RebekahsZ Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I'm dying for a lift too. I helped a buddy swap a diff the other night using a lift. Actually, that job is easier for me on my back assisted by a floor jack. Dislocated shoulders just can't catch the diff overhead. Took three of us old farts to carry the thing down! That dilutes the beer 3 ways too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 I pulled and put my diff back in with the CVs attached, I thought it was gonna kill me. I put it on my lap and then slid under the car and did some pelvic thrusts until I got it started in the moustach bar. I was sore for days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 You likely need more practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I pulled and put my diff back in with the CVs attached, I thought it was gonna kill me. I put it on my lap and then slid under the car and did some pelvic thrusts until I got it started in the moustach bar. I was sore for days! That can be done with a floor jack. Been there, done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Wait.......y'all have to lift your diff into the car? Damn independent suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 You likely need more practice! That's for sure! That can be done with a floor jack. Been there, done that. I tried with a floor jack but couldn't manuever it into place. Kind of a long story but I was fighting a stubborn CV and finally pulled the diff to get it in and wasn't about to take it out to install the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 That can be done with a floor jack. Been there, done that. X2, done it many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Matt-are you four link or ladder bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Keith, I'm going to put you on the spot. I know you have had more experience bleeding your clutch than you would like to have had. I've bled the s#!t out of mine and it feels really firm and only get the smallest of bubbles while cracking the screw but it will only disengage the clutch enough to just let it into gear, the wheels still turn with the pedal down(still on stands). I have a Wilwood 7/8" MC and a LS7 clutch. I used a mityvac to get to where I am now and finished with running my bleeder line up above the MC and pulling a vaccum on the bleeder while cracking it and pumping the pedal. I don't know if that makes sense but I feel pretty good about have as much air out of the system as possible. My thought is that the actuator rod is not extended enough. I was thinking about removing the pedal return spring and moving the pedal until I feel a little hydraulic resistance and then adjusting the rod out to a point slightly less than where I feel the resistance. Does that sound like a good idea? I've read about guys blowing out their slave with too much fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Answered my own question, ran the rod out about 3 turns and it's working. Wheels don't turn while in gear and the pedal floored. Is there anything else I should be looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 (edited) Here's another method I use to bleed clutch hyd. . First , I don't like to use vac to bleed clutch or brake sytsem , sometimes it creates a vac ( air ) in the system . If you have problem getting air out of the system due hyd line routing , do a back bleed . Meaning , fill a pump or syringe with fluid then force it up from the bottom ( line that goes to slave ) then bleed it the normal way to make sure you get all the air out . This method works very well when hyd lines or pipes that route too high up or too many loops and turns . Edited September 14, 2013 by Domzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 After messing around with it for 3hrs last night I went to autozone to try to get a pressure bleeder but they didn't have one so I got the mityvac. It feels good now, we'll have to see how it fairs in the next couple days. On to the brakes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 4 link man is there any other way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Matt-I wish all you sra guys would post pics from underneath while on a lift. I'm talking to the fella in georgia with the black wheelie-prone ladder bar car. Trying to get together at his track next week. I'm likely looking at a chassis minus engine and tranny. Naptown-my problem (one of my problems) was lack of pushrod length also (insert favorite Viagra joke), even after bleeding like crazy. Bleed some more in a week to get those tiny bubbles out too. Also, make sure it disengages a little extra or you will grind on high rpm shifting. It has to totally disengage. Anybody know why on jackstands, with the clutch is in, when I push the shifter from neutral into first, the tires rotate a bit? Is that synchros? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Mine rotate a little to with the tires off the ground and in first but I can stop them by hand. Remind me once she is back on the road and ill put it on the lift and get you some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 I cut the metric nut off the Datsun clevis and welded on one that fit the wilwood rod so I have plenty of adjustment. I noticed my wheels would turn a little when putting it in gear and then stop, I assumed it was the syncros. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Sounds like we are all the same. Yeah, my Datsun pushrod is ALL the way out. I need to change to the longer rod myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Mine is all the way out also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 I think I finally got my brake bleeding issues taken care of last night. 2 gallons of dot and at least 30 hours later I have a firm pedal. I think I had about the same amount of time building my headers and exhaust! Going to go thru my suspension and driveline tonight torquing bolts and throw the brake lights and wheels on and go for a spin. Indianapolis Metro Police please stay out of my neighborhood from 8-10pm, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 VIDEO!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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