RebekahsZ Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Anybody built or seen an S30 front crossmember that can be easily removed to allow quick removal of the oil pan for inspection/servicing of the bottom end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Is the engine not bolted to the crossmember? If it were removed.....I'm not following Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Not a project for this year. I've just seen some aftermarket K-members in Mustangs that allow you to drop the pan and pull rods and pistons while the engine is still in the car. Might require relocating engine mounts to frame rails. So your point is a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 It's much better to weld the engine crossmember to the frame. Old ITS racer cheater trick. Why would you need quick access to the insides of the engine? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 I dunno. I'm just planning my next Z car in my head and it will be a big horsepower V8 car either boosted or NO2, and I'm imagining the possibility of having to do track-side bottom end repairs. I would like to do a Drag Week and a Bonneville Speed Week, and Im just thinking about improving serviceability in the pits for repairing or inspecting things that go boom. So far, I have never had a significant powertrain failure cause I'm very much a novice, and have kept power levels low. But the engine in my truck will have come out of the chassis twice for main bearings before achieving a period of reliability (we will see). Plus, Im having a garage but for a lift, so I'm imaging being able to do more repairs from under the car. Like the oil pan baffle I will be doing this winter. Just idle brain storming and imagining putting some holes in pistons. I guess no one has done it, or sees a need. That's cool. I'm kinda thinking I will use the Hawks 3rd Gen mounts next time, so that will make the frame rail plan a reality. Maybe I will replace the center section of the cross member with a removeable tubing section of some kind. I know the steering rack is also under the pan, but only just a little. Will retain stock style front suspension. We'll see. Thanks for the reality check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 The stock crossmember is held in by 4 bolts. I can't think of a way to do it properly with fewer bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 It's much better to weld the engine crossmember to the frame. Old ITS racer cheater trick. It's helpful to add the remaining context to statements like this. For instance: ... because they found the steering to be crisper. ... because they found the chassis to be stiffer. ... because they lost the bolts one Sat afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 I dunno. I'm just planning my next Z car in my head and it will be a big horsepower V8 car either boosted or NO2, and I'm imagining the possibility of having to do track-side bottom end repairs. I would like to do a Drag Week and a Bonneville Speed Week, and Im just thinking about improving serviceability in the pits for repairing or inspecting things that go boom. So far, I have never had a significant powertrain failure cause I'm very much a novice, and have kept power levels low. But the engine in my truck will have come out of the chassis twice for main bearings before achieving a period of reliability (we will see). Plus, Im having a garage but for a lift, so I'm imaging being able to do more repairs from under the car. Like the oil pan baffle I will be doing this winter. Just idle brain storming and imagining putting some holes in pistons. I guess no one has done it, or sees a need. That's cool. I'm kinda thinking I will use the Hawks 3rd Gen mounts next time, so that will make the frame rail plan a reality. Maybe I will replace the center section of the cross member with a removeable tubing section of some kind. I know the steering rack is also under the pan, but only just a little. Will retain stock style front suspension. We'll see. Thanks for the reality check. To prevent putting holes in the top of the pistons, the bottom end should be all forged components with ceramic coated piston tops. Also a good data acquisition engine computer like AEM or Electromotive to record temperature and pressure parameters in order to spot possible damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 4-bolts. And the LCA mounting bolts, and the engine mounts. I was kinda thinking about making one where just the center section was removable. So that those other items can remain installed. A "convertable" or "quick-release" crossmember. Or maybe just a crossmber that has more engine clearance. Sounds like my project to work out. Seems the first step would be to get the engine weight off of it. I'm happy to quit the discussion if it is folly. When I drop the pan this winter, I can report back on how motivated I really am about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Move the engine mounts further aft. Use Bad Dog frame rail reinforcement plates under the new engine mounts. Then three bolts on each shock tower, disconnect steering universal at the steering box and then 2 bolts on either side of the existing cross-member and the whole thing should come down. If installing a lift in the garage, need some type of jack to lower the complete front suspension assembly. Then access to the oil pan is easy. Get ready for possible scuffed up rod and main bearings. Cleavite sells coated main and rod bearings which are a good idea for short loss of oil pressure. Then get baffled oil pan and pressurized oil reserve bottle. That may stop momentary loss of oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 "... because they found the steering to be crisper. ... because they found the chassis to be stiffer. ... because they lost the bolts one Sat afternoon." Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Move the engine mounts further aft. Use Bad Dog frame rail reinforcement plates under the new engine mounts. Then three bolts on each shock tower, disconnect steering universal at the steering box and then 2 bolts on either side of the existing cross-member and the whole thing should come down. If installing a lift in the garage, need some type of jack to lower the complete front suspension assembly. Then access to the oil pan is easy. Get ready for possible scuffed up rod and main bearings. Cleavite sells coated main and rod bearings which are a good idea for short loss of oil pressure. Then get baffled oil pan and pressurized oil reserve bottle. That may stop momentary loss of oil pressure. The same thing can be done with floor jack and jack stands. First the steering universal, then the shock tower nuts then the cross-member bolts. Roll the front suspension away and access the engine pan bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 The same thing can be done with floor jack and jack stands. First the steering universal, then the shock tower nuts then the cross-member bolts. Roll the front suspension away and access the engine pan bolts. I'm assuming you have those fancy new rubber band elastic SS brake lines and the REALLY soft T/C bushings.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 All kidding aside, what you really need is this. A two part system really. One is a removable section between the two rack mount cups as you mentioned before. But the second part you need is a way to add a support across and below this section BEFORE you remove it. Add some captured nuts either side of this removable section, and fabricate a big a$$ U shaped section channel that attaches left and right of the removable section that extends below it to then support the K-member after you remove the center section. Simple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 Now we are talking. z240, you seem to understand what I'm after. Something that doesn't require bleeding brakes and an alignment. You know, something that makes life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 There is a pic in my gallery that shows a modified crossmember that I have had for the last few years. McKinney Motorsports modified and reinforced it for me. This has allowed me to easily remove the oil pan for inspection purposes without crossmember interference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 So I missed the brake lines and T/Cs. Big deal. Just wonder how long he will live with the oiling problem. If fixed once and for all, don't need to keep removing the oil pan. Add oil pressure data recording to see if the problem is taken care of the first time in the Hi-G maneuvers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 Turbo Meistersinger, I looked at your gallery and found the photo-that's the ticket! If you wind up with the car up high enough this winter to take a bunch of additional pictures, I would sure appreciate it of you could send them to me via PM. Don't know if I could do that mod with the engine still in the car or not. But that's what Im after. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 29, 2014 Author Share Posted November 29, 2014 And rsicard, it's OK, I just don't think you understood what I was after, I should have been more clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 And rsicard, it's OK, I just don't think you understood what I was after, I should have been more clear. I was guessing that what was wanted was easy clearance to remove the oil pan. Thought that the reason for removing the oil pan was to check the rod and main bearings. If that is the reason, then the crank should be checked for damage. If none, then mike the crank and order new main and rod bearings. Suggested the Cleavite coated bearings as these will take the momentary loss of oil pressure. Be sure to get the fat felpro "O" ring for the oil pickup so no pickup oil leak. Had also suggested going to baffled oil pan with kickouts. More oil volume, baffles to control slosh and crank scraper. Might want to replace the oil pump while at it. Just some suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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