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About Bob_H

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    Norfolk, VA

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  1. I like what you did! what Vintage Connection kit did you end up using? I may need a similar one, replacing many, but not all the connectors. -Bobby
  2. Interesting that the traffic has declined - I never would have guessed. Absolutely still Datsun involved. I still have the first car I ever bought - my 73 240z and I don't intend to sell it. It's in storage at my parents in a state of disassembly that some day I'll tackle again. The 72 that houses this setup is my other Z. I'll search around on the FB groups/etc.. maybe Instagram. Odd, didn't realize all the traffic shifted. I see mostly FS posts on FB, not so much trying to get info on how to do things. I always saw them as hand in hand, but you never know! I'd gues
  3. Well, revive from the dead! Looks like most of the photobucket pics are back working again! Looking for some advice from the collective here. I'm still in the Navy, and this car has followed me from NC, up to Rhode Island, then back down here to Norfolk, VA where I'm currently stationed. I'm at a cross roads though - I may look to sell the full RB26 setup - front to back, intercooler, piping, RB25 trans, mounts, etc.. This includes the upgraded manifolds, GT Lemans turbos and downpipes. Not looking to sell the car. The question, if I did that, best place
  4. Yes, you can unscrew the part in the block and then use the OEM oil cooler/filter adapter. I have the exact setup on my Z and did just what I said, (remove the connection).
  5. IG account doesn't appear to be there- only a callout post from zleds showing the Z tailights w/their led setup.
  6. Thanks for pointing this out Tony- something I have been looking at- how to keep the period look w/new capabilities!
  7. Pretty sure that is an old Porsche color like this one: Name of the color is Signal Orange. That pic of the 240Z is under very bright light - so keep that in mind when comparing to pics of older 911's. Not sure how long this FS link will have pics: http://car-from-uk.com/sale.php?id=47374 Or I just googled Signal Orange Porsche: https://www.google.com/search?q=1970+porsche+911+orange And selected images.
  8. I think you don't need to go as wide as you are thinking. I would throw out the stock/OEM rim side of the equation because it assumes the stock rim was the largest you could fit under a stock fender which is not the case. You can fit a 7-8" wide rim under a stock fender on stock hubs. As such, I would stick with a 4" width increase. I have a 10 and 11" wide rims up front on my "Super Datsun" and it still has some room on the IMSA flares, (granted, not much). With just ZG flares, people are approaching 9-9.5" wide rims and the "wide ZG" flares accommodate out to 10 or slightly more with p
  9. I wish I could remember the source - but it was a very credible one, that told me the Z32 suspension is actually one of the best ones out there - as far as geometry, etc.. I'll see if I can fish it up, Found it! The guys name is Jim and he worked for Roush for a number of years on their Trans-Am cars and IMSA cars - here was the post: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25165&postcount=46 And I asked him here,(his post was at the end of the thread - he didn't give me any more info as by the time I reached back out, I had decided on the FD suspension). http://forums.c
  10. I'm curious since you have a FC rotary in there, did you look at or consider the 93-95 RX-7 front suspension setup? Same requirements, meets the same objectives and is a smaller package to an extent. I ask because already have a front and rear setup from a FD model RX-7 that I'll swap under my Z when I finish my current Z project. I've had that suspension for 10 years toting around with me on move to move! I'm going to be interested in how you tie that in up front. On edit - see it was a Turbo II. Corrected above. Also, some other questions/thoughts. And for the seating - if yo
  11. Healthy motor for sure! Do you have any plans to run it on a chassis dyno once installed? I'm always interested in the losses from engine dyno to chassis. When I ran my old stroker back in '97, it made about 220-225 on the engine dyno, (still have the printout like yours somewhere). RWHP ended up being just over 180 if I recall, maybe 185 rwhp? Makes me wonder if you'd break 300 at the tires? I think there are some rebello stroker combos out there that did hit in the 290 rwhp range. The stroker I have now is 255 rwhp with the Sunbelt head. It was Dan Baldwin's old setup, so I'd have
  12. Ok, I see what you are doing now. Next question it raises - once you determine how much is enough or "good" for a orafice size, do you plan to utilze the oil feed from the block through the head like a stock L6 or will it always be a dry mating at the head/block as far as oil is concerned?
  13. I had to look back through your old build thread - you have a very big sump area so not very suprising. To answer your #1 question, diamond is what I would do - nearly every good aftermarket pan I looked at had it setup that way. For the "why", my best thoughts as a long ago mechanical engineer would be that rarely are the forces purely side to side - they often have a component of accel or decel - so some of that fluid will move forward or aft as well as to the side. The diamond better handles that situation vs a square parallel to the sides of the sump. In pure fore/aft acceleratio
  14. Speaking of bellhousings - as I just moved everything up here from North Carolina - I have a RB to I think Muncie/Saginaw T10 bellhousing. I originally got it to adapt the G-Force G5R I had in my 240Z to the RB I wanted to put in. Ended up selling the G-5R and put the RB25 trans behind the RB26. These go for $650+ shipping from Australia - so cheaper than the above mentioned options, but not cheap! My model is BH 084. I'd have to fish through my paperwork from Castemaine Rod Shop when I ordered it all those years ago! If someone wants it, send me a message - I don't plan on using
  15. Ok - I have been following, but may have missed this part of the discussion - oil returns. Are the two lines you just ran the only oil return or are they suplementary like some of us do on the RB heads at the rear?
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