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The racing was great.  This was race #1 and #2 of my Provisional license (4 races) and another 4 left after that as a Rookie.

The goal was to feel out the motor, stay out of trouble and get the card punched.  Plus not hurt the car too bad.

 

The Rebello motor is a monster!  Wow, from 4000 to 8000 RPM it just doesn't quit.  I was walking by other similar weight/power cars..   I suspect the Dyno they required me to use reads low.

 

Saturday race qualified near the back and got stuck behind an ST2 Vette (8:1 ratio, more power) but he was struggling in the turns, wouldn't let me by on the straights and locked his brakes at every entry.  So I just decided to chill out and wait for him to go off... but he didn't and soon I was "Pedal to the Metal" ... no brakes...  :(   So I coasted the rest of the race which terminated early in a Red Flag due to an incident.  DFL.  Notch one~!  :)

 

Sunday was warmer, lowered tire pressures, pulled 3 seconds off my qual time and was mid-pack.  The Grid lineup was true and most of the race was a congo line, but I had an embarrassing mechacnical failure that got me stuck in 2nd gear halfway through and I had to limp back to the pits.  This was probably good as it turned out I had Flu with a fever of 103 and wasn't feeling great.  Car is an easy fix, learned some good lessons and... Notch two!!

 

Next event is Chuckwalla in 3 weeks and we are bringing the "full configuration" this time with 275 Hoo Hoos and the rest of the horsepower I left on the table this past weekend.

 

The fastest cars of the weekend?  Unlimited Viper and Stock Car turniing 58s.   And Erik Davis' 1971 Porsche 911 with 225HP and 2200 pounds '3 wheeling' to LOW 59 second lap times~!  Wow.  It aint the car people  :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Great race at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway this past weekend with National Auto Sports Association (www.nasaaz.com)

Only 2 other competitors in my ST3 class (Renshaw's M3 and Davis' 911). Two of the fastest in any class..

 

Saturdays 35m sprint race, Jeremy's M3 broke and Erik's 911 was DQ (on site dyno too high at 232 vs 225!)

I got a "Meatball" on lap 9 for engine fire but it was just the poly motor mount too close to headers.

That made me Winner for all 100 points in ST3. A wins a win.

 

Sunday was my very first ever Checkered Flag! 8th overall and 2nd in class with some 1:59 laps.

My first time running CVR in ccw direction.

 

That completes my four required "Provisional" races without incident.

Up to now we've battled blown distributors, broken pressure plates, engine failure, brake failure and driver error lol.

 

BIG THANKS to my Team Manager Chris Dowers (2+2 owner) for saving my butt so many times.

We have a team name, but were told it was not good, yet it really fits...

 

Happy for us and HLS30-158249 of the "Special Needs Race Team"!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Installing those long wheel studs I always wanted.

Replacing the motor mount that caught on fire..

New rockers installed and cam re-dresssed  (Calmate' cam!!)

 

Next NASA ST3 race March 15 & 16 at WHP with the 275 Hoo-Hoos...  :)

 

Maybe the brakes will hold up this time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so next is Front Lower Control Arms.

  • Techno Toy Tuning look really strong @ steel.  For racing, jumping and bouncing sideways through the desert this is desirable.
  • Silvermine, AzZcar, Datsun Parts LLC and some others all look aluminum with potential weaker areas especially around the attachement of the T/C rod to the LCA. 
  • Not all are adjustable without removing bits / but that is a non-negotiable item, they have to be adjutable.

Thoughts?
Tj

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I love my TTT front LCAs-very happy.  Be sure to cut the outboard end off them (everything distal to the outboard ball joint bolts) to avoid digging into your rotor.  Keep an eye on your ball joint dust boot-somebody just had one melt when used in conjunction with AZC brake kit (the back spacing of that rotor is very close to the ball joint).

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I love my TTT front LCAs-very happy.  Be sure to cut the outboard end off them (everything distal to the outboard ball joint bolts) to avoid digging into your rotor.  Keep an eye on your ball joint dust boot-somebody just had one melt when used in conjunction with AZC brake kit (the back spacing of that rotor is very close to the ball joint).

 

I think that was me that melted a boot...

 

The TTT units are boxes of steel and I just think they look to be the strogest irrespective of weight.

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When the Rebello motor threw a rod on Sunday it cracked the oil pan in a few places.

I have the Arizona Zcar oil pan and I reached out to Dave at Arizona Z Car (http://www.arizonazcar.com/) for a new baffle cover and he offered to replace it at no cost.

I certainly didn't expect that.   Dave is a good and fair businessman. 

 

The cast aluminum pan itself will be repaired and live on..

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Both Dave at AZC, Joe at Chequered Flag Racing, and John at JCI really do it right. They answer their own phones, take questions and stand by their products in good and bad times. They aren't ever "hot and cold" like a lot of small special parts suppliers. We are lucky to have them supporting us. Poor old Ross at Modern Motorsports (RIP), Justin at Z-Force Productions, Blake from the long tube header group buy all got/get us cool parts but the service is so hit-or-miss. I wish old Ross had just told us he was sick. We were pretty hard on him, and he obviously had a valid excuse and as a community we pretty well crucified him on this forum in his last days.

 

I assume the rod broke from a fastener failure? You gonna lower your rpm threshold a little, or keep twisting her tight? I asked my computer tuner to raised rev limit and he refused and just put his hand on my shoulder and said "You may never thank me, but it is high enough,"

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/\ All the other bearings looked perfect, I suspect an assembly problem.

But Rebello is going to inspect and render a verdict - no doubt I caused it somehow.

 

Bearing failed, Bolts followed, Rod departed crank.

 

Going back to my original green motor and maybe drop some weight and run true slicks to stay in the hunt.

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Please tell us about you experiences with true slicks. I'd love to reduce my camber some up front. I run 3-degrees so in ready for autocross without having to set toe on a regular basis. 3-degrees looks kind of stupid on the street and the drag strip. But that's how I'm Rollin.

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