RebekahsZ Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I never really understood the role of the air correctors. Unfortunately, I never have really understood how a carburetor works! I'm kind of a plug and play hack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heroez Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 Its OK. I have gained a lot from you already and your feedback is valuable. I was just testing the waters on what I have been studying, at least in theory with that question. That is why I threw out the jetting figures. To discuss in theory, if it seems within reason to work with the motor. I just want to be sure I dont mess up, damage the carbs or my engine, or otherwise have a bad outcome. The more things seem correct, I feel like the risk of a bad outcome is reduced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 The only bad thing that can happen is to put your hand in the fan or your tongue on the distributor. Keep a fire extinguisher handy and don't run air filters till it is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heroez Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 This may sound crazy but I am making a choice on how to run the fuel line by the number of hose clamps. Each carb has the single fuel inlet as of now. Using 3 T shaped fittings has the most hose clamps, more potential for leaks. Swapping in the dual fuel inlet part where the carbs are bridged together gives the least amount of hose clamps, beating out a triple fuel rail by 2, T connections by 3. The dual fuel inlets are less than half the price of a triple fuel rail, and twice as much as three T fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 You can get banjo fittings that have an inlet and an outlet. That let's you basically make a fuel log with the carbs plumbed in series. Remember the needle valves just sip from your fuel supply line as needed to keep the float bowls full so the configuration of the fuel supply system is not critical. I ran both with and without return lines-it doesn't matter. Dead-heading the fuel lines didn't seem to hurt my fuel pump. Crap in the fuel tank will ruin your life. Be sure to run a fuel filter that you can see into ( I like the stock plastic one but some are made of clearer plastic than others). I also recommend t-ing in a gauge to help with trouble shooting in the future. The stock fuel pump makes just the right fuel pressure and volume so you don't need a regulator if you are trying to keep it simple, you can save a fuel clamps and bucks there. Your leaks if you have any, will come from flooded carbs, fuel standoff, wet backfires out the float bowl vents and maybe the accelerator pumps. I was thinking about somehow venting the floats to a little puke bottle just to keep the engine bay clean but I never got to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heroez Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 Ok cool. Now the exhaust. Do you think going up to a 2.5 exhaust for good measure is in balance with the 40s? With 45s or 50s its a no brainer to go bigger. And is it necessary for a propper system to have a header? I have read that the mixture can hover in the mouth of the carb from an exhaust pulse. The long tube header has a scavenging effect that corrects this. Im not a big fan of the noise and heat of a header. Will a stock L28 Exhaust manifold be OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 The stock z motor makes 1hp per cubic inch. That means that the intake and exhaust are pretty well maximized right out of the box. Honestly, you will be doing well to make your new carbs function AS WELL as the stock SUs. I would base my exhaust decisions on what you feel is "coolest", not any performance concepts. Since the intake and exhaust share the same gasket, you will have some need to trim the flange on either the intake, exhaust (or both) and you may need some custom washers if the flanges are different thicknesses. I think the "Clifford" header is the best aftermarket header if you can find one. Hooker made a clone. If you are a 6-into one the MSA header is your only option. The pacesetter is ok as a 3-2-1 header but it hangs low and makes your feet hot because it gets close to the floor pan. The Nissan Motorsport header is probably the best with actual science behind it but it is a true race header and is super super thin metal to keep it light. Get ceramic because it looks best. Go 2-1/2 on the tail pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heroez Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 Hmm. I suppose I would rather stick with the L28 exhaust manifold. I kinda want to do a 'before' dyno and use that to compare that to after the dellortos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 I'm just sharing an opinion. You should do exactly what you want to do. I would make a big heat shield under your carbs. That will make your exhaust manifold almost invisible so what kind of exhaust you have won't matter much visually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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