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Connecting Rods


warcmalla

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Would you guys spend $380 on having stock L24 rods bushed and prepped for floating pistons or take take a chance on ebay h-beam forged rods for around the same price.  I discussed with my machinist about 6 months ago to just float the pin without bushings, but now I am reconsidering it since I am already spending lots of money and my machinist implied I might be better off going aftermarket for the money.  Or should I go with my original plan to just float the pin without a bushing.  I am building a 3.1L with JE forged pistons.  I've got some money tied up in this build, but I'm trying not to spend unnecessary money at this point.  Of the $380, $250 is for bushing the small end of the rod, which he does not have the equipment to do, so he is outsourcing that procedure.  Please let me know what you guys think.

 

Thanks,

 

Marc.  

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I have read a few places that the Cxracing h beam rods are solid, light, and priced right. I have never used them myself but was going to run them on the l28 I'm building now. IMO it's worth using good bolts, which you would probably use anyways. I say go aftermarket.

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I have run 'spool' (ebay) L28 rods for many years now and they've been faultless on track/road revving to 7,000rpm with cast oversize pistons. Lighter than OEM rods, Bushed for a full floating pin and fitted with ARP hardware. Much better value for your money than prepping the stock rods. IMO

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Let's consider what input we have here:

Running rods which are lighter, on an engine that doesn't see over 7,000rpms...

Someone else heard some other eBay rods were "good"...

 

 

FWIW:

"How to Modify" book specifically states floating pins without bushings is totally acceptable. The bushing really is wasted money as it's not a component that rotates. If it frets, or otherwise damages the rod, you can always bush it.

 

We ran I don't know how many seasons at Bonneville on pressed-in pins...which eventually walked (Pistons not light, RPMs quite a bit over 7,000 for extended periods at a time...like five-minute pulls...) every machinist and engine builder said "never seen a pressed-in piston pin do that before. Bores remained dimensionally accurate, we're not bushed, and retained press fit replacements (now with Teflon buttons!) just fine.

 

You can do what you want...but the "lightness" is really moot if you're not seriously competing and getting piston speeds up there, regularly.

 

Stock rods, prepped and with ARP bolts are cheaper? That's the way I'd go...since its proven effective for me in the past.

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If you were talking Carillo, or Merchart...we wouldn't be talking since they're about $1,200 a set.

 

Un-bushed prepped rods are one hell of a good deal, and of known durability.

 

Last I checked, bushings were $20 a rod plus the bushings. I don't know your "discount" for not bushing the small end, but that's looking to be $120 just for fitting. They're positively not a "requirement" by any means, get the lube hole proper and you're golden for that price!

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