duragg Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 What are you going to do for tires on those rollers? Its hard enough for me finding suitable tires for my 15x10s. I think there is a size the Countache (sp) guys use, but not cheap. Maybe pure race tires are easier to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 You're right; race tires are easy to find. Right now I have Hoosier FA rears on there, there are Avon and Goodyear and Yokohamas as well. There are bias ply tires for asphalt racers as well, but they're a little taller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Suppose it's time to update this. Set this aside for the last few years, back at it now. Pulled all the foam off and chucked it in the garbage. Wasn't working and was making a HUGE mess when I tried to shape it. tube80z suggested fleecing the front end, which is pulling fleece (like sweatshirt material) over a frame and then glassing that. I thought that sounded a hell of a lot easier, so that's what I did. Since the last post I cut the frame rails in front and built a front end frame that bolts to the ends of the stockers and I laid the rad down flat and built a duct to feed air into it. When I tried to fleece around the corners, the fleece wouldn't stay straight, so I used packing tape across the frame and then laid the fleece on top of that. Then I brushed some epoxy right onto the fleece to make it a little bit stiff, and used a couple layers of 8oz E glass over that. The E glass wasn't cutting it. Wasn't very stiff at all, so I went to TAP plastics and got some Knytex. Knytex is 3 layers of fiberglass in one, two 45 degree weaves and a mat layer behind that. It's much heavier and thicker. Laid one layer of Knytex across the front and figured it was going to be strong enough. Then I started in on the flares again. Made a .25" thick wire frame for each side. Just measured each piece again and again, held the piece for one side up against the piece for the other side to make sure I had the shape the same. I can deal with a little assymetry but didn't want it to look really bad. Measured quite a few times, then tacked the steel frame to the front frame and the body. Put packing tape across the frame and then tried drywall mud on top of some packing paper. The mud was too thick and wouldn't dry. Also cracked a lot. Tried some 2 part expanding polyurethane foam, planning to shave it to the right dimension and then figured I'd lay the fiberglass straight onto that. The foam was too tall, I couldn't sand it low enough, so had to pull it all off and wrap the frame underneath instead of on top. Foamed again, had it just about exactly right, then the next day when I went out the foam had shrunk. I think I messed up the mix of the 2 parts and had too much foaming agent and not enough hardener. Went back to the mud. Laid the mud on top of the foam so that it didn't have to be as thick, and got a better result. Got the pass side pretty well done today. Still need to finish up the driver's side, waiting for more mud to dry so I can sand the final shape. Then I will lay one layer of Knytex over the fender to meet up with the airdam part. After that, I'll lay a final layer right over everything. Then I can cut the fenders away from the front to separate later. The idea is that by having it all be one piece the lines will match up better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Damn, that looks great, Jon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Thanks Keith. Especially after having the blue foam experiment fail so completely, I'm pretty impressed with the result too. A little more mud on the driver's side today, was hoping to lay the glass today. Looks like tomorrow might be the big day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Here is the (hopefully) last layer of Knytex ready to be wetted out. Got some thicker 24oz/yard stuff this time, I think this will do it. Wetted this morning, will have to have a look tomorrow and see what needs fixing, etc. Not sure what comes next. Glazing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Hmmmmm..... Looking good to me. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I saw your last video on YouTube, it sounds (and looks) beastly! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 More. Pulled the fiberglass off of the buck. I waxed the crap out of it but it didn't come off very easily. Had to basically break apart the drywall and foam to get it off, then had to scrape and wire brush a lot of drywall off of the underside. Pulled it outside and washed it off with soap and water to get rid of the amine blush. Next I think it dzus fasteners, little bit of filler here and there, and a skim coat to get rid of the fiberglass weave pattern. I halfway thought about leaving it as one piece, but it is really difficult to get on and off like this, so I will cut the fenders away from the front. Need to figure out how to attach them on the car now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Looks good Jon. Talk about a widebody! You can probably weld some Dzus fastener tabs to the metal frame to hold everything on, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Thanks. Got tabs welded the the front frame already. Will need to figure out some areas to put dzuses on the back part of the fender. The splitter is a bit wider than the dam (because there will be flaps in front of the tires), and it measures .5" wider than a C5 Z06. It's very wide compared to stock, but it's not so ridiculously wide that it won't be able to go through a slalom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Getting it on and off the trailer too. I remember the challenges getting this car on and off the trailer at ZCON 2010: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 I've got a couple ideas about getting it on the trailer. I have a tilt trailer, so essentially a 17' ramp. Wish I had a rollback, but this one is still pretty good, plus I don't have a g-nose. Maybe it just won't be an issue. If it is, I have the splitter set up to pivot, so it might just drag on and off the trailer. If both of those ideas don't pan out, then tube80z had a pretty good idea. Basically unhook the droop limiters, jack up the front end, and put a spacer under the spring. Was thinking I might be able to get some sprinkler pipe and cut it so that I can just barely get it onto the strut housing. 2" should be enough. Will have my tie downs protruding front and rear and I'll just hook straight to them rather than trying to put bonnets over a 14" wide tire or trying to get to the control arms on a car that is super low to the ground... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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