Just another SR20DET 240Z build... not 56k friendly (if that still exists)

[Big Ben]

I agree with the limited tuner market for the Nismotronic, however most tuners can adapt to different programs, especially if you take it to a good one. The new software release enables the ECU to eliminate the MAF and run a MAP sensor. As well as do boost by gear, launch control and a host of other options. You also can hook your wide band into the ECU, just like an AEM. This is also not a piggy back unit. It is an actual daughter board that is installed into the ECU and there are no engine harnesses to be cut and what not. So my statement about having all of the capabilities is somewhat accurate. 

 

As far as the rocker arm stoppers go..... I have seen this same topic discussed multiple times. Having owned SR(NA, DET's and VE's) powered cars since 2000, I have seen both sides of that fence. Yes it will prevent them from shooting out, but I have seen them cause serious valve train issues. Just a word of warning is all. What you should do to prevent this, is just swap a VE head on there and you no longer have to worry about the RAS! 

 

I really liked my 2871r on my last SR.  I "upgraded" to a GT35r and wished I didn't. Granted the 2871 couldn't get my to my 500+ whp goal which is what I was shooting for, but it was still an awesome performing turbo. That is why I said what I did about 550's. I had 72lb injectors on my car with my 2871 and at 20 lbs on the 2871, they were starting to get stretched. 

[CasperIV]

Yeah, power goals are typically what ruin cars. I know I have ruined several cars balance with too much power simply because I wanted to say it had x power. My autocross 240Z that was routinely won local events did far better at 200HP NA than any higher power configuration. This car on boost will most certainly never win class due to the constant struggle between traction and boost... not to mention that due to the engine swap it will be against fully prep cars most likely. That's why I think I'll keep my goals to making this one a well balanced driver. Somewhere between 300 and 400 whp is probably where the limit will end up, but I'll build for more to avoid breakage.

 

I am planning to move to the VE head if I end up going down the Full Race path, especially if I end up going top mount with something like an EFR 7670 twin scroll (I don't want to go too big because even the over sized EFRs will lag). The flow alone on the VE would be worth it even without all the extra perks. The weak point of the oil system would be the next concern for me with that much money into the engine and accessories, so I think I would really like to move to a dry sump system (either name brand like Mazworx or a DIY). That way I would never have to worry about the system having one of the all too common SR killing starvation moments (although it should be unlikely with my increased oil volume, upgraded pickup, and better pan). If all these changes end up in the pipe line I will just drive the car for the year, get my suspension and drive train dialed in the way I want, then come back and pull the engine and do all the work. At that point I won't really care if the RAS caused any minor issues because I'll be replacing the whole head. If I don't go VE I will be doing a whole head rebuild and machining anyway, so I can address issues at that time.

 

Have you used one of the ISIS intake manifolds before? I have been hearing that they are just as good as the Greddy's as far as durability and require very little cleanup/modification. If that is the case, I think I may toss $200 at one to see how it works out... at a quarter the price it's hard to not just spend a couple hours cleaning up the casting/adjusting mounts. I would be replacing it if I go VE within a year and probably moving to be bigger TB setup at the same time, so the price point is just that much more appealing.

 

As far as tuning systems goes, anything can be learned and tuned, but why be the car someone learns on? The AEM will give more accurate tuning RPM band wise, some more features, and be a self contained unit. I may still decide to go with Haltech for even more tuning ability, but I doubt I will decided I want less control. I think this time I will actually have the AEM handle boost control as well. Just feeding wide band readings in is fine when you are tuning for a weekend race car or extra toy, but I like my vehicles like this one to be ready to drive 2,000 miles, race for fun, and drive home without any more worry than I would have with an OEM. When I come back to making my next car for experimentation/abuse I think I may go the Nismotronic route. Do they only tune in 500 rpm increments or can you get down to the 100 rpm level? I remember the last time I looked into them I think the big negative was the detail at which you could dig in the map that made me shy away.

Edited June 18, 2013 by CasperIV

[CasperIV]

As a quick update the engine clean up has begun. It appears the engine modifications/upgrades were done correctly which is a good sign. The clutch is an ACT performance upgrade which is in good shape. The flywheel appears to be OEM, but in good shape, so it will get a resurface. As soon as I get a chance I will get some good pics of the Circuit Sports oil pan... the quality appears to be excellent and it looks like it will be a nice upgrade.

 

Edited June 19, 2013 by CasperIV

[CasperIV]

Just another teaser update from the body shop...

[CasperIV]

Well I ordered an ISIS intake manifold to try out and an eccentric throttle wheel for it. We will soon see what the quality is like, hopefully it just needs threading cleaned up and maybe slight adjustments. I also went back and updated my parts list now that it has changed.

 

I already received my Circuit Sports stainless oil pan. It certainly got the thumbs up from all of us, here are a few pics:

Edited June 27, 2013 by CasperIV

[mr jdm]

As far as tuning systems goes, anything can be learned and tuned, but why be the car someone learns on? The AEM will give more accurate tuning RPM band wise, some more features, and be a self contained unit.

Not sure where you got your statement from but Aem is 16x16 maps IIRC

Haltech has had 32x32 maps since the e8. I have it on my Z. If a tuner can tune AEM, then can tune a haltech.

 

 

Also, AEM has had NOTHING but problems reading the Nissan Factory CAS. You even have to install their own disc in. Haltech reads the factory disc.

Haltech is a better system. I would even take an out dated E8 over a series 2 AEM

[CasperIV]

I like Haltech, I was just thinking I would try AEM EMS2 this time around. The Haltech Sport 1000 is the closest comparable price wise to the AEM EMS2 and is on my list to look at when I get closer to placing an order. I was planning to use the AEM disc, but using factory might be nice. The price difference is negligible, but I would be dealing with the patch loom again (I think). The AEM 17x21 (LoadxRPM 3D) map size is actually good from what I have seen, the Haltech we mostly filled more data for the mapping sake rather than tune (but it did make me feel better having the detail).

 

I don't know, I may end up doing a 180 and going back to Haltech. This time around whichever I choose, I want to use the EMS to control a boost solenoid rather than a separate EBC.

 

Here's a fresh set of pics with the flares on the car:

Edited July 3, 2013 by CasperIV

[CasperIV]

Just a few more pics of the car after it was primed and the engine bay was receiving paint. Hopefully I'll post a few pics soon with the engine in place (then we will finish paint... we voted to not move the engine/transmission across fresh paint).

 

[cjack300zx]

Very cool build. How does the circuit sport oil pan fit? Does it sit a lot lower than the sr OEM oil pan and is there plenty of room between pan and the crossmember? Thinking about running the same oil pan here

[Dat Z Sun]

build looks great!, love the zero rust motivation!

 

and does the sr use the original tranny mount and doe it sit behind the subframe?

[CasperIV]

Very cool build. How does the circuit sport oil pan fit? Does it sit a lot lower than the sr OEM oil pan and is there plenty of room between pan and the crossmember? Thinking about running the same oil pan here

 

It actually fits really well. I will post some pictures once we have everything back together. Paint was delayed due to work/other projects, but I have a bunch of pics to post today. The quality is excellent on the pan.

 

build looks great!, love the zero rust motivation!

 

and does the sr use the original tranny mount and doe it sit behind the subframe?

 

I used new mounts, but the original mount holes. The new mount is just a simple bar that has a bushing block on top for the end of the transmission to rest on, then bolts up into the original mount holes in the body. There are two mount styles depending on the years. Some cars had mounting bolts running veritcally, some had bolts running horizontally. Here are pics of each (I have a 73 so there is overlap and I got the wrong one the first time):

[CasperIV]

Sorry for the long delay. My virus scanner kept blocking me from coming to Hybrid Z and I was so busy with work I took it as a sign that I should be doing something else. Here are some more update pics of the build. I decided to paint it white again, but we will be doing a large center stripe with two narrow stripes to each side. Ed Hubbs will be airbrushing some subtle Asian themed scene down the stripe using the similar methods that you would for ghost flames, then the whole car will get hit with another House of Kolor Crystal coat to make it all pop.

 

The engine valve cover will be getting painted after we set the engine. We don't want to worry about scratching it with the chains while we are dropping it in.

 

Edited November 5, 2013 by CasperIV

[Big Ben]

Nice progress man. 

[Yep4doors]

What are you doing for fuel delievery? This question is plaguing me currently and haven't really found a set in stone response.

[CasperIV]

What are you doing for fuel delievery? This question is plaguing me currently and haven't really found a set in stone response.

 

What part of fuel delivery? Are you talking about tank and pump, lines, or under the hood? We decided to fabricate in a Z32 300ZX fuel tank, and use the OEM Z32 TT fuel pump. We are trying, not sure if it will work yet or not, to use the stock hard fuel line to the engine bay, another feed line as the return line (so they are equal sizes), and just a decent FPR at the front. If it doesn't work out, we will start tweaking things. My biggest concern was getting enough fuel forward, at a good pressure, and getting it back out since the old line sizes were for carbs not FI.

 

The car got hung up in paint. The guy doing the work had some personal problems that set him back on his schedule, but hopefully I will be getting more updates posted soon. We ended up having to respray the undercoating to fix some overspray and other issues from body work, so we did that right before we set the engine and transmission, bagged it, and sent it off for final paint.

 

Edited February 14, 2014 by CasperIV

[Big Ben]

Seems like body guys are all the same...

DId want to go the swirl pot option? A good lift pump to a swirl pot and then a good high pressure pump should to the trick too. Nice progress! 

[CasperIV]

We actually just decided after looking at the changes to get the Z32 tank to fit it would be much easier to use a 240SX tank. It actually ends up sitting nearly in the perfect position and seems to line up with the factory strap positions. The car should be coming back from the other shop next week so we can get back to fitting things. If all goes well, the 240SX tank would let us convert the spare tire well into a small tool box area, gain a few gallons of tank volume, and use the stock 240SX fuel pump assembly (or upgrade to whatever solution we want).

[logr]

If your stock tank is good, it's not that difficult to put the stock sx sump, pump and mounting ring in it. You would need to shorten the pump mount a bit but it worked out fine on mine. I left the stock gauge in too. Just a thought.

[CasperIV]

There are a lot of little benefits to a more modern tank, and I'm hoping to be able to avoid needing a surge tank (although the new box area replacing the tire well would work quite well). I am also going to gain a fair amount of room to access the diff with the tank in place. I'll post some pics when we get back to working on it.

 

The plans are always in flux as we just pick through the parts around the shop and see what fits where the best and what makes the most sense for the rest of the designs.

[CasperIV]

Mini-update: Just a few pics when the car came back from paint. Unfortunately you can't see all the sparkle in the paint in these pictures, but it's amazing. Later I will get some video and high quality pics.

 

Edited May 15, 2014 by CasperIV