Domzs Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Both of mine are mounted at the spare tire location , didn't take any pic . I'm using Optima batteries . Wouldn't rec. regular bat. ( acid ) in the car , I've seen a few exploded , what a mess . If you look at online catalogs like Summit Racing and Speedway , I think there's a note about triple-pass . I was going to get one for my ZX , upgrade for 6.0 turbo , ended up bought a double-pass instead ( after I read the warning ) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Well, I just paid for a T5 with drive shaft and dif. Waiting on the parts place to call me so I can pick it up. I will be installing it all next week...or maybe the week after. It's gonna be a nightmare, Im sure. Good thing is I get to buy a few new toys, like a short shifter. Saw on Zdriver that Bleach was able to use a cheap one off ebay with really good results. Im all about cheap, as long as it works. I doubt anyone will pull up my shift boot to point and laugh at me. On another note, I was able to completely rebuild my idler pulley for my power steering. I found it in the hatch badly rusted. I cleaned it up real well and bought new nut/washer/bolt and a bearing from "bearing distributors inc", who, by the way, are the cheapest and best place to get bearings if you find you need any, it cost me 5.50 for a new one. So, after I put the tranny in Im going to see about working the intercooler piping so that I can have power steering again and I may swap out the radiator so I can close the dang hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 Don't forget your clutch assembly and flywheel . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 Im pretty sure the clutch/flywheel I have will work. I just have to use the right release bearing. The clutch is a racing clutch (pita) and a lightened flywheel, both have maybe 5000 on them. I have a new release bearing for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 Thought T5 uses a different setup , different part number at the parts store for clutch and flywheel . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 They are different, but from what I have read the non turbo clutch flywheel will fit the t5, but not vice versa. The na is a 225 vs a 240 flywheel. If I'm wrong I'll definitely be pissed. Can't afford a clutch and flywheel after getting the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Well, I am never using anything other than NGK spark plugs, car was running like garbage, went on rockauto and bought the last 8 brp 7es11s I saw (98cents a piece, woohoo!) and some NGK wires, put them on and drove a little bit, runs a lot better....transmission did not seem to enjoy it too much. I found that there is still fluid in the trans, it's just really loud, plus something is loose somewhere and the squeeling sounds like it's coming from the drive shaft or maybe the speedo cable. It doesnt matter, that tranny is gone come monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Well, it has been rough, almost completely done with the transmission swap, thanks to a couple friends. It would have been a lot easier had I been able to remove the exhaust, but the only place to unbolt it is off the turbo and the bolts are completely rusted on. I have to swap the flange off the diff from the junk yard to fit the one already on my car, buy the rear oil seal for the tranny, install the drive shaft, fill her up with fluid, install the shifter, charge the dang battery and take her out for a spin. I will post pics when I am done, unfortunately I am not allowed to take photos where I am doing the work at. After the transmission, I will continue with the rust, got some POR15 in the mail, so Im good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Well, getting a shop to put the transmission on, got a new clutch to put on it as well. Hopefully she will be up and going in the next few days and I can start the work I want to do to her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Got the car back! WOOHOO!.......but..... Well, as I was enjoying the way the T5 shifts with my brand new clutch and flywheel, I noticed a hum coming from the rear of the car...today, that hum has become a roar. Either the wheel bearing is out or it is my differential. I am sure the differential is bad, when I put it in reverse and back up there is this extremely loud knocking noise, more of a POP POP POP. I also believe all the jerkyness I feel while driving isnt the engine misfiring, it's the differential binding. I went ahead and got another differential, it's a 3.54 instead of 3.9 R200, so I am not sure how much different it will be, I was really enjoying the 3.9. Ill slap it on after work tomorrow, hopefully that fixes it, if it is the wheel bearing, Im going to have to let someone else handle that whenever they come in (already ordered them in anticipation). Wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Also, Im going to do a search, I know I saw somewhere someone did a write up about it, but if anyone has any tips on installing a bushing kit (energy suspension, etc) I'm all ears. It should be arriving in the mail soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 (edited) Well, with or without luck wishes, I got the "new" differential in and it seems to be fine. So far I have driven to and from work with no problems. At a few points though my release bearing began squealing loudly, this worries me, I just got it installed, Ill never use that shop again (all four bolts on my drive shaft were not even hand tight, no reverse light, didnt even hook the ground cable up to the starter) Im hoping they didnt screw something up. I'm picking up an entire subframe this weekend and Im going to restore it off the car (bearings, ujoints, bushings) and slap that beast in. Figured Ill do brake lines as well. Edited December 21, 2013 by invalidusername Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 Well, the differential is crazy loud, Im going to try a different weight oil, see if that helps, if not, Im going to try and find a 3.9 R200 for cheap, although I am getting better gas mileage with the 3.54 (I think, either that, or my gas gauge stopped working). Figured everyone likes pictures, so here are a few things I have been up to this rainy week. Finishing up the gauge pillar so I can finally see my AFR and boost again: Ive also been making a plug so that I can make a carbon fiber heat shield...just something to do. I have some 12K carbon I bought a while back, I really can't think of anything else to make with it. I also have a very large sleeve that I will most likely make in to a custom coolant reservoir. And here is all the crap I bought to "rebuild the rear end...and front eventually: Im pretty excited about how it will look/ride when I am done. I cannot believe how expensive that dang differential insulator is. The brake lines werent too bad, nor was the prothane kit. I spoke to Techno Toy Tuning and they said that they should be making a trailing arm kit for the S130 in the next few months..which would be AWESOME! I am definitely going to be using their coil over conversion kit for the front (already have coil overs in the rear), tension rods as well. As far as brakes go, I don't do autocross, so Im sticking with the drill-slotted rotors and better pads for my stock brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) Mainly updating this for my benefit, so I can look back and remember how much effort I've put in to this. Did some work to my T-top pieces. They were worn and cracked and had ugly vinyl on them, so I reupholstered them and did a little CF magic. Here is the before picture (with a piece I started above it): After: I like it, and that's all that matters, I guess. I had made inserts to go in the handle/latch part, but they did not fit right, so I am making them over. Edited January 27, 2014 by invalidusername Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) I am also adding daytime running lights to the car. I miss having fog lights and since I plan on doing leds for headlights and tail lights, I am installing phillips 8s in to the front air dam. I'm glad I started, I found that my air dam had cracked all the way through: So I peeled off the old fiber glass someone had attempted (very very poorly) to fix the air dam with and added a layer of glass covered in West systems GFlex on the back side, then riveted a piece of aluminum in. Then proceeded to fit test the lights and cut out slots: I decided to use foam to make "inserts' for the lights, that way they can kind of conform to some shape. The air dam doesnt look too great with flat lights. That was after some serious shaping with 50 grit sand paper..what a pita. I added some colloidal silica to my epoxy until it was damn near peanut butter viscosity then filled in all the large divets, before it cured I put another coat on (I could not find my super light fiberglass cloth, otherwise I would have used that) then waited a day and pulled the form off: I shaped it a little more, then started with the carbon (starting to see a theme yet?) and began the process of doing wet layup. I was going to vacuum bag it, but the 3lb foam cant handle the pressure. Most of my other parts vacuumed quite well, it's just the slot for the light bends in too far. Ill post more once Im done. Im going to finish up refiberglassing the air dam and correctly fixing the crack while working on the light inserts. Edited January 27, 2014 by invalidusername Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 OK, been a while since I have updated this thread. I have been using the Z as a daily driver for a while now, but lately it seems the timing is pretty bad off. Ive been too busy to get a light and check (work, travel, excuses excuses), but I got pretty scared once I found that cylinder 6 had not been firing at all (or very little). Looking at the rotor and cap, looks like the spark is happening just when the rotor is close enough to conduct, really black with build up on the very tip of the corner of the rotor. It does't matter now, Im going to be going with yukon coils in wasted spark configuration using the optical wheel from diyautotune. Since I have no idea whatsoever of what I am doing...I will be doing a lot of reading and research. It doesn't seem too bad. Update on the other crap: *Seats-have not been installed, removing rust took priority, almost done rustproofing (por15) *Front air dam-made a positive with foam using the original air dam, and went ahead and made a carbon fiber air dam, test fit and found out that the foam had shrunk too much=waste of perfectly good carbon fiber. *I will be rebuilding a subframe off the car then installing it (brakes, pads, cables, bushings, bearings etc) The "custom" wiring job that was done for the megasquirt is absolutely terrible, I have had way too many issues with the vehicle due to faulty wiring alone, so I went crazy: I removed the entire dash, removed all of the stock AC stuff, ripped out any harness that did not keep the car from running, mounted in a vintage air air-handler and will be in the process of running wires correctly and relocating the battery. I bought a headlight harness from blackdragon, I will be removing the HID setup I have and replacing the headlights with LEDs (JW Speaker) and retrofitting the fiberglass airdam the car came with to accept LED fog lights. Ill post pictures of my progress and will keep this thread alive, especially now since I bought a brand new Nissan Frontier (Nissan baby) I can have the car down as long as I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invalidusername Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 Also wanted to add: If anyone is interested in the Speaker LED headlights, go to EADoffroad.com, best price anywhere. Contact them and ask for a discount code, don't get me wrong, they are very expensive...very, but I like them. They also added the fog lights at my request, so check those out too if you are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Your project is coming along pretty good . Keep it up , more pics . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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