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winstonusmc last won the day on July 5 2014

winstonusmc had the most liked content!

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About winstonusmc

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    Havelock, NC

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  1. Thanks man! Pikes peak really isn't 23 minutes away. Takes me about 25 minutes to get to the toll booth and then 45 minutes to drive up. I have tickets to the Hill climb at the end if the month. Great driving roads around here though
  2. I did the hydraulic power steering for three different reasons. I already had the power steering pump for the RB, rebuild support is better for the Subaru rack, and the under dash area is neater. My rack was getting sloppy and was needing rebuilt or replaced anyway. For downhill, my brakes are overbuilt anyway with vented in the front and back.
  3. Another thing I haven't shown is I replaced all the carpet and rear panels.
  4. Yes, it's Colorado Springs. I don't have a house yet, so my car lives in an enclosed car trailer in storage. Good thing I can unload it whenever I want. Next, now that I have the Haltech, is electronic throttle. This allows for cruise control and rev matching. This is the photo if my trailer which doubles as my garage. My driveshaft was out because the shop that made it absolutely could not balance it. A shop out here in Colorado Springs successfully balanced it for me. I also need to get it on a Dyno to see how bad 83% atmosphere is for horsepower.
  5. So a long time since an update. Big life changes require big changes in modification. I recently moved to 6000ft of elevation after my retirement from the Marine Corps. So the dusty environment and elevation would do for the trusty ITB. So enter an RB25DET. Megasquirt is gone too, time for a real ECU, an Elite 2500. Currently the engine has a Chinese turbo, a Freddy intake, and bunch of fabrication and parts from my previous L28ET. Still sitting on my custom engine mounts. I rebuilt the transmission due to a bad bearing. I also half installed a T3 rear conversion with Z32 brakes and R200. I also mounted a narrowed WRX steering rack for power steering and installed a Vintage Air HVAC with the RB compressor
  6. Reflowing the solder on the MAF is a common thing on those. It happens from the MAF not being bolted and flopping around. It stresses the connector and cracks the solder joints.
  7. The hazard switch on the LHD 240z is to the right of the steering wheel, so I would assume it's to the left on the RHD. It is one of two holes, the other is the cig lighter. http://zhome.com/Classic/Restore/dash.htm
  8. the static timing value should match the indication on the pulley. If you set static at 20 degrees, the timing light should indicate at the 20 degree value on the pulley. Its the 5th mark according to the picture I have attached. My 0 degree is painted red and the rest are white.
  9. Yeah, that's my channel. That is Tuner Studio for Megasquirt. It's the registered version that has the custome dashboard layout.
  10. My buddy with the GTR was missing the bottom dowel as well. It cost about $15 from the dealership. In my opinion, that price is worth the headache it saves you of driveline damage in the future.
  11. You have the mustache bar backwards. Check out this thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-s30-forums-9/240-suspension-swap-40952/ You might have the R200 bar, the bolt spacing is a little wider then the R180. The R180 bar is also supposed to be in front of the vehicle suspension mounts. Also, do you have the alignment dowels from the engine to transmission? I cant remember if the L24 has them, but on the RB there are two dowels the align the trans to the engine. This also aligns the plate, which will allow the bolts and starter to align as well. There is a hollow dowel, similar to the head dowels, on the left bolt opposite of the starter and a solid dowel on the top of the engine in between the top bolts. If these are not there, the engine could be off enough to destroy a clutch like this: From a buddy's GTR with a missing dowel pin.
  12. I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.
  13. Yes. The timing light should always match the output of the ECU. Locking the timing allows it to be at a value that doesn't change and is what you can see on the pulley. Lock it at 20 and ensure the light from spark plug #1 is on 20. Just dont forget to unlock it when you are finished. I have driven my car for a few days on 15 degrees static. Could be dangerous, mostly just lacks power.
  14. When you lock the timing, choose a value that will let the engine idle smoothly and has a mark on the pulley. The RB has marks every 5 degrees. My RB26 liked 20 degrees to make a smooth idle. Sometimes you have to turn the idle up to get it smooth. While the timing is locked, just line up the mark on the pulley that corresponds with the value you selected, not 0. The whole idea is making the timing light correspond to the ecu timing value.
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