rodriguezf0913 Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Hello Hybridz, I have been looking around the forum for answers to my questions but I don't find anyone that's run a setup like mine. I have a 78 280z I purchased a set of eibach lowering springs and now I plan on running a set of ssr rs reps 17x8.5 +30 front and 17x10 +20 rear. My question is I have heard that these cars need negative offset. I also purchased a set of spacers 1.5 inch for the front 1 inch for rear. Will this be enough to clear the wheels with lowered suspension? Also what tires can I run? Any help is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9rider Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 i am newbie too and I see similar topic more than twice this month. Do your research - spend 1 2 hours not just 15 mins and you will find your answer. Mean while , you can go under your car with tape-measure and find pretty much about clearance of your new wheel. Just my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I can tell you that you will need spacers ( too much positive offset ) and flares ( too wide ) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodriguezf0913 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 9rider thanks for the comment but I've been searching the answer to my question for about now and not just on hybridz. If you've found it somewhere then link the thread but don't just bash. Domzs, I have spacers that I ordered like I mentioned in the post. 1.5inch front and 1 inch rear so that will put the wheels onto negative offset by a few mm (somewhere between 8-10) but my question still stands if this is enough or would I need to go wider? And I also have flares ready to go on the car to compensate for the rim poke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Coilovers or lowering springs? Front will most likely hit the strutcasing at 17x8,5 et5 and the rear will definitely hit at 17x10 et-5. You need about 10mm thicker spacers to clear the inside fender. For the front 17x8,5 et-5 will work, but the rear at 17x10 et-15 would need flares. It would poke way to much... As all cars have small differences, suspension setups etc you will have to measure yourself to be safe. 10 min of work will answer all your questions. See www.willtheyfit.com and go and measure;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 (edited) I would also go for a lot thicker spacer in the front to let it even with the rear. Go for about 10mm less offset on the fronts, so you'll be at 8,5 et-25 front and 10 et-15 rear. This will require flares both front and rear. In my experience 10" rears without flares are not doable if you're not running a lot of stretch, negativ camber and pulled fenders... Edited September 18, 2013 by HaaJeHaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodriguezf0913 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 I would also go for a lot thicker spacer in the front to let it even with the rear. Go for about 10mm less offset on the fronts, so you'll be at 8,5 et-25 front and 10 et-15 rear. This will require flares both front and rear. In my experience 10" rears without flares are not doable if you're not running a lot of stretch, negativ camber and pulled fenders... just some background info on why i am asking about this rather than going to the car. I have the car at a friends resto shop 40 miles from home so its not quite accessible at all times. I am ordering parts as I go so if I can get some good info from members rather than having to wait for things to get here it will speed up the process exponentially. I have a set of flares that are going on the car so i can space the wheels out some. I have the 1 inch (25.4mm) and 1.5 (38mm) inch spacers on the way so I am just trying to see if thats enough or if ill need extra spacing. Its on eibach drop springs at the moment, the rear didnt drop much but the front did. ( unless it has to settle since the rears are progressive springs) so the fronts are 17x8.5 with a +30 offset. the spacers i have for the front are 1.5inch (38mm) so that would give me a -8mm and the rears are 17x10 +20 offset and the 1 inch spacers (25.4mm) giving me a -5.4mm so id need about 10mm more to be on the safe side you say? I am also planning on getting the MSA street camber kit for the front and back which will give it 1.5 degree all around but also lower the rear an extra 3/4 inch. will this clear or do i also need to space extra if i plan on doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I see;) Coilovers will give you more space to play with, thats why I asked. Yup, you'll need an extra 10mm for the rears to work (about -15 offset on 10"). I would recommend measuring this aswell as my comparison is on Arizona Z coilovers. The fronts will be ok at -8 but they will look sunk-in compared to the rear. That's why I recommend thicker spacer in front. The camber kit won't solve any issues. Your issue is on the inner side of the fender towards the strut assembly. That space won't change whether you give it camber or lower it. I'm not sure about what your thoughts are on the stance of the car. If you're going to run flares a flush setup does look the best. For this about -20 to -25 offset on the 10" is required. Do the math for the fronts yourself;) The stock fenders can run the same width/offset wheels both front and rear as the track (for the 280z atleast) is the same, so you can space the fronts to match the rear. It's really a gamble if you're purchasing parts without knowing the measurements yourself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodriguezf0913 Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 I see;) Coilovers will give you more space to play with, thats why I asked. Yup, you'll need an extra 10mm for the rears to work (about -15 offset on 10"). I would recommend measuring this aswell as my comparison is on Arizona Z coilovers. The fronts will be ok at -8 but they will look sunk-in compared to the rear. That's why I recommend thicker spacer in front. The camber kit won't solve any issues. Your issue is on the inner side of the fender towards the strut assembly. That space won't change whether you give it camber or lower it. I'm not sure about what your thoughts are on the stance of the car. If you're going to run flares a flush setup does look the best. For this about -20 to -25 offset on the 10" is required. Do the math for the fronts yourself;) The stock fenders can run the same width/offset wheels both front and rear as the track (for the 280z atleast) is the same, so you can space the fronts to match the rear. It's really a gamble if you're purchasing parts without knowing the measurements yourself... I see;) Coilovers will give you more space to play with, thats why I asked. Yup, you'll need an extra 10mm for the rears to work (about -15 offset on 10"). I would recommend measuring this aswell as my comparison is on Arizona Z coilovers. The fronts will be ok at -8 but they will look sunk-in compared to the rear. That's why I recommend thicker spacer in front. The camber kit won't solve any issues. Your issue is on the inner side of the fender towards the strut assembly. That space won't change whether you give it camber or lower it. I'm not sure about what your thoughts are on the stance of the car. If you're going to run flares a flush setup does look the best. For this about -20 to -25 offset on the 10" is required. Do the math for the fronts yourself;) The stock fenders can run the same width/offset wheels both front and rear as the track (for the 280z atleast) is the same, so you can space the fronts to match the rear. It's really a gamble if you're purchasing parts without knowing the measurements yourself... I did a mock up of the flares with the wheels this past weekend to determine what size spacers i needed. by eye the wheels seemed to be right about flush with the flares at the 1 and 1.5 inch spacing. i need the spacers to bolt the wheels up and compress suspension to see if it hits then i guess i can measure the remaining spacing at that point. the reason for the camber idea is because the back still looks about stock height after the lowering spring install, so an extra 3/4 drop would be nice. and second if i need any extra adjustment for tire wear. as a side note do you know if there will be any rub on the front at full turn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I did not read the previous posts because I'm in class but I will try to chime in my opinion lol Rear: the offset you have is way too high. You will hit your struts. Highest you can run on a x10 safetly is 0. Keyword is safetly lol No matter what offset you're running you're going to have to run ZG flares with x10 wheels if you don't want to poke out of your fender. Fronts: you can get away with 15mm spacers and MAYBE some neg camber Tires on the x10 Im about to run R888 235/50 On your fronts I would run 195/50 R888s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 (edited) I did a mock up of the flares with the wheels this past weekend to determine what size spacers i needed. by eye the wheels seemed to be right about flush with the flares at the 1 and 1.5 inch spacing. i need the spacers to bolt the wheels up and compress suspension to see if it hits then i guess i can measure the remaining spacing at that point. the reason for the camber idea is because the back still looks about stock height after the lowering spring install, so an extra 3/4 drop would be nice. and second if i need any extra adjustment for tire wear. as a side note do you know if there will be any rub on the front at full turn? No, your eye must be incorrectly adjusted;) You'll need a lot thicker spacers for those to be flush with zg flares. The pic attached is my car with stock fenders, only rolled. I have 16x9,5 et -10 F/R and that is more or less flush (3mm poke). I got 4mm of play to the coilover sleeve. I can't quite understand the camber adjustment purchase for tire wear. You should look into adjustable rear LCA's for toe adjustment... Camber have close to nothing to do with tire wear, toe is what wear tires. Yes, the inside will be worn at neg camber but not much faster than at 0 degrees camber. Camber is great for cornering grip adjustment though... The rubbing issue will depend on your tire selection, mostly overall diameter. Edited September 18, 2013 by HaaJeHaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I did not read the previous posts because I'm in class but I will try to chime in my opinion lol Rear: the offset you have is way too high. You will hit your struts. Highest you can run on a x10 safetly is 0. Keyword is safetly lol No matter what offset you're running you're going to have to run ZG flares with x10 wheels if you don't want to poke out of your fender. Fronts: you can get away with 15mm spacers and MAYBE some neg camber Tires on the x10 Im about to run R888 235/50 On your fronts I would run 195/50 R888s Nope, you'll need more negative offset to run 10" rear. You'll hit the strut at zero offset. Measure for yourself if you don't believe me;) Not if you pull the rear fenders and run 225/45's. That will work, although not recommended. No need for negative camber at that width for the fronts. Depends on tires though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodriguezf0913 Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Haajeehaa so saying the offset is good at the addition of the 10mm extra that you suggested would the tire size I had in mind work? Could I go any wider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) This guy is running 15x10 -29 with plenty of room -29mm + 38mm = 9mm. and that would sit on the struts. Of course you need to give it some space for tires but if he plans to go stanced and do a badass stretch then thats pretty ballsy to do go with a positive offset. I feel like Zero is a safe bet for him. Rodriquezf0913, what kind of look or function are you going for? do you want flares or no flares? Edited September 19, 2013 by miky360 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodriguezf0913 Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Miky, I am just looking to get these 17s functional and looking right for street, I have plans of an rb swap after the car is out of the shop and when that is in I will have a separate set of 15s with drag tires. The look I want on the car with these wheels is clean, I am not big on stretch tires but if I must go that route to run the wheels then I am open to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) This guy is running 15x10 -29 with plenty of room -29mm + 38mm = 9mm. and that would sit on the struts. Of course you need to give it some space for tires but if he plans to go stanced and do a badass stretch then thats pretty ballsy to do go with a positive offset. I feel like Zero is a safe bet for him. Rodriquezf0913, what kind of look or function are you going for? do you want flares or no flares? Hmm, thats why he should considering measuring himself. I do not have that room to play with;) Edited September 19, 2013 by HaaJeHaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 With an RB swap I would go with F:17x9 0 R:17x10 -15 Tires, I'd still stick with the R888s (Best bang for your buck) at 235 in the rear and 205 in the front. That's a 235 R888 on a 10. That's 280zcar's setup btw. Absolutely love it HaaJeHaa, with our cars being 40 years old im sure most peoples setup vary differently from the next guys with all the wear&tear LOL but hey, that's just how things go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.