Jump to content
HybridZ

L28d iol cooler are they any good


Guest Anonymous

Recommended Posts

I run one in my 240/L28et. Oil temp never goes over 180 deg. I've read somewhere that taking 10 deg off your oil temp is as effective as taking 30 deg off you water temp. I converted over to AN fittings and aeroquip hose (one advantage of being an aircraft tech). A worthwhile mod - especially if you plan on running the car on a road course.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UGH!! I just typed a long reply it it was delted by some stupid Windows keystroke!

Ok, time to start over - this is a bit more abbreviated. Yes, an oil cooler is a great idea. Reduction of internal temps in the engine mean longer life for the parts/motor. In aircraft engines, the hotter you run the engine, the shorter time in between required overhauls. While we don't overhaul our motors based on how hot we operate them, using that principle can help our motors last longer. Besides, max power production is usually at 180-195 degrees F oil temp. As you start to get hotter, the oil doesn't work as well,(not going into detail there).

So bottom line, yes, it is a great idea and I would do it, esp. for a turbo motor. A couple of things to think about. First, if you are not already, use Synthetic oil. Synthetic oil can withstand higher temps than conventional oil. Most oils start to break down at about 300 degrees. Conventional oils turn into a sludge,(coking), think of black sludge. This blocks passages, etc.. Synthetic oil turns into ash, which can be transported by the oil into the filter. This is part of the reason why motors that have been run exclusively on synthetic are so clean when you take them apart. No sludge.

In my BMW, before I added an oil cooler I was seeing oil temps of 275-285 on the track. After the cooler, I saw a steady 190 on the street,(vice nearly 250), and 235 max on the track. I talked about the temp oils start to break down. Here is some other info. Most people measure the oil temp in the oil pan. The highest oil temp is in the cylinder head, and is usually 20-35 degrees higher than the oil sump where you are measuring. So anytime you start to see 270+ in the oil pan, back off and cool the motor down.

Second thing to make sure of, that have a turbo oil pump, (puts out more volume). If you already do, make sure it is in good condtion. You have just added pipes and radiators to the oil system, and the pump must now circulate it through that as well as the motor. If your pump isn't up to the task, oil pressure drops and you start to lose engine parts, like bearings, etc..

Go for it.

-Bob Hanvey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

thanks for that will deffenlatey get one. its grate that this helps so many pepole.you look like u are very noajable do u no much about total seal rings.are they that much better std ones thanks for all your help .later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My LD28/L28E hybrid runs very cool using a 180 degree thermostat and the LD28 oil/water cooler/heat exchanger. The overall temp of the engine (both water and oil) seems to be lower running this setup than a high compression L28 without it.

 

RE oil pumps, the L28ET has a higher flow pump than the na, and the L28ET with an AT comes stock with an oil/air cooler and it has an even higher flow/volume pump than the MT car. I haven't seen specs on the LD28 pump but it likely has a high flow/volume pump because it uses the oil/water cooler and it provides oil flow to an alternator-driven vacuum pump (has a drain tube back to the pan, just like a turbo). Anyone have the specs? DAW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

cool thanks for your advise .my freind offered me 1 for $100 will grab it of him .do you no any thing about total seal rings.are they that much better than std ones. and hpc coating can they flack off the manfiold and go thouth your tubo. thanks for all your help by

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aaron,

Total seal rings are a good product. If you were doing a complete rebuild of your motor I would consider them.

HPC coatings should not flake off your manifold. If you are coating a used manifold,(not new), then they only coat the outside, for the carbon deposits don't allow the coating to properly adhere to the manifold surfaces.

DAW- I always thought the same about the AT and MT turbo pumps. But evidence has been presented to me that shows both are the same, but still larger than the NA pump. Your assertion and my belief make sense because the Auto came with the oil cooler, not the MT. The specs are posted somehwere, but I seem to remember when I talked to Ron and NISSMO that he said all turbo pumps are the same size,(refering to the pump rotors). I still order the Auto pump though. I think I'll look into the diesel pump. That would be interesting. What is the year application of maxima? 82-83?

-Bob

{edit} Spelling and grammar -man too late for me, can't spell to save my life. {/edit}

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

thanks bob h should i do the vavles and sump as well does is it really make that much diffrance doing the vavles .total seal rings cost me 400 bucks. i hate living in nz i have to double price than pay heaps for fraght.thanks for all your help later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...