Zmanj87 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) So as the title says I just got done taking my old alt out to replace it with a 83 280zx 60 amp.So when I took out the old altenator I looked at the ID tag on it and it sayslt160-87b-r part number 23100-v1502 refab at NissanPosted t his a as well in ignition and electrical..So I looked it up and sure enough it's a 60 amp that may of came from a 77 810?Now from the looks up it the wires haven't been changed and the VR is still on the car and connected.Now there's some other stuff connected to the car where the fusible links and VR are connected that I don't know what it is...I'll take pictures in the morning to show..So did the PO just not bother to do the wiring and just installed a 60 amp and it works? Don't know if after you INSTALL A 60 amp that your amp sensor in car would read past the middle? Mine still reads slightly over the middle.. Edit: Pictures added Edited February 11, 2014 by Zmanj87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliasct Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Looking up that alt I can see that it needs an external regulator, so the set up with the external regulator is correct. Not sure why they went for an alt that wasn't specified for the Z, but no worries I suppose. I would go ahead with the swap as planned. As far as the fusible links, that whole mess sure ain't stock. You should have a second set of fusible links as far as I'm aware, so... Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 More clarity - an alternator option for the 73 240Z's, and the standard for the 280Z's, was a 60 amp alternator. Only the early 240Z's had the 40 or 50 amp units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks for the reply guys! More clarity - an alternator option for the 73 240Z's, and the standard for the 280Z's, was a 60 amp alternator. Only the early 240Z's had the 40 or 50 amp units. So what your saying is that 280z came with 60 amp already? From what I read on the AtlanticZ guide he made it seemed they all had 50 AMPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Looking up that alt I can see that it needs an external regulator, so the set up with the external regulator is correct. Not sure why they went for an alt that wasn't specified for the Z, but no worries I suppose. I would go ahead with the swap as planned. As far as the fusible links, that whole mess sure ain't stock. You should have a second set of fusible links as far as I'm aware, so... Good luck ya that's what I figured there should be 2... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Also just to be clear the wires I'm swapping are on the connector that connects to the VR right? just splice the colors together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks for the reply guys! So what your saying is that 280z came with 60 amp already? From what I read on the AtlanticZ guide he made it seemed they all had 50 AMPS Yes, the 280Z's came with 60 amp alternators. The only reason to swap to an internal regulator would be for fewer parts, or better dependability (assuming that one internally regulated alternator is better than the external system), or just for the fun of doing electrical work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Also just to be clear the wires I'm swapping are on the connector that connects to the VR right? just splice the colors together? If I was going to do the swap again I would cut the plug off of the old external reg and connect the wires there. It will look better and be reversible. If you're doing a 76 you might find that you have a battery drain when you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Yes, the 280Z's came with 60 amp alternators. The only reason to swap to an internal regulator would be for fewer parts, or better dependability (assuming that one internally regulated alternator is better than the external system), or just for the fun of doing electrical work. Gotcha well that's good to know now...lol Eh might as well whole reason I got the car is because I love S30s and to learn more about automotive repairs and mods! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) If I was going to do the swap again I would cut the plug off of the old external reg and connect the wires there. It will look better and be reversible. If you're doing a 76 you might find that you have a battery drain when you're done. So what your saying is you would take the plug that is on the OLD VR cut it off and use the wires on it to splice onto the plug that connects to the VR and just plug the connectors together pretty much looping the it?? Sorry for the Madden style pictures....Best way for me to explain myself and comprehend! Also my car is a 75 280z Edited February 6, 2014 by Zmanj87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 That's my thought. No need to cut up the original harness and the plug holds all the loose ends together. Just one way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) So I did the splice hope this is what you were talking about! Edited February 7, 2014 by Zmanj87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 So I just tried to put the neg cable on the battery and it started sparking from the terminal and I heard the fusible link hissing and then I disconnected the battery Any ideas to why this happen did I not configure the wires properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Switched positive for negative? Cable colors are often backward on the old Z cars. That's another benefit of using the plug. Unplug it and you'll know if your wiring is wrong or something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 this is how I looped the connector from the VG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 this is how I figured on looping them Does the ground cable actually need to be grounded?? I just capped it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 So i disconnected the cap and touched the Neg to the terminal and its still sparks.... could it have to do with how I have the wires connected to the swapped Alt?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 So I disconnected the cable that connects the battery to the Alt and there's no more sparks.....?? only thing I don't have connected on the Alt is the condenser... tho I didn't think that was a big deal since it's mainly for storing the energy field so it doesn't ,mess with the radio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Sounds like you have the main charging wire connected to ground somehow. The big white wire. Did you connect it to the ground (E) post by accident? Instead of B, for battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 No it was connected to the B post for sure its the one that has the long bolt coming out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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