Injector Harness Pinout

[zspeed22]

Hello,

 

I was trying to figure out the best way to identify what injector plug goes to what injector.I decided this was my easiest way to do it.  So I made a simple .pdf from from Excel that gives the ECU pin out to the corrisponding injector and that way I will be able to just use a meter to find what injector plug goes where.  If anyone has a better idea or knows a way to easily do this please let me know as all the help would be appreciated.  I hope this document will help other people with my issues. This info was pulled from the 280-Z Electronic Fuel Injecton Theory and Troubleshooting book.

 

Thanks,

 

FuelInjectorPinNumbers.pdf

[Tony D]

You realize the plugs can go on any injector...it makes no difference...it's batch-fired.

 

Positive and Ground, that makes somewhat of a difference... But you can swap injector plugs from one injector to another without any reservation.

[zspeed22]

I was not aware of batch firing the injectors. I come from a TT 300zx background where I converted from NA to TT. 

 

I have been told by some that when you do a batch fire they fire two cylendars at once not all six.  This would be slghtly ineficient for the injectors all to fire at the same time wouldnt it?

 

So just so I have things straight I can put what ever injector plug where ever I want?  Obvously the length of the harness will determine how it lays out across the engine but other then that I would not have an issue?

 

Thank you again,

[zspeed22]

Ok so after searching batch fire I found this on the forum from BRAAP.  Thank you for the help clarifying how to sort out my wiring delema. I might be the only one but batch fire seems like a terrible way to fire injectors.  Is there any issue in L28s with rings getting washed down by excess fuel? Obviously Nissan did this for a number of years so it works my brain is just confused on how it works without causing issues. Thanks again for your help.

 

FROM BRAPP. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61625-new-fuel-injectors-and-rail-no-start/?hl=%2Bbatch+%2Bfire&do=findComment&comment=568097

 

 

Ok. lets nail this down.

1) You have a measured 40 PSI at the injectors while cranking.
2) The car finally sputtered briefly.
3) Injectors removed, noted only 2 injectors (new/used OE S-30 injectors) sprayed fuel while triggered.

Kind of sounds like either the injectors are stuck closed or you have faulty connections at the injectors themselves. Just swapping out injectors and fuel rail, sounds more like stuck/froze/corroded injectors than connections.

First, lets get the batch vs. sequential injector firing myth/theory squared away, for the 10,485 time.

The S-30 and S-130 injectors and firing orders. The numbers on the injector wires are only there to confuse people. No really. Those numbers serve no purpose other than to set the wiring so that the wire lengths all match up nice neat and purty like. The S-30/S-130 injectors are fired batch mode. They all fire at the same time, each and every time. It makes ABSOLUTELY no difference WHAT-SO-EVER what order you swap the injector plugs, the engine will run EXACTLY the same every time and the injectors will fire exactly the same at the exact same time, PERIOD! Of course, so long as the connection is good.

The S-30/S-130 injectors are a low impedance injector and as such utilize a dropping resistor, one per injector, which reside next to the clutch master cylinder. The location is not important. If you have an old EFI wiring harness laying around, cannibalize one of the injector connectors, or water temp, Thermal time, cold start injector, or IAC connectors with and extended pigtail on it, +36” in length. With injectors on the fuel rail, fuel system pressurized, The injector to be tested dangling in a clear glass/fuel safe jar, go through each injector. (Please OH please, be VERY careful as you are spraying fuel near an electrical source, i.e. the battery. Please use some sort of enclosed electrical switch/button to reduce the risk of fire. PLEASE!!!!!) You want to trigger those injectors directly from the battery, hence the +36” pigtail length. Don’t hold the injector open for any period of time longer than 5 seconds or so, just for quick short bursts at full battery voltage, (no dropping resistor) in an effort to “unstick” a possible stuck pintle valve. Note the spray pattern. Typical OE S-3-/S-130 injectors have a shallow stream/squirt gun like pattern, especially compared to modern injectors. It should be conical in shape, not too heavily biased in any direction.