QWKDTSN Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 Okay guys... I have no idea how I'm going to set up the hoses from my heater core to the motor once I get it in. I have two spots for fittings on either side of the water neck (circled) but nothing on the water pump. I'd think I would need the water pump to circulate the water through the heater core, I definitely can't just connect the two hoses to both sides of the intake manifold. The 10-second car in the JTR manual has one hose actually going to the fitting on the water pump that my water pump doesn't have and it appears that the other hose goes to the passenger-side fitting on the intake manifold. My second question is regarding the power brake booster vacuum fitting. The only point for a vaccuum fitting on my manifold (Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap) is under the carb, as seen here. Of course, the carb doesn't leave enough room for a fitting (murphy's law). I guess I'll have to get a phenolic spacer and some longer studs, huh? I'm going to be using the vaccuum fitting on the carb (with the black cap on it) for the PCV valve so that's no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 11, 2001 Share Posted November 11, 2001 Hmm, I'm not really up on alluminum water pumps; but PAW is chock full of alluminum water pumps w/coolant pipe fitting passages already on them. What brand name water pump are you using? I'ld get the tech line number for the mfg of the water pump & ask them exactly what they expect you to do about your heater core situation. I'ld also call Edlebrock & ask them for suggestions on the heater core return line; same thing on your brake booster...surely Edelbrock QC would've thought of every possible carb being used on their manifold & not covered up the vacuum port for the manifold line(?). Maybe someone else who isnt still an inliner & has come across this before can chime in. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted November 12, 2001 Author Share Posted November 12, 2001 The water pump is a short-style Moroso aluminum, Jegs PN 710-63500. I just figured that every water pump on the market had that fitting in the top, the picture in Jegs doesn't show the top of the pump and their blurb doesn't say anything about it. Neither does the information page on Moroso's website. I'm worried that if I have to add a spacer under the carb, I won't have enough hood clearance and I need to use that vaccuum fitting for the brakes booster because I refuse to use manual brakes when I don't have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 It looks like there is a flat boss re-inforced on the left side opposite your question mark and slightly below that might be able to be drilled and tapped. I would call Moroso, but maybe this is considered to be more of a racing pump where you wouldn't normally even have a heater? Just a thought, but I'd call them for sure, and if you do have to drill and tap that boss make sure thats on the outlet side of the pump (looks like it..). Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 if your not running a heater core you can just put a plug in all three fitting ports and everything will be fine but a little trick that works well to cool the heads better than normal(but it looks bad)is to run a hose from the sensor port on the side of the cylinder head (the port that in most cases holds the heat sensor near the center two cylinders near the header flange on the cylinder heads) too the two forward water return passage ports near the main radiator return hose. this will flow extra water by the two center exhaust ports that tend to run hot. but be sure the route the hoses along not over the valve covers for easy access but not too close to the headers. BTW GREAT PHOTOS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 GrumpyVette, About the cooling trick for the cyl.heads; were you talking about running the line from the sensor (in the cyl.head) to the radiator cooling tanks that are actually in the radiator? (Good Idea/never thought of that). If that is what you're talking about; then the line would initially run from the cylinder head, to the radiator coolant inlet, from the radiator coolant oultet to the water pump(?); yes/no. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 no the lines run from the sensor ports on the heads to the two ports you show in your photo that are circled in red, water enters the engine by being sucked into the big lower intake port on the water pump(lower water hose on the radiator)courses through the block and then travels back to the upper radiator hose through the heads and into the forward manifold cross-over that feeds the upper return hose to the radiator.the addition of the extra hoses increases the flow speed through the engine of the coolent and drilling about 8- 1/8" holes in the thermostat flange perimeter will also help increase flow too.some of the stock car boys do this and they say with no other changes it cools the heads near the exhaust ports about 7-15 degs more!(thats important for exhaust valve guide wear too.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Nice of Edelbrock to make the manifold so that only they're AFB style carb fits with clearance enough to use that port. You could use a spacer, but what if the spacer is hurting your power (which it can in some cases) then what (not a comment to you, but to Edelbrock). Even a 90 deg brass elbow for vacuum will probably take at least an inch in there. Not to offend anyone using Edelbrock, but some times on some of they're products, they tend to make they're own decisions about the placement of items or even the elimination of some things that are required on a stock setup at they're own discretion. Thats one of the reasons I try to avoid using them (not that they don't perform well, I'm not saying that at all). I also don't care for all they're diversity into other products, why bother with shocks and mufflers for example when there is enough competition around doing that? Vic, buddy, stick with the induction stuff, thats what you always did best. Just a biased opinion of course. Regards, Lone Ps: in the jegs catalog, that Moroso water pump has a 'For racing only' note at the bottom, perhaps thats why... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted November 12, 2001 Author Share Posted November 12, 2001 No it doesn't... "Moroso has developed a low drag aluminum impeller to reduce horsepower loss, while still maintaining adequate flow. On the dyno, actual horsepower gain over a stock pump was 14HP at 7500RPM! Available in a 'short' design only, but spacers can be used to convert to a long design. Features an integral cam stop boss to eliminate camshaft walk." Then it gives the part numbers (SB Chev, BB Chev, SB Chev Oval Track, SB Chev spacers, BB Chev spacers). There's nothing about "for racing only". What catalog are you looking in, lone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 My bad it wasn't Jegs... I thought for a moment, Lone, did you really read that or have you been drinking to many fermented vegetable products.. It was Summit Racing in a paper catalog, I also checked online, heres the link: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?d=5&s=280&p=1049&part=2338 This is the detail pop up window for part number MOR-63500. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Maybe I can help with the heater hose issue. My motor from the JY also has no heater hose connections. It is from a '91 TA. On this motor the bottom hose coming out of the firewall goes to a port on the intake manifold. The top hose goes to a port on the passenger side of the radiator just below the cap. Here is a pic or two that might help: ]http://www.zparts.com/showcase/djudayv8proj/images/fbs01r16f20.jpg' alt='fbs01r16f20.jpg'> My guess is though, that you have no port on your radiator. Sorry, I'm using the small Camero unit with Taurus fan. You may have to swap either the pump to and earlier app or the radiator to a newer one. Hope this helps some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Screwed up something. Here is that other pic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Wow, just had another thought. If your pump is for a later car make sure it is not a reverse rotation type for the serpentine belt set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Hi Nion. Go look at my web page, It shows a lot of the ports you have. Most I pluged up. You can see the pics here: http://www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/newv8pics.html Dave Booth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted November 13, 2001 Author Share Posted November 13, 2001 So do you guys think I should use the port on my carb for the brake booster and not run a PCV? I know there's been a lot of discussion lately on PCVs and I'm still unsure of their use. The Camaro we built in autoshop for 1/8th mile drag racing just has two breathers and no PCV. I think I'm going to try and return the Moroso water pump for a different one.... Anything you guys would reccommend for the same price range? (barely over $100) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 If that's the only existing vacuum port in the manifold, you might have enough wall thickness in the runners to drill and tap for another. Or you could put a T on the carb base large vacuum port (rear, on the throttle body) and run both the PCV and brake booster to it. Definitely run a PCV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanzo57 Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 I would recommend the Weiand aluminum long pump. It's got an outlet for the heater and bosses for accessory brackets. It costs around $110. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Or you could put a T on the carb base large vacuum port (rear, on the throttle body) and run both the PCV and brake booster to it. Definitely run a PCV. Pete is right on about the T, that's exactly what I did. Do run a PVC on one valve cover and a breather on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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