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About HaaJeHaa

  • Birthday 08/09/1989

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  1. OS Giken on Facebook just announced it. https://m.facebook.com/OSGiken/
  2. I just saw the announcement on Facebook. A truly knowledgeable guy that has helped me several times. Rest in piece.
  3. I hope so. I'm in marked for a new Z, altough I feel offers over 5k is unrealistic for a car that need 20-25k in parts and paint.
  4. Thanks, I've been offered cars for 6 - 12k in this state. Do you know of any?
  5. Whats the realistic price for a rolling 1970 series 1 240z with no engine, some rust and in need for a total restoration? How far should I stretch?
  6. Ok, thanks! I'm keeping an lookout at ebay and craigslist as well
  7. Want to buy a 240z thats registered before january 1. 1971 for a complete restoration. First time registration date is important as it makes modification easier in Norway (laws from 1942 instead of 1971). Planning on doing a full rotisserie restoriation with upgraded driveline and engine. Anything at interest, though hoping for minimal rust issues. 1-10.000 USD depending on condition. I'll arrange shipping from your garage to me. Let me know if you have one for sale or know of any.
  8. It will fit if you lower your Z on coilovers with camber adjustment and run a little stretched tires. I ran 16x9.5 et -10 with 225/45's on stock fenders (rolled) without any rubbing. A 205/50 tire on the 15x9 will make plenty of room without the need of to much camber. On stock suspension they wil poke to much outside of the fender.
  9. You're meaning me^^ Yup, I have 16x9,5 et-10 w 225/45 all around with a minor fender roll and camber plates. If you're lowering the car, you can easily run 17x9,5 et0 all around if you choose the right tire for clearance and have the tires under the fenders. You might need a set of spacers if you have coilovers/ other clearance issues to the strut tubes.
  10. Hmm, thats why he should considering measuring himself. I do not have that room to play with;)
  11. Nope, you'll need more negative offset to run 10" rear. You'll hit the strut at zero offset. Measure for yourself if you don't believe me;) Not if you pull the rear fenders and run 225/45's. That will work, although not recommended. No need for negative camber at that width for the fronts. Depends on tires though..
  12. No, your eye must be incorrectly adjusted;) You'll need a lot thicker spacers for those to be flush with zg flares. The pic attached is my car with stock fenders, only rolled. I have 16x9,5 et -10 F/R and that is more or less flush (3mm poke). I got 4mm of play to the coilover sleeve. I can't quite understand the camber adjustment purchase for tire wear. You should look into adjustable rear LCA's for toe adjustment... Camber have close to nothing to do with tire wear, toe is what wear tires. Yes, the inside will be worn at neg camber but not much faster than at 0 degrees camber. Camber is great for cornering grip adjustment though... The rubbing issue will depend on your tire selection, mostly overall diameter.
  13. I see;) Coilovers will give you more space to play with, thats why I asked. Yup, you'll need an extra 10mm for the rears to work (about -15 offset on 10"). I would recommend measuring this aswell as my comparison is on Arizona Z coilovers. The fronts will be ok at -8 but they will look sunk-in compared to the rear. That's why I recommend thicker spacer in front. The camber kit won't solve any issues. Your issue is on the inner side of the fender towards the strut assembly. That space won't change whether you give it camber or lower it. I'm not sure about what your thoughts are on the stance of the car. If you're going to run flares a flush setup does look the best. For this about -20 to -25 offset on the 10" is required. Do the math for the fronts yourself;) The stock fenders can run the same width/offset wheels both front and rear as the track (for the 280z atleast) is the same, so you can space the fronts to match the rear. It's really a gamble if you're purchasing parts without knowing the measurements yourself...
  14. I would also go for a lot thicker spacer in the front to let it even with the rear. Go for about 10mm less offset on the fronts, so you'll be at 8,5 et-25 front and 10 et-15 rear. This will require flares both front and rear. In my experience 10" rears without flares are not doable if you're not running a lot of stretch, negativ camber and pulled fenders...
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