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2 Piece Timing Cover


Owen

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These are supposed to be hi-tech items right? Well don't get the one made by Proform that Summit sells.

 

It can't be used with a timing pointer that needs to be bolted into two of the timing cover bolt holes. I ground one corner off the upper cover.

 

My damper is only like 6" big and the stupid holes to unbolt the top of the cover from the bottom end up BEHIND the damper! You can leave the bolts out and install it, BUT, you have to install the upper and lower corners first! AND, if you don't cut off a corner like I did, you won't be able to get the upper cover off anyway! POS!

 

There is now a small hole, from excessive grinding, in the side of the cover near the middle where the upper and lower covers meet. It was plugged up but I forsee problems...

 

Does anyone think this little crack, just enough to stick my fingernail in, will cause any problems? Is the timing cover there to just cover the timing chain, or does it play a part in ventilation, pressure, etc? Will oil spew out???

 

Thanks.

Owen

 

 

 

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http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

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Owen, I almost bought one of these myself and now I'm glad I didn't!

 

Is this the aluminum cover or the cheapie steel one made in a third world country perhaps? When you talk about the gap (small hole), I'm picturing it over a part of the cover that is NOT against a gasket. Correct? If so, Babe, you got problems. A cheapie solution would be to take the cover off again and plug the offending hole with JB Weld or something like it. If the hole is as small as you say it is you most likely won't have to trash it (unless you are Pete Peraska [it's a joke Pete!]) Bummer Dude! frown.gif Try a good epoxy putty on the inside unless you feel that it is not worth the risk.

 

Anyone else out there have different advice?

 

David

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Guest Anonymous

If its steel, you can weld the crack (won't be shiny chrome after if thats the finish obviously). If its cast aluminum, you can use like Alumaloy or Durafix:

http://durafix.com/alu.html

 

Only downside is the stuff is a bit expensive, but it does do a good job of patching cast aluminum.

Or... go with a epoxy JB weld or something and hope it doesn't leak. Its usually not under any pressure (the timing chain cover) unless your block isn't venting somewhere, but alot of oil can get slung around up there. Good luck.

 

Lone

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We've got a bit of a car mailing list at work smile.gif A day or so ago the topic of 2 piece covers came up. The consensus, gather from personal experience and from the Chevy bulletin boards on the 'net, was that only the expensive 2 piece billet piece sold by one the vendors in Jeg'sSummit. Having had a one piece on a SBC that had a bad seal I can tell you it was a real PITA when I replaced the seal, dropping th epan down some, only to have to remove the damned pan in order to fix the REAR seal on it! Argh! Never again I hope... and yeah, I'm pretty sure I've got a one piece on my motor - th etwo piece covers always mention a thrust bearing and I'll be darned if I know what that's for or how to set it up. Fords don't have that stuff smile.gif

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Two piece:

I've tried the Mr. Gasket steel one - it leaked.

Now I'm trying the pressed Aluminum version the Edelbrock makes. I see no reason that it should leak, since they've addressed the issue of having bolts around the bottom. I'll post a report when I get it on, as I'm still making oil pan decisions.

 

Timing pointer:

To really make use of the two piece cover, I decided that a block mounted timing pointer that could stay in place while the 1 piece of the 2 piece cover was removed made sense. I made one that bolts to those two bolt bosses on the block to the right of the timing cover when viewed from the front. This way, you can even leave the balancer intact, and the timing pointer doesn't need to be calibrated to actual TDC again. you just remove the bolts that hold the 1 piece on, and rotate it to the left. BTW, those two sets of two bolt bosses on either side of the lower timing cover area are for the old style (50s) cars and some of the later large trucks.

 

Thrust button:

That's only needed if you use a roller cam. The flat tappet cams are ground with a slop in the lobes (front up to rear) to push the cam back in the block. The roller does not have this slope, and needs a way of pushing the cam aft. They're very easy to install and use though.

 

[This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 25, 2001).]

 

[This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 25, 2001).]

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