NewZed

You're jumping around from idea to idea. Follow the power from the battery to the pump. Come back and post where you last saw voltage. The "Ign" fusible link then pin 93 of the fuel pump relay are your first two spots to check.

The hoses get small lengthwise cracks in them and leak, a common problem. Replacing the hose is a service procedure shown in the FSM, page EF&EC-52, it's easy. Use 5/16" EFI high pressure EFI hose. You can get it at any auto parts store. You should replace the injector-manifold seals also, they're cheap and simple too. Odds are it's the hose, not the injector. Injectors rarely leak externally.

Here's a good "71C" writeup from a Hybridz member. R200 swap info is all over the internet. https://www.motortopia.com/members/Nigel/mediapress/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/

What happened to it? Is the site going the way of zcar? Odd problems seem to be building up.

Three separate thread attempts, two of them wouldn't open, the third has no means to reply.

Nicoclub has their service manuals back up. 92 wouldn't load but 91 did. Might have some good info there. https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-300zx-factory-service-manuals.html

I don't know the details of the 92 TT. I had a 95 Pathfinder though and it's belt was good for 100,000. The earlier VG30E models were good for 60,000 I think. 27,000 is almost new in either case. Yours is the rounded tooth variety which is the 100,000 mile design, the others had squared teeth. Doesn't seem like belt wear would be the issue. The fact that one cylinder climbed to 150 suggests that the valve timing is close enough, since they're all tied to the same belt. Probably bent valves or broken piston/rings on the bad ones. Turbos tend to damage pistons. You still might check the rocker arms and lifters though. I don't know if the hydraulic lifters leak down enough to keep the valves from opening. That would give a low pressure reading because no air gets drawn in, because the valves don't open. Is their oil in the crankcase? Dip stick at full? Most cylinder pressure gauges have a valve that needs to be opened to release the pressure between tests. Not sure that just leaving the gauge on will tell you about leak down, it will just read the last highest pressure in the gauge. You're supposed to pressurize the cylinder using an external air supply for a leak down test. Sounds like you definitely have dead and damaged cylinders though. Doesn't look like readjusting the timing belt is going to fix your problem. If you've already been spinning the engine maybe you should just put it back together and start it on the remaining cylinders. It will run like crap but it's messed up anyway.

The belt seems close and the numbers are very low. But if it's been sitting in a field for years the cylinders might be rusty. Adding oil to the cylinders would make that problem better. You could remove a valve cover and look at rocker arms and valve ends. You could also do a leak down test. The belt doesn't look terrible. Seems more likely that somebody just did a poor job on a belt change or some maintenance work. I think that they're usually much more worn when they slip. The teeth wear out or break off.

Here's a database that might have something. A pain to work through, very clunky, and not intuitive https://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/index.cfm?setvin=&bodyColor=&trimColor=&BODY=CALC&ENGINE=KA24DE&TRIMLVL=SE&TRANS=MT&action=replacement&setAttributes=true&jointvehid=9359&siteid=14&groupid=F&sectionid=320

It might help to get in to the details of how the bleeder screws work. There's a narrow cone shaped seat on the bottom of the screw that plugs the hole in the caliper. When you loosen the screw the fluid is released and flows in to the small hole next to the screw seat then up through the middle of the bleeder screw. All that matters for stopping leaks is how the cone shaped seat fits in to the hole. Reman calipers often have poor seats for the screw. So inspect the hole carefully, and make sure that the seats are clean and smooth. You should not have to tighten the screws very much if the sealing surfaces are in good shape. Here's a picture I stole from the internet and where I got it. I don't know if I agree with the guy but he takes a good picture. I added some red lines to show the gouge in the screw from where it seats in the caliper. http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/2014/05/15/brake-bleed-valves/

"the nipple won't stop bleeding" doesn't make sense. What do you mean? Maybe you could rephrase the question. It does sound painful though...

If you don't define it then you're kind of just throwing it around like everyone else. "Military" does not necessarily mean "high quality". Most of us respect the military, but "mil spec" is just another standard set of specifications. To be precise you need to give the spec number. "mil spec" for a desk lamp might not be the spec you're looking for. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States_Military_Standard

Still....

I see now that he's in the FAQ section. I thought that this problem was going to be fixed. People can start new threads but nobody can reply. Doesn't make sense. His first two posts had "too many redirects" and wouldn't open even though they were in the right place.

The headlight dimmer switches get gummed up on these old cars and stop the headlights from working. You can spray contact cleaner in to the base of the stalk and work it back and forth and they might start working. Or the fuses could be blown. There are several places on the internet where you can download a service manual. You should do that, they're very thorough. What's up with the drill motor? Is it for scale?

What are your plans? "runs" doesn't seem like much to make a choice on. Pick the one that has least amount of the type of work you hate.

Isn't the "cooling fluid" thing just a myth. Some strut manufacturers recommend against it. https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/installation-tips/strut-cartridge-installation/ The same struts are often spec'ed for both 240Z and 280Z. The difference is the length in the back. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,suspension,strut,7584 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,strut,7584 If a person considers the basics of what the gland nut does when a cartridge is used, things get simpler. It just centers the cartridge and applies clamping force. Shims and collars can be sued to make gland nut cavity smaller, or a lathe to make it bigger. Just some thoughts. It's just a shock absorber in a tube if you use the original strut tubes.

You can get those new for pretty cheap. One of the suppliers had a kit with the steel washers also, don't know if it still does. Credit CO on classiczcars.com for that knowledge. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,suspension,strut+rod+bushing,7608 This one apparently came with the backing washers - https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,45G25036,strut+rod+bushing,7608 Amazon and eBay sell it also.

Never mind. Not sure.

I never would have imagined that Germany could be more screwed up than the USA, in the area of motor vehicles. You're saying the "test" is almost completely subjective? You pass if you get a good engineer, fail if you get a bad one? That's goofy. In that case, use the Toyota calipers up front and 240SX rear brakes. Shiny new big. Good thing they don't look at the wheel and suspension parts. Good luck.

When I read your first post I thought that you meant that you needed disc brakes on all four wheels. Why do you need to change the calipers on the front? Why can't you leave the Z calipers on? What is the specification that you are trying to meet? It can't be just "change".

The heights are the same. If you want to use it you could rig up a clamping mechanism. You could at least install it and test it out to see if it was the problem.

There is a a lot of good material to read in the sub-forum that grannyknot linked, plus the specific brake balance thread. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/80-brakes-wheels-suspension-and-chassis/

Well, that's a bummer. Odd requirement. Since you already have disc brakes up front, then swapping to ZX discs in the back might meet their requirements, and give a balanced system. Seems simplest and most likely to work well when you're done. Miles knows a lot about brakes @Miles