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NewZed last won the day on July 21

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  • Birthday 01/01/1960

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  1. This thread is way old. Welcome to the forum.
  2. I did not understand what you were describing before. Any chance that you can just twist the shaft housing using brute force? Might be that somebody already did and that's why it is not aligned correctly. Check the mounting bracket for broken welds. I don't know if it is brazed or tacked in to the mounting bracket but an examination should tell you something.
  3. Might be that the column has been partially collapsed. Read up on how it works. This is from the 1973 FSM. I don't know if it stays collapsed or rebounds.
  4. Koni is back. Not sure how they handle lowering, MSA probably knows. They might have springs to match. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-1034 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-1033
  5. Just saw this on ClassicZCars.com. https://whiteheadperformance.com/
  6. Seems like you're solving the puzzle. Not sure what the big silver torpedo shape is at the hose fitting but it looks like your bleed screw is on the bottom. Better swap the calipers before trying to bleed. Bleed screw on top. Where the air bubble will be. Good luck. Whitehead just seems to be living off of their old reputation. I wonder if the original owners are even involved today. Maybe they'll survive, who knows.
  7. What do you mean by this? Here are AZC's own pictures. Looks like some good clues there. Your pictures just show some parts and a tape measure. Not clear what's not fitting. https://arizonazcar.com/brakes
  8. Are you using the factory EFI system? There's a bunch in this sub-forum - https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/
  9. Leaky booster sounds right. The symptoms fit. The IACV setup on your engine was just an attempt to use the computer to control idle. Won't hurt anything to leave it off. You need to start reading about aftermarket engine control. DIYAutotune has some good articles. Also, the Megasquirt pages. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/ https://megasquirt.info/educational/
  10. Yes, that looks like quite the assemblage of parts. I think that I see an idle air control valve (IACV), not sure, I pasted it below. That would be where the idle speed is controlled by computer. If it is completely closed and the idle is still high then the throttle blade bypass (idle air bypass) might be too far open. Or you have vacuum leaks. Look at your AEM software for an IACV setting. You could even just disconnect that hose and block the port to see if idle speed drops. If it doesn't check the throttle body for an idle speed screw. I wonder what that rubber hose is going to do under boost?
  11. Download an FSM and open the Engine Fuel chapter. You'll need all of the parts shown there if you want to go back to stock EFI. You need a lot more parts than what's in that ad. AFM, injectors, sensors, ECU, etc. Or aftermarket engine management. Make a list of what you have now. It's a complex project. Be careful with those aftermarket parts. Many of them have never been tested on a running engine before they're put on the market. They look neat but might not perform.
  12. Here's a link. I'd add a resistor. It's the heat that kills them so you probably haven't done any damage. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/04/27/ask-away-jeff-smith-keep-killing-alternators/ " On most late model alternators, if the warning light circuit is not employed, running without that resistance in the circuit will cause the alternator to fail. On the plug-in connector, there are four connections labeled P-L-I/F-S. The connector labeled “L” is the only terminal (of these four) you will need to connect to the vehicle. If you choose to not connect a warning light in line (in series) with the wire terminated at switched (12v) power, then you must include a resistor. Our friends at Powermaster recommend an 82 ohm, 5-watt resistor. You can find these at an electronics store or online through a company called Mouser Electronics for less than $1."
  13. I am not 100% sure that you shouldn't have some resistance on that circuit. You might want to search around bit to be sure. Normally the Lamp offers resistance in to the alternator, and blocks the current coming back. It would be a bummer to overheat the circuit in the alternator and possibly damage it. You could put a resistor in line or even a light to be safe. Or, even better, a fuse. Or both. 10 amp would probably be about right.
  14. It doesn't need to turn off after the engine is running. But you might need to install a diode in the circuit. When the alternator is charging the current flows the other way. That's why the Charge light goes out. It can keep the engine running after you turn the key off because it's feeding the system through the wire. Look up the 240Z alternator swaps to see what I mean. Check the wires in the external regulator plug to see if one of them is switched power. I seem to remember that one of them was, besides the L wire. I had a 76 too. Here are a couple of links showing the diode. If you find a switched power wire at the old plug area you could probably just wire it up there. Or try it without a diode and see what happens. You can always drop the clutch while in gear to kill the engine if it stays running. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-alternator-upgrade/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/46888-240z-alternator-upgrade-instructions-w-pictures/
  15. Yes. You'll need to supply switched power to that terminal on the alternator.
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