Connor280ZX Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Other than the ArizonaZcar, and GrayTech spacer (Website broken), is there any other place I can find a TB spacer that is ported for use of the air regulator? One like the photo attached, which is Grays. Again, his website has been broken for months (I've been checking it every month or so to see if it starts working again), so he's probably defunct. '82 N/A. Any help is appreciated. Edited February 15, 2015 by Connor280ZX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 You could just tap a regular one really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I eliminated it and made a solenoid operated bypass orifice that used an EGR Solenoid wired on the Thermotime switch. Idles up for a longer period than I liked, so I just eliminated it altogether and used that solenoid retired through the AC Clutch Circuit as my idle-up for AC Pump Engagement speed increase and removed the big vacuum pull off. Got the idea from a Suzuki Kei Car of ancient vintage that did the same thing. Worked great, if you use an old Nissan 82/83 idle air bypass needle, it looks stock! (PSA,e as for the idle circuit when you install the KA T/B!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor280ZX Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 I eliminated it and made a solenoid operated bypass orifice that used an EGR Solenoid wired on the Thermotime switch. Seems like a resonable idea, how ever with this upgrade i am still trying to make the engine look as stock as possible for inspection reasons (Though it wont be at all). Main reason why I want a ported spacer, to enable me to use the stock EMS systems such as the air regulator, which is factory. Also going to be making a custom throttle to AFM boot hat utilizes the airy bypass, vac advance, and PCV line, so it looks stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) There ARE manifolds without that air regulator on them, and the engine does run just fine without it. Especially in the Bay Area. My suggestion then is to use the bypass air screw from the 82/83 for your idle air bypass, it will look like a stock part and should bolt on nicely to the side of the manifold. The EGR solenoid is a stock part...if you read what I wrote it used all stock Nissan Junkyard parts and wiring hidden within a stock harness. The Vacuum Advance doesn't come off the AFM Boot. My suggested modification has worked with the stock ECU for two smogs, and with Megasquirt for 6 more Smog Inspections in a SAQMD non-attainment area. But feel free to pave your own road. I read any help is appreciated and thought I'd share what has worked for me in SoCal since 1998 (converted to MS in 2002). Been flawless after initial setup. Edited February 16, 2015 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor280ZX Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 My suggestion then is to use the bypass air screw from the 82/83 for your idle air bypass, it will look like a stock part and should bolt on nicely to the side of the manifold. The EGR solenoid is a stock part...if you read what I wrote it used all stock Nissan Junkyard parts and wiring hidden within a stock harness. On this KA TB, however, that idle air bypass hose that connects under the stock TB is no more, so i will be controlling my idle the old school way by using the butterfly adjustment screw. The BCDD will also be deleted (Tested mine, not working). Will talk to a machine shop about making a spacer that utilizes the fitting off of the old TB to the air regulator. Will also need to make a custom TB to AFM boot (developing blueprints with mechanic). I will make a full writeup on this for the purist, or CA owner who still needs to utilize most of the stock hoses and units. Your advice is appreciated, feel free to give me any further feedback. P.S: Contacted the owner of graytech, he is no longer in buisiness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) I never touched the idle stop screw. Never. And I started mods on a 68 VW Fastback, so in terms of Bosch "Old School" you won't get more than that. I've always utilized a proper bypass circuit due to the VW instructors drumming the Bosch Mantra into my head about doing NOTHING to disturb that sealed plate and lower the manifold vacuum. It's an incredibly hamfisted way to precisely adjust idle speed, and with so many precise bypass screws available... Have you even looked how the bypass screw works on an 82/83 ZX? (You know, the ones that don't have a BCDD in the bottom of the TB?) You don't need the big 12mm bypass lines either, 6mm is more than enough, but if you want it looking stock then you duct the air from that PCV hose up top and downstream to just about anywhere you want. The AAR from an SR fits nicely unseen just about anywhere and ducts to the manifold in exactly the same way with simple "T's" and some stock-looking tubing. It's strongpoint is that it's smaller and if you have a spacer it can bolt onto and flat surface since its a two bolt o-ring flange mounting....or you tap it and use tubing. None of the auxiliary circuits needs anything more than a 6mm hose (1/4") flowing through a stock 82 Idle air bypass screw fully opened a 1/4" hose allows a 2,200 rpm idle. As would an EGR Solenoid opening during AC Clutch Engagement, or the shutter of the AAR. Edited February 20, 2015 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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