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NewZed last won the day on March 19

NewZed had the most liked content!

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About NewZed

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  • Birthday 01/01/1960

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    Washington County, Oregon

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  1. The wiring diagram might help. Looks like both wires get power so turning the key on won't tell you anything. One wire is the ground for the CSV and the other wire is the power to the internal heater in the thermotime switch. If you still have the bullet connectors in the harness you could use those to figure it out. One pin of the switch will have resistance from the internal heater (the curly line in the drawing). The other one will be very low resistance since it supplies the ground for the CSV through the switching portion. Measure resistance through the pins to ground, th
  2. Just go ahead and start a thread with a big For Sale in the title. If it catches someone's eye they'll follow-up, if not your diff will get sold. You paid, so you have a legitimate usage of the site to sell parts, per the agreement as a member. Not really sure what's happening with the site. I think that SuperDan has lost interest. Or maybe something has happened to him. Classiczcars.com has a Parts for Sale page, and they like LSD diffs too. Good luck.
  3. I think that what you're proposing is not the way that most people would get to a larger booster. Which is really all that you're trying to do. Swapping to a completely different pedal box to get a bigger booster seems like a more difficult path than necessary.
  4. This part sounds like a failing ignition module. They overheat and stop working then start working after they cool off. Often they will stop working after getting the engine up to higher RPM. That's one way to test it, run it up to high RPM, watch the tachometer needle for weird behavior and see if it keeps running. This part is normal. Those lights are supposed to be on when the engine is not running, but the key is on. They should both turn off when the engine starts.
  5. It's been two days and the people who donated still haven't been acknowledged. The site seems to be on autopilot, nobody's at the helm.
  6. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131736-account-shows-no-donations-after-i-made-one/?do=findComment&comment=1229246
  7. Put some jackstands under the rear control arms, start it up, and run it through the gears. Don't do it with the wheels hanging the u-joints will probably bind from the angle.
  8. That's going to be a 3.54 ratio open diff. Not even close.
  9. Here's a sampling from a commercial vendor. https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/240z-260z-280z-r180-r200-diff-differential-lsd-limited-slip/
  10. I've never done it but I've seen that most of the big cam shops can recommend a cam based on parts and plans. Probably also the drive gears and other odds and ends. They want people to call. https://www.compcams.com/products/comp-camshafts.html
  11. Actually, 76 does have a top gear switch actuated solenoid that controls the vacuum to the vacuum advance module on the distributor. One of those emissions things. There are a lot of different 5 speeds out there. Some of the ZX 5 speeds have neutral, top gear, reverse, and overdrive switches, at least the FSM says they do. I removed my top gear solenoid when I got a 5 speed and just let the vacuum advance happen in all gears. Ran great. Just connect the hoses or run a new one to the same port on the TB. I think I've seen it described somewhere in the FSM
  12. You might also pull the distributor to see if the drive gear is damaged. Apparently they get damaged often if the wrong gear material is chosen. Here's a good story. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/selecting-the-correct-distributor-gear-its-all-about-the-details/
  13. No need to apologize. It doesn't sound like you need a new distributor. Your mechanic is suggesting that the distributor timing is off. The chevy small block distributor is driven by the camshaft, which is driven by the timing chain. It sounds like your mechanic thinks that you've lost cam and distributor because the timing chain or timing gear is not working right. That fits with the fuel spitting back through the carburetor. The valves aren't opening and closing correctly. Unfortunately it might also mean bent valves. A simple way to check would be to measure cy
  14. People probably saw your other post. You wrote a lot of stuff but it looks like you just want to know which distributor you should buy. Your new post has the same misspellings and bad grammar and run-on punctuation. Really hard to read. Couldn't you have spruced it up a little bit? Looks like you drank ten cups of coffee before writing it. Why don't just fix the one you have? It's just a small block chevy distributor.
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