tooquick260 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Ok posting here for more exposure.... I have completed the z31 ecu install. If you havent followed this is what I have. L26 bottom end P90 head Schneiders hot cam 83 turbo t/3-4, 83 wiring harness If it matters, i am using the 74 datsun balast resistor for ignition on outlets. Which I have powering O2 sensor, MAF, low pressure fuel pump and high pressure fuel pump, and coil. 240sx throttle body AEM tru-boost controller AEM Air/Fuel gauge 88 Z31 turbo ecu tuned by ECUtuning 500cc high impedence injectors This is the issue: Car will start and run. I can drive the car feels real strong still on low boost. But, if I drive the car for extended periods of time it seems to run worse. As in, the air fuel when cruising starts out reading great.... 15.2 to 16.1. At traffic lights the a/f will go up and out of the realm of the gauge reading 18+. On some occasions when going to stop, I lift off accelerator and stick the clutch in the car will stall. I can either let the clutch out and jump start or restart the car(sometimes it will not unless i unplug everthing as stated above.)So, when i stop and turn the car off it will either not start as in no ignition, or have a struggle turning over like the battery is dead and/or strong current draw on electical system. Other issue is when driving if I lift off accelerator and stick the clutch in the car will stall like coming up to light. It does not do it all the time but is annoying. Seems to be during more spirited driving on off gas quickly. I can either let the clutch out and jump start or restart the car(sometimes it will not unless i unplug everthing as stated above.) If I then unplug the ecu connectors, all three, and unplug the 2 wires to the ignitor. Re-plug them all in the car will start and run fine. Any suggestions? Any ideas? Anyone experienced this? I know it is either self inflicted or the ecu is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Since no response now this is my plans....... move maf at least 8 inches and have the filter in front of the intercooler. Going to wire the fuel pump to the ecu through the relay like factory. Move the maf and O2 sensor wires to there own source for power. Looking at the 88 300 z31 wire diagram to see if there is a transistor inline for the ecu signal, maybe it reduces voltage to the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 If you can, put maf in front of throttle body. Is this a mail order tune? Tough to get that right the first try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Yes it is mail order... and I understand. The tune is pretty close. Martin at Z Fever is willing to do a final tune as soon as I have all the issues/bugs worked out. So are you saying to move the maf after the turbo in front of the throttle body? Or just move it out length wise past the throttle body? The tuner told me to try a few things...... 1. get a msd blaster ss coil 2. unplug the O2 sensor 3. Unplug the memory power button to the ecu I will try that tomorrow to see it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I'm saying try it between the Intercooler and the throttle body. Blow thru setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Really... interesting. Ok easiest for my is to move it the 8" from turbo. It that is still giving me trouble I will move it between the intercooler and the throttle body. I think I may have enough room there to slide it in. Only issue is wiring , may have to extend the maf harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Got some of the above done today...... Man you try to run around and pick up parts and peaces and the day flys by. So I rewired some things. I had 5 things running off the positive leg of the starter,, they were fused but looked bad. So I bought a 6 leg fuse terminal using the newer gm style fuses. Made an aluminum plate and bolted to where the seat belt start interupt button was at. I will post pics later. I also ran both fuel pumps ( i have a low pressure and high pressure with a surge tank) off of a fuel pressure relay. Yes I know the z31 ecu can trigger this. That will be done when I know that I have all other issues figured out. (want to hook the reverse lights up to the 6 speed sender as well.) Man those pumps have never been that happy. Also moved the AFM to about 9 inches away from the turbo. That took as long as the wiring did. When I moved it that far away I needed a bracket to hold the end of the air cleaner because it was sagging and would of eventually fall off. So first attempt of starting and driving with these small changes...... Started right up.... but had the battery unplugged as well as the ecu during the wiring redo. Smoother acceleration The air/fuel readings where more consistant on cruising and idling Exhaust note was deeper Did not stall randomly,,,, tried a few blasts in 2nd and 3rd and then stick the clutch in lifting off the gas pedal, did not stall. it did a little hickup when it fell below the 1000 rpm but came back to an idle. Before it would just die. Will be driving it a lot this weekend and see what else pops up. Things I will be looking at and working on. Helping my dad and brother putting subframe bushings in the z31 Figuring out the clunk in my rear suspensin,, happens on accel and sudden decel Eliminate the gas fumes or at least reduce the amount getting in the cabin Put a plan together for the brakes. They work great but in a panic you easily lock up the front brakes. Clean up the wiring with cased tubes, zip ties and electrical tape Have to fix the no dash lights/ wipers. Night time driving with only a tach light is cool but would like to see the speedo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 Here are some pics of the above fixes.... The Fuse box... Yes I have to clean up the wires... want to get all bugs figured out first. MAF extension. Not the best pics but when I get the car back up on jack stands I will take pics underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted October 28, 2013 Author Share Posted October 28, 2013 Car is much better. Will start 90% of the time. Is a little cold natured but can live with that. ONly issue is sometimes it will not fire. Have to unplug the 3 connections to the ecu and the 2 wires to the ignitor. This seems to relieve the draw from the battery. I then switch key to start to make sure the motor turns over freely. Once that is done replug all wires back in and wala car starts. What gives. I am going to disconnect the battery memory line to the ecu and see it that is it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Issue has been fixed. Not sure why this happened. I had 7 items running off the same ign on circuit. I removed all but the ign/coil ign on wire. Have all the rest set up on a seperate fuse box. This has solved the no start, coil lock up issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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