NewZed

Any way to get the site to show Topics only with new posts contained under the Topic title. Looking at a half a page of the same Topic because it has the most new posts doesn't work well. The other guys do it that way and it works. Hybridz "Activity" choices are pretty slim.

Kind of looks like a VG30 pattern except for a missing hole or two. This is from the 1995 Pathfinder 71C transmission. They look about right along the top. Clutch and fly wheels interchange to a certain extent from VG to the L series engines.

I built a similar mount in preparation for using a 71C swap in a 280Z. Nissan refers to the transmission mount as the rear engine mount. It's not working alone, it's working in conjunction with the two front mounts, so doesn't really see the motions and loads that you think it might. Forward and backward as you brake and accelerate, and up and down over bumps. But no significant twisting. I cut a slot in a spare mount crossmember and shimmed out the space to move it back and use the original mounting ears. I felt comfortable with it based on the loads it would see in use.

The injectors won't open unless the ignition coil pulse on Pin 1 is there at the ECU. Don't assume that the injectors are bad or some other assumption. Might just be the EFI fusible link. You can't do much on these EFI systems without a meter, except guess. The ECU's do fail, but that's an expensive guess. classiczcars.com has free downloadable service manuals with all of the diagnostic procedures.

I was using the millenial label as a descriptor of behavior. Not the age range. Bnapi fits the description. I don't really know how old he is. He could be 40 years old and has just left home. We've kind of gone full circle though, because Bnapi labeled all of the Hybridz members, based on his interpretation of one single post.

Here is the key moment when Bnapi made the choice between dbag and helpful, knowledgeable, cool new member. He made the self-absorbed choice. I'm going to guess that he's a young guy, newly fledged from his overprotective parents. Just learning how to take care of himself. Used to having his needs pandered to immediately. I think that they call them millennials, in the media. Kind of sad actually that the other forums have delayed his growth in to manhood. Good luck Bnapi. Man up.

I would put the head back on if you have the timing chain tensioner properly locked in to place, and just put some force on it in the normal rotation direction. I had assumed that you would put the head back on before trying to rotate it. You can't turn the crankshaft with the head off because the chain has to move. If you don't have the tensioner locked you won't be able to get the sprocket back on anyway so you'll have to remove the front cover.

Sometimes when you get focused on a problem you spend more time making it happen than figuring out how to make it not happen. I can make my drivetrain clunk if I want to, but I tend to drive it in a way that it doesn't clunk. The Z drivetrains are kind of sloppy. Six u-joints, a loose tolerance differential and old worn out transmissions. Once you've minimized all of the slop all that's left is to smooth out your driving skills.

The pictures show a pretty normal old "survivor" car. Dents from speed bumps, light rust. No red flags at all. It even still has the damper weight on the diff mount crossmember so nobody's been modifying it. But for $10,000 you could probably find a nicer 1977 280Z. I don't see anywhere near $10,000 of rust repairs on that car though. Value depends on plans.

Don't overlook the other mounts. I've had a couple of broken motor mounts in other, bigger, cars and that's what you get, one thunk as the motor sets back down. Feels like you ran over something. The transmission mount is designed just like the diff mount, and the mounting member itself has rubber on the ends. All could cause problems.

It's on the bottom of the page also.

Zhoob's link will have the wire colors. If you want to be sure. I think that the inhibitor switch is at the shift lever or on the transmission. A neutral switch. The diagram might show location, or the transmission chapter might show the switch.

Do a Google search and it looks like the finned one. The flat one has a different part number also. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/finned-r200-diff-cover.12685/ Turbo Z's - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-cover-rear-fina~38351-n3110.html Flat one - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/differential-gear/r200

I would put it all back together and drive it.

Is it an automatic? The circled "A" is the circuit for that. There's an inhibitor relay.

Sounds like your timing is off, a light would show that, or you have your plug wires to the wrong cylinders, or you have some crossfire between wires. You still haven't really told anything about the engine management. You can't run EDIS using the stock 280Z EFI system. Actually, maybe you could but you would be stuck in "limp home mode", at 10 degrees. Assuming that you set it up right. Again, a timing light would show it. Good luck with your mystery project.

Sometimes people discover that the rear caliper bleed screw hole is not actually the highest point when installed after these conversions, because they're not designed for Z cars. It's close but still has a spot for an air bubble. They have to unbolt the caliper and rotate it so that the channel to the bleed port really is the highest point. They bleed the brakes with the caliper loose, then rotate it back and bolt it down when they're done. Be the bubble.

I am aware, just wasn't sure you were. 153624 >> 1-6, 5-2, 3-4 looks right for pairing. Have you checked timing with a light? You haven't really confirmed what you know besides the parts that you bolted on. "I bolted these parts on, it doesn't work." A common cause for backfiring through the carbs (some people call it front-firing, since backfire usually means at the exhaust pipe) is a bad cam lobe. Your problem might be mechanical not electrical. Have you checked valve lash and cam shaft quality? The short direct answer to your question in the first post is "yes, it's described in two of the threads in the link I provided". Good luck.

What engine management system are you using? EDIS isn't coil on plug, it's coil packs, with one coil firing two cylinders. Not really clear what you're describing. Coil on plug is typically one power transistor per coil managed by the EMS, EDIS has it own separate control system. There's a couple of EDIS threads in this topic - https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/93-megasquirt/

The nuts for the cross piece are hard to get to. But removing it will give you more room to work. Buy a bigger wrench if you need to. A pipe wrench will also work. It will chew it up the plug in a different way than just rounding the corners. But, used properly, it will self-tighten as you apply leverage. They only go on one way. Heat the aluminum around the plug, not the plug itself. Aluminum expands more than steel with heat. Use big leverage. Get your wrench set up in the proper place so that you can get a long cheater pipe on the end and will have room to move it. Heat the cover around the plug and apply leverage while it's still hot. Aluminum conducts heat very fast also so the time you take putting away the torch and getting set to apply leverage can let it tighten up again. If you can, using your leg to move the wrench or with a friend, apply the force while you heat the cover. That way you'll use the minimum amount of heat needed to get it to move. Just some tips. Your problem is not uncommon. Getting things setup just right before applying the heat and the force is important. It's all of the halfway attempts beforehand that tear things up.

Sounds more like they were just bad shocks/inserts from the beginning, or they were actually the wrong ones for the car. The oil in the strut tube would have had no effect. It's on the outside of the shock body. It doesn't move at all as the suspension moves. Just a pool of oil, sitting there, doing nothing. KYB makes a good product. Good luck.

It's probably a light ring of rust right next to the piston rings. Take a closeup shot of the bores and a piston top and you'll probably see something. Not much you can do except get it well lubed up for when it breaks free. Get some 30 wt. in there. The penetrant and the diesel won't affect rust, but they will let the rings slide over it, hopefully. Rust never sleeps. I was digging through some old brake parts that I stored brand new in a dry box in a dry garage the other other day. Rusted and ruined.

That would be a good setup. I didn't realize that you already had the 123 Ignition in your first post. That's the way to do it, I think. 123 could expand their market if they made it more of a "high energy" system.

Do you have programmable timing advance?

Actually, "automatic" dwell is designed to be the most powerful. Automatic dwell is actually current control. The module still has to be able to handle the high current though, and 123 seems to specify high resistance coils.