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Everything posted by Bob_H

  1. Interesting that the traffic has declined - I never would have guessed. Absolutely still Datsun involved. I still have the first car I ever bought - my 73 240z and I don't intend to sell it. It's in storage at my parents in a state of disassembly that some day I'll tackle again. The 72 that houses this setup is my other Z. I'll search around on the FB groups/etc.. maybe Instagram. Odd, didn't realize all the traffic shifted. I see mostly FS posts on FB, not so much trying to get info on how to do things. I always saw them as hand in hand, but you never know! I'd guess in the mid-teens will be my price to take this all off my hands. I still need to go through my documentation/old pics/etc.. and make sure I don't mis-represent the setup. -Bobby
  2. Well, revive from the dead! Looks like most of the photobucket pics are back working again! Looking for some advice from the collective here. I'm still in the Navy, and this car has followed me from NC, up to Rhode Island, then back down here to Norfolk, VA where I'm currently stationed. I'm at a cross roads though - I may look to sell the full RB26 setup - front to back, intercooler, piping, RB25 trans, mounts, etc.. This includes the upgraded manifolds, GT Lemans turbos and downpipes. Not looking to sell the car. The question, if I did that, best place to advertise? Bring a Trailer was a thought, but this is a fairly narrow market regardless. This is an ~12k mile motor, completely gone through, upgraded the oil pump, did all the gaskets, etc.. Good RB26 engines alone are back up in the 5-7k range, (yes, ragged high mileage ones are cheaper). This is a plug and play for any 240-280z person, (maybe modify the trans mount depending on your trans mount style). What does it need? Clutch was stock, that may be something someone wants to do. Is setup for the stock MAFs. If you want the larger Z32 size ones, the intake tubes have to be modified or get the upgraded NISMO ones that are the same size. Injectors are stock, computer and wiring is stock. Driveshaft is custom regardless - I'll include whatever stock RB driveshaft I had so someone has a starting point. For me to get this running - I need to give it fuel, and start it. And I may do just that as part of showing it is ready for sale as a plug and play. That's likely it. My guess is the current setup is good for around 400 whp if properly tuned, maybe 450,(but injectors are likely limit at that point). Turbos are good for more and I always tried to set it up for breathing so limits were fuel and camshafts, not piping and airflow. If I kept it, what would I do? Clutch since the oem one in there is used, might as well get an upgraded/new one. Aftermarket tuning of some kind - so many choices, need to do some recent research. If I got really brave - new larger injectors and then the tomei PON cams. That should put this setup somewhere close to 500 whp and would be plenty for the car. Might consider a ATI damper as I have the stock one. That's it. Those who have read this very, very long thread, know all the detail that went into it - the oil pan alone was a custom beast. If I recall, it also has a jun oil pump. So I'm looking to the collective here: -Best place to advertise if I did decide to sell the combo -Best guess on reasonable price? I have my own idea, but I don't want to poison the pot with my own opinion. Let me dig up the specs from within this thread and update this post with the engine details and intercooler/etc.. Well, I'll have to go into my file back home,(down visiting family right now) to get the specs on what I put in the engine. What I recall: Intercooler is PWR, link to their stuff here: https://www.pwr.com.au/products/intercoolers/air-to-air-intercoolers I got calico(?) coated bearings to replace the stock ones when I pulled everything apart. Full Nissan gasket replacements - went through everything, head, block, etc... Brand new timing belt, water pump and parts. Jun (I think - I'll pull the papers), oil pump I think HKS manifolds and down pipes with the GT Lemans turbos,(OEM for the lemans effort with the RB26). All the custom tubing as you can see. I had them do the supports for the intercooler to bolt into stock holes,(either radiator supports or the one you can see across the top cross member). Engine originally came from a Stagea 260RS - the station wagon version of the GT-R, the engine is the R33 model, even though the year of the engine was when the R34 car had come out,(there was a delay in switching to the R34 in the wagon if I recall). Bottom line - very low mileage engine, I paid a premium when I bought it to ensure I didn't get a crap one. I bought it in 2002 and it had I believe 10-15 km on it, again, I'll find the documents and some pics showing how clean the inside was when I tore it down. All thoughts are welcome and I'll update this early this week when I get into my files back home. -Bobby
  3. Yes, you can unscrew the part in the block and then use the OEM oil cooler/filter adapter. I have the exact setup on my Z and did just what I said, (remove the connection).
  4. IG account doesn't appear to be there- only a callout post from zleds showing the Z tailights w/their led setup.
  5. Thanks for pointing this out Tony- something I have been looking at- how to keep the period look w/new capabilities!
  6. Pretty sure that is an old Porsche color like this one: Name of the color is Signal Orange. That pic of the 240Z is under very bright light - so keep that in mind when comparing to pics of older 911's. Not sure how long this FS link will have pics: http://car-from-uk.com/sale.php?id=47374 Or I just googled Signal Orange Porsche: https://www.google.com/search?q=1970+porsche+911+orange And selected images.
  7. I think you don't need to go as wide as you are thinking. I would throw out the stock/OEM rim side of the equation because it assumes the stock rim was the largest you could fit under a stock fender which is not the case. You can fit a 7-8" wide rim under a stock fender on stock hubs. As such, I would stick with a 4" width increase. I have a 10 and 11" wide rims up front on my "Super Datsun" and it still has some room on the IMSA flares, (granted, not much). With just ZG flares, people are approaching 9-9.5" wide rims and the "wide ZG" flares accommodate out to 10 or slightly more with perfect offset. Here are some threads with those discussions: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/41406-4-sets-of-rs-watanabe-in-stock/?hl=%2Bwidest+%2Bunder+%2Bstock+%2Bfenders&do=findComment&comment=340575 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112168-what-size-aftermarket-rimstires-for-240z/page-2?hl=+widest%20+under%20+stock%20+fenders In short - the flare size you have in that pic would likely accommodate a 12" wide rim! Here was me asking similar questions way back when... This was me gathering the info on my FD suspension swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5922-what-is-your-track-width-front-and-rear-scottie-pete/?hl=%2Bwidest+%2Bunder+%2Bstock+%2Bfenders In it shows some good info for your purpose. In particular, look at what Pete Paraska fit under stock fenders and with what offsets - that shows about the max under a stock fender,(I think rolled), with coil-overs.
  8. I wish I could remember the source - but it was a very credible one, that told me the Z32 suspension is actually one of the best ones out there - as far as geometry, etc.. I'll see if I can fish it up, Found it! The guys name is Jim and he worked for Roush for a number of years on their Trans-Am cars and IMSA cars - here was the post: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25165&postcount=46 And I asked him here,(his post was at the end of the thread - he didn't give me any more info as by the time I reached back out, I had decided on the FD suspension). http://forums.corner-carvers.com/showthread.php?t=4809&highlight=z32+suspension+fd Jim doesn't roll out his credentials very often - but he was working on suspension design well over 30 years ago. That was the basis for my Z32 thoughts. In the end, where the upper arm mounted wasn't much of an option for me. You'll notice the Z33 is not a whole lot different beyond some aluminum parts. Sounds like you've got it worked out - I hope it works out great and you can finish before the season!
  9. I'm curious since you have a FC rotary in there, did you look at or consider the 93-95 RX-7 front suspension setup? Same requirements, meets the same objectives and is a smaller package to an extent. I ask because already have a front and rear setup from a FD model RX-7 that I'll swap under my Z when I finish my current Z project. I've had that suspension for 10 years toting around with me on move to move! I'm going to be interested in how you tie that in up front. On edit - see it was a Turbo II. Corrected above. Also, some other questions/thoughts. And for the seating - if you plan to drive this more than just at the races, you are almost 100% going to have to figure out a different seat. That just isn't enough room once you put in a steering wheel. Even with a removable one, just looks iffy on space. I think you will find very quickly that won't be ok for a daily driver. I'd invest in a good HANS type setup and go from there. Second thought/question: the G35 steering column - I don't think that will matter at all. The front steer/rear steer is just rack location. You can easily tie your Z rack into that. You might find all that "extra" junk on the G35 column is a lot of dead weight and space its taking up. I'd say sell that and just adjust the Z rack to work. In my assessment/opinion, fitting the G35 column up in the car,(dash/etc..), will outweigh any fab work required to mate the Z column to the G35 rack.
  10. Healthy motor for sure! Do you have any plans to run it on a chassis dyno once installed? I'm always interested in the losses from engine dyno to chassis. When I ran my old stroker back in '97, it made about 220-225 on the engine dyno, (still have the printout like yours somewhere). RWHP ended up being just over 180 if I recall, maybe 185 rwhp? Makes me wonder if you'd break 300 at the tires? I think there are some rebello stroker combos out there that did hit in the 290 rwhp range. The stroker I have now is 255 rwhp with the Sunbelt head. It was Dan Baldwin's old setup, so I'd have to fish through his posts to find the graph.
  11. Ok, I see what you are doing now. Next question it raises - once you determine how much is enough or "good" for a orafice size, do you plan to utilze the oil feed from the block through the head like a stock L6 or will it always be a dry mating at the head/block as far as oil is concerned?
  12. I had to look back through your old build thread - you have a very big sump area so not very suprising. To answer your #1 question, diamond is what I would do - nearly every good aftermarket pan I looked at had it setup that way. For the "why", my best thoughts as a long ago mechanical engineer would be that rarely are the forces purely side to side - they often have a component of accel or decel - so some of that fluid will move forward or aft as well as to the side. The diamond better handles that situation vs a square parallel to the sides of the sump. In pure fore/aft acceleration/decelaration - the square and diamond should perform the same. Your problem is in turns at the track - so you have slight accel with side loading - so the fluid/oil is trying to go to the side and back of the sump. (or if braking/slowing, to the side/front). That is my best guess - but that is not my area of expertise. As you observed, I just saw many competition pans built that way, so I used my logic above, and went with the diamond since I couldn't run calcuations either way. Second - I personally wouldn't worry about the drain at the back of the head - read back on post 14 for some more background info on why I would say that. That is Chiefrd who used to post here among other places and still builds very high end/high power RB motors,(and SRs, etc..) over in Japan.
  13. Speaking of bellhousings - as I just moved everything up here from North Carolina - I have a RB to I think Muncie/Saginaw T10 bellhousing. I originally got it to adapt the G-Force G5R I had in my 240Z to the RB I wanted to put in. Ended up selling the G-5R and put the RB25 trans behind the RB26. These go for $650+ shipping from Australia - so cheaper than the above mentioned options, but not cheap! My model is BH 084. I'd have to fish through my paperwork from Castemaine Rod Shop when I ordered it all those years ago! If someone wants it, send me a message - I don't plan on using it. I won't let it go for super cheap, but you wouldn't pay full price. I believe the bolt pattern is the same for RB20, 25, 26.
  14. Ok - I have been following, but may have missed this part of the discussion - oil returns. Are the two lines you just ran the only oil return or are they suplementary like some of us do on the RB heads at the rear?
  15. I will be watching this one to see what you eventually find out on the new one as well as the analysis of the failure of the old build.
  16. Link? Tried to find it, but I can't.
  17. Thanks- that car WILL run under its own power someday! A high compliment from you, thank you. If I wasn't so concerned with getting it all right, I would have finished and driven and likely sold it years ago... There is a lot to be said about simple and running. Once this is done starts the project I've been dreaming and thinking of for 15+ years- my first car, a 73 z, swapped with a full FD RX7 suspension, 3.1L w/300+ hp, and other mods for track and daily driving. I have all the parts, just need to have the time and space for the fab work involved. That is why I like your orange one so much- ITB L6, old school style. The red one is great b/c it pushed the known limits at the time in many ways. Both have their strengths. I could count on one hand the number of people I had knowledge of who had 400+ rwhp with the L6 turbo back in the late 90's and early 2000's. Much easier and more know how to today- the Internet and fast evolution of turbo and Engine management has put that knowledge and capabilities in the hands of many. I remember getting most of my info on the 3.1 swap from talking with Rebello himself on a visit to his shop, a well know Z shop in Northern Cali, and some calls to those who built one previously- and some info from Steve Golick's write up on IZCC. All back in early '96-97. Pioneering is what your Red Z was doing along with others- much like your all new car project. Best of luck and I'll be following!
  18. Glad to see you back at it again! I remember reading about all the work on your Red car back when I had bought my RB in '01-'02 and was getting ready to be one of the first with that swap...... I've towed it all over the country its the Navy making progress at each stop. Seeing you move quickly on yours is good motivation. Don't go to the trouble to the red going, then swap it for a RB after the fact, start with a completed swap like mine! . Well, not running yet...life and kids did it for me as well. But, some motivation for you: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50059-documentary-of-the-super-datsun-resurrection/ Having issues on an ipad linking some of the pics properly- so here is a picture link to scroll through them: http://s464.photobucket.com/user/rehanvey/library/datsun?sort=3&page=1 Someone else can post the proper img code to pop up good shot of the engine or car. Keep up the updates- motivation for the rest of us! Bobby
  19. Good to hear that is a strong engine. His attention to detail in setup and other areas of the car show the thoroughness in which it was approached. That is what caught my eye almost more than the head itself.
  20. This is on my list when I upgrade mine to throttle bodies. I may use the firewall adapter for the cables to go to my RB26 throttles in my other Z since I don't have a solution right now and nothing jumps out to me until now....
  21. Is that your "spook" lower front air Dam? Looks extended vs a regular BRE spook. I like it, and the pic shows both products looking good. Mis there more pics of this car somewhere?
  22. Tony - thanks. The picture of what is cut away is above your post. Prod date, 4/74. So the mount screwed in just forward of the cut is wider/not there for the 260z consoles and won't affect it. I still have the fuse box mount attached, so that should be good as well. It appears the 260z,(early, no Cat), that is in the pick-n-pull will work great. Just what I needed - thanks!
  23. Thanks for the reply- I'm familiar with the trans mount differences and that part is intact and I guess I wasn't clear in my description. The part I'm interested in is the area above- from just behind the fuse box mount to just behind the shifter hole. I'll see if I can put a picture of the cut out area. Bottom line, this car had a side mount shifter,(think old chevy/ford transmissions with the levers/ linkages on the side)- that area was cut and new metal fab'd in. I cut the new stuff out and now want it back stock so I can put the console/etc back on. Key is, a 240z console, not a 260 or 280z console which is wider up front.
  24. I tried to search, no luck. I have a 72 240z with some portion of the trans tunnel cut away. I found a 74 260z in the pick and pull - does anyone know if the transmission tunnels are the same? I just need to cut a big section out so I can graft it into mine. The 260 will be going to the crusher - so all the better to get it now! I know the center console is different, but the rest looks almost identical to me? Thanks! Bobby
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