Naptown Dave Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Finally got back home from Georgia and got started. Started with the front suspension, painting and replacing worn/damaged parts and installing Toyota calipers and repacked the bearings. There is a mess 'o stuff in my garage I wanted to get my suspension back in so I could move the car a little to help have more clearance for the engine hoist so I started on the HLSD. I took my open diff to a trans shop to see if they could pull the bearings without damaging them, they gave it half a try and told me they couldn't do it with out damaging the cages, so off to Harbor Fright for a bearing puller. I got the passengers side of with no problem and started on the drivers side, it started off so to I ran the OBX unit inside to put in the freezer to try to help with reinstallation. The puller must have slipped and damaged the cage when I was away. New bearings ordered, 5 days out. I neglected to get the clutch bleeder from speedway so I just bolted the engine and trans together. I'm going to have to pull the engine after any way to clean up the heads and install the cam so the engine will be on a stand Installed the front crossmember and built a lifting bar for the engine and transmission. The lifting bar worked out pretty well, turned one way it hung the engine and trans at a good angle to slip into the bay and then turned 180 degrees it lifted it level. Placed the engine/trans in the car and spent a fair amount of time aligning the engine to the diff, I had string lines, levels,. I used the old trans mount from the Datsun, cutting it in half and boxing it in with 2 X 1/8" flat. I got started on the trans crossmember and should finish that today. I'll have to throw the shifter and drivers seat it and make some engine noises and bang out some speed shifts. I think I may have a cracked oil pan, will pull it and check it and weld it up at work tomorrow if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 When your ready for the drive shaft i have the one from my car still and the 300zx turbo axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Yeah I may be interested, I'll measure from the tailshaft housing to the input flange on the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 When your ready for the drive shaft i have the one from my car still and the 300zx turbo axles. Looks like 25 3/8" from the end of the tailshaft to the input flange. PM me if you think it would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Should have it back tomorrow ill measure and and let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 center cap to center cap is 21". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 On the u joints? Of course I pulled the motor /trans yesterday to weld in my mounts and clean up the engine bay...I'll take a look tomorrow, I'm sure I can figure out what the spacing is. What would you be looking for for the shaft and cv's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Looks like 19 7/8" but I'll verify that by the end of the week when I get the drivetrain back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 CV's are good but 1 is missing an end cap any cv shop should be able to get the cap. My measurement on the drive shaft is center of u joint cap to center of u joint cap plus it has the flange to bolt on to the r200 diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 I haven't updated for a little bit buy have been making slow progress. Recieved my diff output bearings and completed the OBX installation. I put the diff in the freezer for a while to shrink it a little to help get the bearings on and then heated the bearings with a heat gun until they were hot to the touch (with bare hands). Two light taps with a 12oz hammer and a socket that fit the inner race and they dropped right on. I had a little more work setting the backlash, the new diff was really tight getting in and only had about .001" backlash. I measured the right and left shims and found they were about .006" different so I swapped the sides and carefully sanded the now left hand side, this resulted in .008" backlash at the tip of the ring gear just a little more than the .006" the open diff had. The OBX preload ended up at the max tolerance, I assume that will wear in a little.. I pulled the engine back out to weld in the mounts and clean up and paint the bay and make a new battery box. I realized that I had pulled out the steering rod before placing the mounts so of course it was hitting the drivers side mount! I spent a little time grinding the mount to fit the rod in and then reinforced the mount with some .75" pipe and .125" steel, back in business! With the motor out I installed new clutch and brake masters and replaced the brake booster. I'll route the brake lines once I get my headers built. I got a pilot bearing for the T56 from Summit that listed the LS1 as an application. It turned out the bearing was for an LS3 and wouldn't allow my tranny to mate with the bell all the way. This is my first time assembling a clutch by the way. I did stop before I broke anything and did some research to figure out the problem. I read on a vette forum that a guys builder had the same problem but "fixed" it by getting longer bellhousing bolts and cranking it together. They couldn't get it to turn over so they figured they had a problem. It took out the crank thrust bearing and reluctor wheel in his new engine. Got the engine and trans back in, had to dress it out a little and I think it's looking sick! Finished up my fuel tank and coated it with Red Kote, mounted my regulator and started piping to the engine. I built some 280zx rear disc adapters at work, they still need a little tweaking but are gonna work out. Today I rattle canned the beautiful gold off the Rota D2's I practically stole from a guy while in Georgia. I'm gonna focus this weekend on finishing my headers and getting some rubber under this thing, I'm getting really excited! If you more experianced guys see any red flags please let me know. 2013-06-25_21-07-09_896.pdf 2013-07-01_00-00-02_354.pdf 2013-07-01_00-00-32_370.pdf 2013-07-02_00-10-17_864.pdf 2013-07-02_00-26-00_801.pdf 2013-07-04_00-59-23_976.pdf 2013-07-04_00-59-44_31.pdf 2013-07-10_11-03-50_207.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Work faster man time to get her on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 I hear ya Matt, really all I have left to do is everything. It seems like the clock spins a lot faster as soon as I hit the garage. I think I'm gonna shelf my wide body mods until winter and just do what I need to get it looking decent. I have yet to double check my driveshaft length to make sure yours won't work for me. I was thinking if the price was right I might want to get it from you and just have a local shop shorten it for me. I have a sweet almost rust free '75 rear bumper I may be willing to trade lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Mine doesnt have any bumpers. Up to you man it cost me right aroound $200 to have it made not including the yoke which doesnt come with it. Usually its about $90 to get them shortened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 I never use pilot bearings. The bearing material is harder than the input shaft on the trans, so if the bearing goes and you keep driving it, it will likely take the input shaft with it. I've used bushings in all my cars for the last 6 years. You might get lucky on this, but I never do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Matt, If I can break even on costs and you get rid of some parts your not using I'll be in. You can add a little cash to the turbo fund! I know your car dosent have a bumper thats why that big chrome anchor would look so sweet, just think of the extra traction you'd get! Sunny, I did a little research on bearing vs bushing and it seemed to be about a 50/50 split on what guys ran. I just decided to run with what the factory installed. If anyone has any strong opinions I'd love to hear them, I have to pull the engine at least once more to get my headers in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Been building but not posting to this thread that much. Got my headers finished and engine back in, hopefully the last time for a little bit. Mounted my radiator and built a fan shroud. I have a little cleanup to do and it will be ready to mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Looking good so far . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Thanks dom. Threw on my acc drive and a couple other little bits and then started wiring. I should get it to crank tomorrow, hopefully nothing catches on fire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Got her to turn over, no fires. yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 You are ahead of me dave my engine and trans is sitting next to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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