HELP HELP HELP!

[peyton]

So I really hate to do this to my pride.. but I'm not super great at this stuff and I just want to make sure I have my settings and setup "generally" correct so I don't blow my engine or ~$400 ecu investment up. I would greatly appreciate any constructive advise as to what setting are wack or what should be corrected immediately via me being a noob.  I honestly went through the the "http://www.megamanual.com/mt29.htm" and did the best I could to follow along but I'm just nervous about my work all I'm asking is to look over my MSQ and give some advise for the parameters I have for my setup I will include other information and try to be as clear as possible. 

so my set up is 

Car- 1975 280z 2+2

Engine-stock 1983 L28ET
P90a head
Stock bottom for 1983 turbo I think the "Fwhatever"

N42 plenum

standard Coil

 

 

Megasquirt 2 v3 code 2.92 
   
   -megasquirt setup is as follows-
I built this up via the http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm

I built the ecu per the diyautotune site's advise to "Build the ECU up to trigger from the Hall/Optical Input"

   - I followed the "mods"  for the ms2 in this article  http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm

   

I DID NOT INSTALL THE VR CIRCUIT, PWM IDLE VALVE OR THE PWM FLYBACK FOR THE INJECTORS.. I was under the impression that they weren't required.

for step 65. I chose to go the direct coil control route (I have BIP373 if that's of any useful information.)

through the whole installation I did the appropriate tests and all came back how they were supposed to so I figure that I at least did that part basically right.

as for the Specific information about my setup

I am using the '83 dizzy from the with the stock trigger wheel

 

 

Stock throttle body w/ 240sx tps adapted 

 

Stock injectors with 25watt 6 ohm resistors.....I do not have the pwm flyback circuit (I installed it and bench tested it with the stim and I believe I didn't have enough resistance "or a short" between Q9\Q12 and the heat sink because my ecu basically stopped working....so I removed the circuit and now it works exactly like it used to.)

 

I don't have the MS relay board. so I had to wire my own relay and junction box up, but I will get the relay board soon.
 

I will attach a paint file with how my wiring harness was done...if interested. maybe diagnostic reasons or to laugh at how I shouldn't be an electrician. 

I spent a lot of time looking for someone with a similar build to mine using the stock dizzy and a standard coil instead of a hei/vr setup to use as a reference for the dwell parameters and the other settings but I wasn't too lucky so I spent a lot of time reading the tuning section and getting confused.  so here is my current MSQ please help and ask as many questions as you need I will answer to the best of my ability. any feedback would be lovely since I've had this car for about 2 years and have been fucked over and ripped off multiple times. any help is greatly appreciated

 

 

 

 

2013-07-21_02.14.43.msq.zip

[Dan_Austin]

It will be a bit before I can look at the MSQ, but have a couple suggestions-

1.  Consider the DIY CAS wheel.  It is a simple drop-in replacement for the

wheel in the stock distributor, provides for more accurate position crank

position detection and allows for a future move to sequential.  Not critical,

but low cost.

2.  I also run the B&G code, but would suggest that you look at the

Extra firmware.  The support community is larger and there are quite a

few 'extra' tunable options that might make it easier to get a 'perfect'

tune.  ( closed loop idle and boost control being two biggies )

 

Finally if you have not bought the full license for TunerStudio, you really, really

should as well as a full license for MegaLog Viewer.

Edited July 21, 2013 by Dan_Austin

[peyton]

Thank you Dan for your input. once pay day rolls around I will order the CAS wheel from DIY and get the full license from Tunerstudios.

I will see what I can do about installing the extra code since I had to snip out the pwm flyback circuit due to not being able to get nearly enough resistance (~20ohm) instead of the 60 ohms the mega manual suggests and the 300ohms the extra manual suggests. any suggestions as to how to fix that? I chamfered the bolt hole, sanded the heat sink lightly (first with 120, then with 100, then with 80), cleaned the board with 91%

[Dan_Austin]

I actually went with a microsquirt based system, so I did not need to deal with

the board assembly.

[winstonusmc]

I use the VR circuit on the output of the dizzy, so you need that to interface with the optical sensor with the appropriate pull up resistor. When checking everything, make sure everything works before you try to fire it up. Use the output test mode to check the fuel pump, coil, and injector outputs before trying to crank the engine. When checking the injector outputs, use a mutlimeter and check just the plug so you don't dump fuel in your motor. I didn't use the relay board either, just did it the way Nissan does all there cars, with relays along side the engine harness. Wish I could help more, but ms3 has a few setup differences. From what it looks like, MS3 is more like a factory Nissan ECU. Good luck!

[peyton]

I know no one cares but I solved the issue.

What caused my issues
bad starter gound 

smoked BIP373
bad spark plugs.


I'm still using the stock trigger wheel because the boob before me stripped the screws that connects (what I believe to be) the CAS housing and I really dont want to source a new 83 dizzy 

Edited September 11, 2013 by peyton