Stub Axle Flange Rubbing on the Face of the Hub (Bearing Carrier)

[Miles]

It sounds, from your measurements, like everything is fine.

 

I'll go ahead and reassemble the axle and road test. 

[Miles]

The end play was caused by the inner bearing not being seated completely. The inner bearing moved off its seat when I hammered the axle and outer bearing  into the hub.  So i used the old inner bearing as a drift  and tapped the inner bearing into its seat. The  axle spins free there is no end play.  Now on to the driver's side bearing replacement and road test.

[RebekahsZ]

When I did my disc brake conversion, I assembled the brakes with the stub axle nut only hand tight just for mock-up.  The brakes dragged miserably.  I hit the nuts with an air impact wrench (carefully) and the brakes stopped dragging.  I can't get a torque wrench on the nuts until the brakes are fully working to restrain tire rotation. But, it appears that the torque on that nut makes a big difference in the lateral locating of the flange, and I imagine bearing preload too.  I wouldn't make any final decisions until you put 200 ft-lbs on that sucker.  Use antiseize and be super careful starting that nut straight and smoothly!  I don't want to bugger a stub axle (again).

[Miles]

When I did my disc brake conversion, I assembled the brakes with the stub axle nut only hand tight just for mock-up.  The brakes dragged miserably.  I hit the nuts with an air impact wrench (carefully) and the brakes stopped dragging.  I can't get a torque wrench on the nuts until the brakes are fully working to restrain tire rotation. But, it appears that the torque on that nut makes a big difference in the lateral locating of the flange, and I imagine bearing preload too.  I wouldn't make any final decisions until you put 200 ft-lbs on that sucker.  Use antiseize and be super careful starting that nut straight and smoothly!  I don't want to bugger a stub axle (again).

 

I'll keep this in mind when re-installing the 240SX calipers.  

 

Before you tightened the nut down with the impact wrench were the inside or the outside pads dragging?

[RebekahsZ]

Oh goodness, I don't know.

[Miles]

Finally got back to this.

 

I replaced the bearings and rechecked the hub runout at 0.001 in.  Also rechecked the new rotor runout at 0.003 in. The hub and rotor runout occur along the same radial from the center of the hub. So the hub is warped/bent which may have happened when I ran the right rear wheel up onto a curb while making a right hand turn about two years ago.

 

Additionally, I can see/feel  play in the hub if I grab the hub at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions and push in and out. But there is no play if I grab the hub at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions.

 

So it looks like there are two problems:

 

1. The bearing carrier in the hub must be warn allowing the axle to slop in and out.
2. The hub of the stub axle in bent.

The only fix will be to replace the strut and stub axle since both appear to be damaged.

 

This has been a long road starting with my post on overheating rear calipers. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114866-importance-of-floating-rear-caliper-being-centered-on-rotor/

Edited December 24, 2013 by Miles

[Miles]

Update:

 

The problem was caused by bent stub axle flanges. I couldn't find good used stub axles so I bought new stub axles from Chequered Flag Racing and replaced the bearings. All  is well now.

 

 

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Edited April 18, 2014 by Miles