vdubn Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks, that is good information and advice... I should clarify, in terms of the Xover pipe, I wasn't looking to squeek out extra performance, as much as I am looking for the best sound. I have heard the difference between H pipes and X pipes, and I definitely prefer the X pipe. Maybe it doesn't matter which of these to use, as long as it works well for the fitment. Very nice numbers by the way! Do you mind my asking how much you paid approximately to get your headers coated and who you used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) NitroPlate.com in Nashville. $218. I went with their shiny silver finish. Ceracoat is supposed to be the best for heat retention, but their coating looks like white coral and I figured it would get dirt and grime trapped in the porous looking finish. I coat headers for looks primarily. You are one of the first guys Ive talked to who realize that crossovers are really just sound devices to get both pipes to "speak" on each pulse. I would probably just do an H pipe for fitment ease, but there are photos in the exhaust forum showing plenty of Gus who managed to fit an X in fine. Edited July 21, 2014 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhardison Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Do you mind my asking how much you paid approximately to get your headers coated and who you used? Thanks for posting the JCI header pics. In the past I've used Jet-Hot to have my headers coated. For a pair of big-block chevy long tube headers they charged me $350 plus shipping, but that was ~6 years ago. I've seen pricing from other companies from $250-$400. So not cheap no matter who you choose, but between the great appearance and especially the under-hood heat reduction (coated outside AND inside) it's worth the coin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhardison Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) The final piece I am researching for the exhaust is the X-pipe. In the end I understand that it may make no difference which of these I run, but I wanted to see if anyone knew of any reason to buy one of these over the others. I've used both the x-pipe and h-pipe exhaust configurations. From a sound standpoint (using the same mufflers), the h-pipe gave more of a deep, throaty tone and the x-pipe more of a raspy, gurgly tone. The h-pipe configuration was MUCH easier to install/remove, especially if you install a flange in the crossover tube. Edited July 21, 2014 by dhardison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Getting the JCI headers to make the 90 degree bend was definitely tricky-I think you made a good choice. And I concur on your plan to cersmic coat-it just makes for such a clean engine bay. I did my engine swap a couple years ago and it still looks like i just did it. I have v-banded my exhaust and I love it. I used the JTR headers, but basically followed your plan, but I went single from the y-pipe back. For what it is worth, dual 2.5" to single 3" made 400hp/435tq on my bone stock LS2 at the rear wheels. Get the exhaust to fit well and be easy to service, but don't spend too much energy on it looking for a lot of power. My setup is the same. JTR headers to a single 3-in. after the y-pipe. I love the shot below. Reminds me of a Matchbox car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks for posting the JCI header pics. In the past I've used Jet-Hot to have my headers coated. For a pair of big-block chevy long tube headers they charged me $350 plus shipping, but that was ~6 years ago. I've seen pricing from other companies from $250-$400. So not cheap no matter who you choose, but between the great appearance and especially the under-hood heat reduction (coated outside AND inside) it's worth the coin. JTR offers an option to buy the headers from them already coated. It is a $100 add if I remember correctly. They look phenomenal (silver coated) and have not tarnished one bit with 10,000 miles on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdubn Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 I've used both the x-pipe and h-pipe exhaust configurations. From a sound standpoint (using the same mufflers), the h-pipe gave more of a deep, throaty tone and the x-pipe more of a raspy, gurgly tone. The h-pipe configuration was MUCH easier to install/remove, especially if you install a flange in the crossover tube. This is interesting... I had done a bunch of XPipe verse HPipe comparisons on a BMW M5 I had, and I thought that the XPipe sounded more refined, less burbly than the HPipe. I'm sure firing order, and other things contribute to this sound, so it may be with the LS1 the HPipe sounds more refined/smooth. Which mufflers were you running in both of your scenarios, and did you run any resonators? My plan is to run oval Borla's with no resonators, only about 12" to 14" long muffler cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdubn Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 My setup is the same. JTR headers to a single 3-in. after the y-pipe. I love the shot below. Reminds me of a Matchbox car. Which tank are you using in that picture? It looks like its positioned over to the pass side of the car. My plan is to run the Camaro tank centered, so I am hoping that I'll have room for dual pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhardison Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 This is interesting... I had done a bunch of XPipe verse HPipe comparisons on a BMW M5 I had, and I thought that the XPipe sounded more refined, less burbly than the HPipe. I'm sure firing order, and other things contribute to this sound, so it may be with the LS1 the HPipe sounds more refined/smooth. Which mufflers were you running in both of your scenarios, and did you run any resonators? My plan is to run oval Borla's with no resonators, only about 12" to 14" long muffler cases. I ran Dynomax (aka. Walker) oval mufflers like these (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17283/overview/) with both the x-pipe and h-pipe. No resonators. These were run on my '70 Nova with a GM 572 crate engine (I really miss that old girl). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Which tank are you using in that picture? It looks like its positioned over to the pass side of the car. My plan is to run the Camaro tank centered, so I am hoping that I'll have room for dual pipes. I am using a 240z tank that I had modified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I don't remember JCI (JTR) offering those headers . From the picture , I don't think the driver side will clear the steering shaft . I could be wrong . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdubn Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Ok, last week I took some pics of the fender flare fitment... this is the second set of flares that I bought. The first set I bought from JDMFlares.com, and they were super thin, and they were white instead of black, and the finish was terrible. This set I got from jdmfenderflares.com, they were way more sturdy, and they came in a nice black gelcoat. These look awesome and fit well. Old Wheels New wheel test fit... Its a good thing that we will be using flares and have adjustable front and rear arms to narrow the track to make clearance And here are the rear wheels with 255-40-17 tires... thinking of 245-40-17 for the fronts, but may do 255, just depends on how the clearance comes out after making adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdubn Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 I am working on the fuel system right now as well, and I made a diagram of the fuel tank as you can see below: I found these AN fuel fitting adapters that adapt the GM push on connectors to 8AN and 6AN. I am trying to figure out what exactly I need. I think I need two of these to adapt to 8AN for the pressure and return hoses at the tank, and then I think I need 2 more to adapt the fuel rail and return at the engine. Can anyone confirm that 8AN is the size I need? Also, I am trying to determine what to do with the fuel filter. Since I am running the factory camaro tank and fuel pump, I won't need a fuel pressure regulator, so I don't think I should run a filter with a regulator, but maybe that is easiest. I know the factory filters have the push on connectors, just not sure which filter would be the best to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litman Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Which tank are you using in that picture? It looks like its positioned over to the pass side of the car. My plan is to run the Camaro tank centered, so I am hoping that I'll have room for dual pipes. Dual pipes are easily achievable with the F-body fuel tank. I centered my tank then built the exhaust around it using 2 1/2" tubing and Magnaflow offset/offset oval mufflers with a 14" body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey303LSZ Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 @ Litman... BEAUTIFUL! Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Where did you get the rkr wheels in that size ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Never mind i found them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Sweet i just got me a set of those rkr's in royal flat gunmetal polish lip. Loving your project, cant wait to see those wheels on your z and the fitment up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aero Z Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) Did you get your fuel fittings figured out etc? I became quite good at mine having issues with it (Vapor smell etc). If you're using the tank shown, you should need two -6AN style fittings at the pump. You're showing the correct style. The old push on ones that didn't screw down could pop off. (Had happen twice). I'm running the '99-03 Corvette fuel filter. It has an -8an feed inlet and a -6AN return outlet. Run the return from the filter to the return on your pump. I didn't run the line from the charcoal canister/fuel tank back to engine inlet. I eventually yanked the canister completely and used check valves and a line back up to the filler neck. That stuff was removed on the tune anyway. Dont leave the charcoal canister and valve box. Its nominally OPEN without power and will stink up your garage...I know. The fuel rail fitting should be a -6AN too. After having the old one POP off under pressure I had a fitting welded on. But the new screw on style should be fine. By my count you'll need 4 -6AN and one -8AN fittings and whatever adapters you need for the style fuel line you're using. Measure everything to be sure though but I made a flowchart with specs and thats what I'm showing I ordered. Edited September 15, 2014 by Aero Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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