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Everything posted by Miles

  1. Walkerbk: Please post If you are able come up with a fix. I ended up removing my brake switch and using a three-way connector to connect the two two front brake lines.
  2. I recommend to all Z car owners to buy this book available at Amazon: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble It details how to disassemble, restore and re-assemble 240z cars. It contains step by step instructions. It has saved me hours and hours of research. Remove the black door lock plunger knob Remove the arm rest, door handle chrome cover under door handle and then the door panel. Remove three bolts holding the door mechanism to the door Remove the activating rod pivot screw Remove two bolts holding the door release handle and unhook the activating rod from the door handle
  3. This worked for me when the nose of the hood wouldn't align with the headlight buckets: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42496-hood-alignment/ To lower the hood, you have to tilt the hood. Get the hood wide open, loosen the 2x 2 bolts between the hinges & the hood. Then push gently with your knee on the bottom side, where the emblem is, and pull towards you the top. Clamp the bolts. That will create a rotation motion of the hood that will lower the front while it will be closed. Try to close it gently since hood might still rub against the fenders. To center it, you have to play with top/bottom position with a translation, still with the same bolts. If it is too far on the left, you have to lower the right side & to rise left side. I know how it works, I still fight each time I want to put everything back together.
  4. Contact Dave Irwin. He is the most knowledgeable man on the planet when it comes to Z car electrical systems/parts/upgrades On Hybridz Dave goes by HLS30-08077 https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/1483-hls30-08077/content/page/7/?type=forums_topic_post On Classic Z Cars he goes by: Zs-ondabrain https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/4156-zs-ondabrain/ He has a business that builds electrical add-ons for Z cars: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/what-s-new/
  5. Identify the hard line that connects the MC to the front brakes. Relocate the larger reservoir to the MC section that has the front hard line connected to it. Be sure the clamps that hold the larger reservoirs on are tight. Done.
  6. What was the last thing you did to the car before the fuse started blowing? After getting my car painted, the paint shop reversed the wires on a marker light so power went to a dead short.
  7. This helped me align my hood: https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/body-paint/hood-alignment-primer-r59/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/3702-hood-alignment/ Also, search the body sections of Hybridz and ClassicZcar for a member named "EScanlon". He is the go-to body panel/hood alignment guy.
  8. I am not surprised that your Wilwood 1 inch MC is leaking internally. I bought three in the past to replace my 79 280zx MC. Two of the three leaked internally right out of the box as I was bench bleeding them and the other one had the bleeder screws mashed which made it impossible to bleed. Other have had problems as well. Zero quality control. Dave at Arizona Z Cars sells the 15/16 MC.
  9. 1972 240Z SBC 350 My brake set up: Front - Toyota calipers with solid stock rotors Rear - 240SX calipers with 300zx solid rotors. Booster - 280z 8.5in Master Cylinder - 1979 280zx 15/16in Carbotech AX6 compound I have experimented with all of the so called "performance street pads" available over the last 20 years. They all suck for street use. Every one of them lacked good cold bite which is what you want driving in traffic. Some of them were like using wood blocks for pads. About four years ago I replaced the front and rear pads on my 240Z with Carbotech AX6 pads. They have excellent cold bite which get gets better as they heat up. I have intentionally heated up the front brakes until smoke was rolling out of the fenders and there was no fade at all. They are expensive, but if you mention that you belong to HybridZ they will give you a 10% discount. You can buy directly from the company: https://ctbrakes.com/
  10. Flathead Ford V8 in a Fox body Mustang
  11. Ford Flathead V8 in a 1968 Camaro SS https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/a-flathead-ford-powered-chevy-camaro-looks-like-it/ Has anyone put a flathead in a Z car?
  12. It is an almost 50 year old car. Restoration is a given. I did a ground up restomod on my 240z 10 years ago and the car has been reliable and a joy to drive. My wiring was still like new so I didn't have to mess with that. If you decide to do a rebuild spend a lot of time planning and estimating costs.
  13. Yes, but not too much. After identifying the fin that was rubbing, I used a grinding wheel to remove enough material to stop the rubbing.
  14. Go to Z therapy website and buy the video "JUST SUs" it will explain how the SU carb works and how to tune it. Watch the video over and over again until you understand the SU tuning procedure before tinkering with the carbs. https://www.ztherapy.com/
  15. This is the damper I used. It is 6.25" diameter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flu-620101
  16. Factory brakes are designed as a system. Change one component and it has a domino affect. You will need to consider brake bias in your decision on matching front brakes to the Mustang brake you already have. I recommend that you read up on front to rear brake bias before making a decision on any front brake install. Brake bias is covered extensively in the Brake Forum.
  17. Can't recommend a front brake system without knowing the details for the rear brakes you have. Need to know what rotor size and calipers are on the car now. Yes, the information on the link for the Toyota swap is correct, but I do not recommend the Wilwood MC as I had three of them fail - two of which leaked internally right out of the box. My set up is: Front - Toyota calipers, solid rotors and Carbotech AX6 pads. Unless you are racing you do not need vented front calipers. Rear - 240SX calipers, 300zx rotors (non turbo) and Carbotech AX6 pads. Booster - 9 inch 280z Master cylinder - 15/16 280ZX purchased from Arizona Z Car. Tried the Wilwood 1 inch MC three times but they all failed. SS flex lines Brake bias calculations: Front - 60% Rear - 40% Toyota calipers clear my 15in Ansen slotted wheels. I have had this setup for 12 years and it works well for street driving. The only thing I don't like is that the pedal travel is a bit long. The Carbotech AX6 pads have the best cold bite of any pad I have ever used and the bite gets better when the pads heat up. These pads never fade. I have heated them up to smoking hot and there was no fade.
  18. I have done two 240z restorations (2001 and 2009) and was able to use the Precision kit for everything, but the doors, windshield and outer hatch seals. My windshield and hatch seals are OEM and they fit perfectly. Re: Vintage Rubber. It was my understanding that they were making their own rubber seals from scratch. All you can do is call them and ask if they are just selling the Precision seals or making new seals. https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/240-z/?sort=featured&page=1 Also, for current restoration information, try researching the Precision kit at the Classic z Car Club: https://www.classiczcars.com/ Lastly, I recommend this book for anyone restoring/working on a 240z/260z/280z: "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble. Available at Amazon. Hint: For the windshield and hatch seals, install the stainless steel trim in the seal before installing it in the car. And the rope trick works perfect. If I were doing this today, my first choice would be OEM seals and maybe Vintage Rubber after a complete review of their products. For certain the Precision windshield and hatch seals were deformed in the corners and impossible to use.
  19. I wasted a lot of money on Precision seals. Could never get the door, windshield and hatch seals to work. Used OEM windshield and hatch seals and they fit perfectly. For the door seals I used Pep Boys generic seals - cheap and they have worked for 12 years..
  20. "In the ignition switch, there's your standard contacts for the accessory power, ignition power, and starter relay, but there's also a pin that heads to the coil via the tach. This wire is also joined to the ignition pin through a resistor. Am I interpreting this correctly when I conclude that since I'll be using coil-on-plug and an aftermarket tach that I can omit this wire? " Do you mean the green - white wire? On cars with point type distributor, this wire is attached to the (+) side of the coil and was intended to provide a full 12 volts to the distributor during cranking. If you are using an HEI distributor or some other ignition you can use this wire to run the electric fuel pump while cranking. The ignition switch energizes this wire wire just before engaging the starter which makes it handy for filling the bowels on carburetor equipped cars before cranking the engine. Or do you mean the Black - White wire with protective sleeve? This wire provides power to the distributor or HEI dist. or other ignition system Here is how I wired my SBC 350 with an HEI distributor: GRN - WHT Attach to fuel pump side of oil pressure safety switch so fuel pump will operate during starter operation YLW - BLK Oil pressure gauge BLK-WHT without protective sleeve TACH terminal on HEI distributor. Used only with 280Z tach BLK-WHT with protective sleeve BAT terminal on HEI distributor. This is the wire that provides power to the HEI distributor or other ignition system. YLW-WHT Water temp gauge WHT - RED (thick) Alternator terminal. Use 14 ga. Fusible Link. 280Z BLUE WIRE Not used WHT Positive terminal on starter BLK - YLW Starter S terminal
  21. Try an auto paint store in your area. SEM works well.
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