NewZed

You could do the power-to-weight ratio calculation. Might help. Here's some interesting comments from a bunch of the race guys, all in one thread. TimZ made a whole bunch of power.

Separate power from RPM. Some of the parts you're looking at are for high RPM purposes. If you keep the RPM down you can make power for cheap with a turbo, without destroying things. Some people recommend building a throwaway engine, tuning it to the power level you want, then mimicking it with more durable parts. You might find that 250 HP is more than enough and you don't need the expensive parts. Your 300 HP goal is really just picked from air, isn't it?

There's some good stuff in this thread - https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/

That seems odd. In 1972 they were at 29 degrees centrifugal by 2000 RPM. Even higher depending on which spec you look at. Up to 33 (17 + 16) or higher, 17 + 20, maybe. (Nissan has conflicting info in their FSM's).

This thread might help. Similar topic. And the FSM has wiring diagrams. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129664-troubleshooting-issues-280zxt-fsm/?tab=comments#comment-1210880

One way that people test the CAS is to pull the distributor (the CAS is inside, the disc with the holes), turn the key on, and spin the distributor by hand. If the CAS is working and the ECCS computer is getting a good CAS signal the injectors will open and click as it spins. If you don't get injector opening then there's a CAS and/or computer problem. If you get injector opening but no spark, you probably have an ignitor, coil, or distributor problem. Also, if you decide to probe the CAS with a meter, you have to do it from the back of the plug while it's connected. With a good meter sometimes you can see the CAS signal. I think that cg has posted on that also. Here's a Google search with some good reading: https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=UAJeXKWcFNrA0PEPjPyTyA0&q=site%3Ahybridz.org+cgsheen+cas&btnK=Google+Search&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+cgsheen+cas&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1162.8970..10635...0.0..0.62.1027.28......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0j0i131j0i10.QSMwtW6q4j4

Those do work if the ignitor is actually bad. Search for cgsheen's posts and you'll learn more.

Is this an assumption or is there something behind the statement? Serious question, I just hate to see people waste time, money and effort if they don't have to. If they have been shown to be "inadequate" the proper next step is to define in what way they are inadequate. Heat buildup, stopping power, wear rate.. etc. Even if a person decides to go ahead on just the assumption that they're inadequate, these things need to be defined. You can't improve something unless you know where you started. You could actually end up with worse brakes than when you started. And not even know it.

If you have a turbo model you should be on page 32. It's called a Crank Angle Sensor, CAS. You probably switched for something like the Pathfinder power transistor? The 280ZX manuals are hard to work with. They don't flow very well and Nissan put troubleshooting and wiring diagrams in odd places. You might have better luck in the Engine Fuel and Emissions Control, EFEC, chapter. The ECCS uses the CAS to control timing and fire the injectors. I'm pretty sure I've seen CAS troubleshooting in that chapter. cgsheen knows a bunch about the 280ZX ECCS system. Search his name and CAS and you'll find some stuff. He's around occasionally. @cgsheen Good luck.

It's possible and should be very easy. 1978 uses a different fuel pump control system than the other years. The relays are in the engine compartment. Since it doesn't use the AFM anymore you should be able to keep full functionality of the fuel pump control system. I've found that trying to use other people's instructions directly doesn't work well. Study them and the wiring diagram and make your own decisions. The fuel pump control is explained in detail in the FSM and the wiring diagrams are free all over the internet. In color even. Good luck.

They look like a neat new product. There will eventually be a limited source of replacements for the u-joint half shafts, for sure. So that's a good reason. I have a lowered 280Z and the halfshaft actually has a lower joint angle. It's almost straight. So that reason doesn't fit. I'd suggest not over-hyping, and being sure about your claims. The 800 or 1000 HP claims by the other guys get ridiculed all the time. At the end of the day, it's just a CV axle replacement for u-joint half-shafts. Might be a lot of effort behind, but still, it's just a CV axle. And, from your other Dime thread there's not enough of them installed to make a good claim about smoothness. The u-joint shafts are very smooth if the u-joints are in good shape. Just saying, time and experience will tell, today's words don't mean too much. I don't think any have been installed in a Z yet, have they? Can't really make Z claims until they've been in a Z. But, it's very nice that no adapters are required. It's a true "bolt-in" replacement. That's your real selling point. If you tell where the CV's come from it will add a lot. Are they made in Asia knockoff cheap-o's or high quality name brand car parts. Some of the Porsche 930 style shafts use cheap joints and now they have a bad rep, depending on where you get them. Good luck. Show some installed in a Z.

With these old EFI systems and just general wiring of the cars it pays to assume that anything could be the cause and check out all possibilities. "It can't be that" has wasted a lot of time for many people. If your tach worked you could just take it for some test drives and watch the needle. The tach is connected to the ignition circuit and the EFI computer and might even be part of the problem. Might be worthwhile to check the wiring to the tach. Download the 280Z FSM. It's full of good test methods and wiring diagrams. p.s. I screwed up and thought you had a ZX. Your 1978 distributor doesn't have the match box unless somebody swapped one in. They still go bad though. MY 76 had the high RPM problem and would restart just fine right after stopping. Edit p.s. #2 - the little"i"s and texting mode punctuation kind of irritated me, hence the tone. It's common but still... Carry on, good luck.

You've gained expertise amazingly rapidly. You should have it solved soon. Good luck.

It could. They'll cool off pretty quickly. They're exposed and attached to the distributor. It's heat generated from inside the module that overheats them. Sometimes as they're going bad they'll only die at higher RPM when there's a lot of current flowing.

Here's some good stuff. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

Looks like you have a new problem. The diagnosis on the first and the fix was good. Not sure that you need those new parts, cleaning connections is usually good enough. Bad connections are a major problem on the old Z's and ZX's. Poor sealing and weak metal. Did you notice what the tachometer needle did when it died? If the needle still followed engine RPM as you coasted to the side of the road that means you still had spark. If the needle dropped to zero even though the key was on and engine turning that means you probably lost spark. How long was the car sitting before and why did they park it? Might be that the ignition module, the "match box" on the side of the distributor is going bad. (Edit - screwed up here. 1978 doesn't have the match box.) Or the stator magnets in the distributor . Super common problems. The module heats up, engine dies, cools off, engine starts. Short - check the inside of the distributor. Check the teeth of the six pointed rotor for wear. The bushings go bad and they move and rub. Clean the matchbox connections. Check the breaker plate bearings for rust. Most old ZX distributors have died or are about to die. Since you passed smog and it runs well don't go too crazy.

$80 is questions answered, here you go folks. $200, or $199, is you need some luck. Good luck.

Sorry, missed it. Kind of buried. Good luck.

Yes, that was my question. In the short number of years I've been bumbling around the Z sites I've not seen much demand for a different/better transmission mount. Cool that you designed and made one. Just wasn't clear why you did. Good luck. Cost will probably affect interest. You might ballpark that and post it up.

Edit - Correction. I wasn't thinking right on pressure control. Rate of response can be affected but the pressure will still be controlled by the FPR just back at a central node instead of right at the end of the rail. Size and length of fuel line would be a consideration. Vacuum hose also. BRAAP has written about this. Carry on...

What's wrong with the stock mount?

Here's a pretty cool thing that opens up a wide range of FPR's. http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Products/resources/2777288587/en/pdf/FPR_Adaptor_Datasheet_51_en_2777257739.pdf

Before the fuel rail is called "dead heading". The fuel rail is a branch off of the pressurized side but the end of the "branch", the rail, is closed. Pressure is built up and maintained but the fuel can only get out through the injectors (edit - wrong). Fuel pressure in the rail can't be released quickly for varying manifold vacuum. That's bad. After the rail is more normal, "bypass" style, where the FPR acts as a pressure relief valve, letting fuel out of the rail after set pressure is reached. The aftermarket FPR's all tend to leak down very quickly, losing pressure. Most of their marketing is about when the engine is running. But for a daily driver, the wait for pressure to build and the engine to start is generally annoying. If you can use a factory FPR, designed to last hundreds of thousands of miles, with quick starting convenience, you'll probably be happier. No cool anodized aluminum colors or shiny metal though. Looks like you've already been on Aeromotive's page. Their explanations are marketing baloney. "Best possible flow and pressure control...don't compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off." It's just a cheap design. BS. Don't fall for the hype. Find a factory regulator for one of today's high horsepower engines and use it. https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/faqs/faq-efi-regulators/ "6.) I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator. Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero. Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator?No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off. They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running. OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards. At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off. "

There is a common problem with bolt size versus hole size that is solvable. But you haven't given enough information to know what you're looking for. Good luck bud.

Just checking the new guy's sense of humor. There is none, apparently. Good luck.