vdubn Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I'm new here, but been lurking for a while. I started a project about a month ago, LS1 into a 73 240z, and found this site to be invaluable. I have most everything ready, just prepping the body with subframe connectors, fixing some twist points, etc. I got a complete drop out from a 2000 SS Camaro for a good deal, and lifted the whole engine/trans assembly off of the pallet using my cherry picker, but bolted the chains to the crossmember. Since I will be ditching the crossmember in order to install it into the Z, I started looking for good places to bolt the cherry picker chains to. This seems like it would be a simple enough question, but I don't want to chance bolting directly to the engine/trans in an area that might be too weak to support the weight. I have searched and looked through a number of build threads, but haven't seen any good recommendations of where to bolt to. Maybe its not such a big deal and I'm making more of it than I need to, but I have done a number of engine swaps on other makes of vehicles, and they all had lift point brackets bolted to secure spots.... I haven't located something similar on the LS1. I have removed the A/C bracket, and found a couple of bosses that I could bolt to, I just would hate to pull a bolt sideways from an aluminum boss. If anyone has any suggestions of a good way to securely attach and lift both engine and trans together, it would be greatly appreciated. I'll post the details of the project soon, with pics, and a formal introduction. Thanks to everyone that has done this project, your experience is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I usually take the intake off, and bolt to the front pass. head, and rear driver head with a chain. Just make sure you have enough thread engagement, and you're golden. OR you can bolt to the AC boss, and one of the bellhousing bolts on the driver's side. Again, just make sure the threads of the bolt are fully engaged. really any of the M10 bolt holes are sufficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdubn Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 Sounds good... I thought about pulling the intake off, but didn't want to mess with having to replace intake gaskets... not even sure on these if that is necessary. I think they are silicon rubber, so maybe I can pull and replace the intake without having to worry about getting new gaskets. In the end, its probably not too expensive even if I had to. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 They are not too expensive plus if still in good shape you could reuse them, not what I'd recommend though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Be careful of the rear chains when you tip the motor back to get it in, the rear chain puts pressure on the intake manifold and can break it. I cut brackets out to bolt to the accessory bosses on the cylinder heads in order to avoid contact with the intake. Sunny is smart to just remove the intake. That also should help you get the motor under the hood latch bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/myGTO/black%20devil%20motor%20sports%20pics/Picture2342.jpg My engine came with lift hooks on it like these. Its out of a 2004 GTO. Edited July 15, 2014 by socorob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.