now The plan is to do the interior on the 280ZX and 510 but thought I'd practice on my daughter's 240SX interior. The seats are BEAT! I can only make them better than what they are and that's not saying much - a piece of duct tape is a vast improvement On the "to do" upholstery list The 4dr 510 and future upholstery recipient So lets start with some before pictures. Like I said I can only improve on this
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