Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Hey everyone it is me, of course. Now, I am used to seeing 195 hp Honda Type R engines for almost $6000. This mens I have absolutely no idea how much a more powerful 350 engine goes for. I wanted to know if you guys could help me and let me know if places like EBAY are good for engines or not and I was hoping you could look at a few choices I think look good. Remember that I know nothing and my "Learn Chevy Engines Guide" and JTR manual have not come in the mail yet. So please be gentle on me... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596602647&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1650349747 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596894446&r=0&t=0 [ October 18, 2001: Message edited by: DPG HAMMER ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 A little too crazy but what about this.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596877192&r=0&t=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Uh, that second one is a one-sixth scale diecast model... The only problems with eBay are the fact that you're promising to pay a lot of money for something that you've never seen, and you're expected to pay for several hundred dollars worth of shipping if you're not near where the motor's being sold. Anything may look great in the photos but turn out to have an oil pan with a solid inch of metal shavings in it. Or you could just get a box full of bricks. You know. I've never had a problem with a bad seller on eBay, so don't be too scared. I'd rather have a competent machinist build me up a motor for more money than it would cost to buy a complete motor that I can't judge the quality of. Which is what I'm doing. I'm sort of in your boat. I don't know much about 350 motors, yet, so I had mine built by a great guy who helped me pick out parts that would go well together for my application. There are definitely guys here that have better reccommendations than I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 No it isn't. look at it. Diecast is a different brand like Chevy. It is more performance related.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 I've got to ask this - DPGHammer, are you for real? Your questions seem reasonable enough, but some of your replies seem like they are either jokes, or that you know absolutely nothing about cars. My theory is that you are the "Goatman" over here having some fun with us. If not, and you are legit, I apalogize for my comments. IF you are legit, you should either pay someone to do this engine swap, buy an already finished car, or wait until you can learn more about cars. [ October 19, 2001: Message edited by: Mike Brady ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 How does that Twilight Zone music go?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frank Rich Posted October 19, 2001 Share Posted October 19, 2001 Now Mike, you know that the hoof-in-mouthed one is not clever enough to find his way around eBay - I'm sure "Hammer" is just another eager newcomer looking for guidance. And if he's not, you have to admit that the "Diecast is a different brand, like Chevy. It is more performance related" remark is pretty hysterical once you think about it Never a dull moment at HybridZ - I REALLY love this board! "Lead me not into Temptation, I'm getting there just fine on my own!" Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 Mike Brady-I am legit. I was serious about the engines. The Diecast was a joke put in. Sorry, I didn't know that this board was so serious! I did read the "Goatman" threads and those were funny. I am not one of his followers. I am a little knowledgable with Japanese engines because I spend a lot of time at www.maxima.org (I have a 2000 Maxima). I always heard that American was crap and way below the technology norm. Now I am starting to see that this isn't the case. It is more of a different style than anything else. I was reading "Turbo Magazine" and I came across this http://www.turbomagazine.com/archives/features/0801_features02.shtml I had no idea these cars can look so good but then I got really excited to see some of the prices for a V8 that is extremely cheap compared to a turboed motor. I think I can learn to build a 350, but not a turbo. Too many problems with turbos I want to model my 240 Z after this one. So I am legit and so is the question, I need help and don't want to make any dumb decisions because I wasn't brave enough to ask the dumb questions first. (Here is another joke coming)-For the guys who might think that I could be another Goatman, I will put this: ~ next to the joke threads so that you understand. And by the way, no harm done, I have a great sense of humor and am very forgiving. I still love you guys!! p.s. are these engines (minus the Diecast one) good prices? I am trying to get a feel of what is a good deal and what is a rip-off. [ October 19, 2001: Message edited by: DPG HAMMER ] [ October 19, 2001: Message edited by: DPG HAMMER ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 You will get really excited when the JTR manual comes in! Heh, that book made me crazy for these cars and even though the pictures are very basic and not really great, they are descriptive and informative. You will enjoy the end product immensely. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 Hammer, Glad you're still here. A mild V8 in a Z is faster than most cars you can buy. A wild V8Z is faster than many modded cars. There's always something faster! I'd not spend much money on an engine that did not come from a vendor with a warranty. If I bought from a private individual, it'd have to be DIRT cheap, and then I'd be sweating. Call me paranoid, but crate engines from vendors are pretty inexpensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Thurem Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 The first one, well he puts it on kind of thick "high performance performance lifters". Could be legit, even though he only has one feedback. I would still be kind of weary though. The second one sounds like a legit engine builder, but it appears his add is more an advertisement than a real auction. His feedback though is horrible and I would refrain from doing buisness with this guy. I would do buisness like this locally and have a reputable (ie somebody you know, got a gonga deal on a solid motor) guy build me an engine. Or just get a crateengine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 Okay I know this is a broad question but please give me some examples of what a crate engine would cost. I still have no idea. Is this $1000 or more like $5000? What additional parts would I need to buy to make this turn besides a transmission. I mean are there extra wire hookups and so on? How much would these cost? I am sorry for all the posts, but when I find something that I really like, I obsess over it and try to take in as much as possible. I can barely sleep at night when I get excited thinking about the project actually taking part! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 You could start out with a $1400 mild crate 350 But add another $1000 to that to get it accessorized with intake, carb, harmonic damper, distributor, flywheel, starter, alternator, water pump, pulleys, brackets, headers. etc., etc., maybe $1500 or more if you get at all fancy. I think a fully dressed engine starts at around $3500. Then you need a trans - a TH350 auto (not advised - you need overdrive) is like $400 rebuilt. A 700R4 is like $700-$1000. T5 who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted October 20, 2001 Share Posted October 20, 2001 Hey dpg, Thats a very nice z at turbo mag. i think that you would be better of starting with a z with the v8 already in it and then make it what you want it to be. Most of the difficult stuff will be done and if you then want it faster, lower, cooler, reder, whatever, you can do it from a sound starting point. This is what i have done. I have done engine conversions before and found that it is far easyer to let someone else blow there money on setting it up. You will never get it back unless you are very talented with a welder and body work and then also have the right equipment. i dont mean to rain on your parade but think about it. It costs heaps to pay someone else to do it. happy hunting, Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 21, 2001 Share Posted October 21, 2001 The crate motors have been out a while, and some are coming in to be refreshed at this time. I have become concerned about Chevy's machining practices which heretofore has gone unmentioned in their literature regarding crate motors. I have found single rod throws undersized by .001 and .002., with a commensurately larger bearing to fit them. I have found one instance of a single piston having an oversized wrist pin. I have known for years that manufacturers have graded the piston bores, but I always assumed that the blueprint was followed from throw to throw and pin to pin. Had I not measured every crank throw, the simple polishing and refreshing of the bearings with a STD set of rod bearings (crank looked and mic'd out within spec)would have caused .003 plus rod bearing clearance one this one single rod throw! We had to match balance another rod just to finish the oversize wrist pin motor as it was a rebore as well. It would seem to me that such factory repairs to machining errors should be disclosed prior to making a decision to buy one of these crate motors. I am guessing that these motors were pulled from the normal assembly line when machining errors were spotted, and simply saved for "one off" fixes at a later date. Despite these fixes, the engines are all new components and live as long as any new motor available. The lesson I learned is to look carefully at all specs, they may not be what you anticipate them all to be. Buy your motor from a reputable machine shop in your area. Take them a high nickel/tin long block core and have them build it to your specs. Many good combinations are listed this week under the "list your specs" topic on this board. Good cores can be purchased from any automotive machine shop, or dismantle yard. Try to get a good running oil burner if you can. Skip the nasty rod thrown, broken crank cores. A complete long block 350 core in our area runs between $75 and $150. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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