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1970 s30 chassis plan of attack


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So I have a 1970 chassis, that has some pinholes in teh floor plans (at first glance I was thinking nothing about even replacing the pans), but I know zed findings floor pans actually help stiffen up the car. I also would like to do a full T3 suspension setup minus coilovers (already had them). Plus it'll be getting a subaru r180. 

 

This car is gutted, PO actually drilled holes in the driver side floor to lower the seat mount (mounted it directly to the floor with a tube welded in front). so that would be a reason I'd want to replace them. 

 

Right now the wiring is micky moused to the point where I'm surprised it's not shorting on the chassis. Some of that was also from me attempting to get it road legal to drive it home. 

 

The body itself is also a little beat, and I found out that there is bondo on the driver rear taillight corner area. So at some point I want this thing stripped and gone over. I know this is not cheap, was quoted 10k to strip, do body work, and paint interior, engine bay, and exterior (not including seals and whatnot) which I believe to be appropriate. This is not including me replacing the floor pans or bracing anything else up. 

 

I want to know what order to do/get things done. My plan would be to take it to someone to get the electrical done correctly preferably with a relay set up and modular harness (like all the gauges tied up to a common connector or something). Then bring it to a place that can strip it and possibly weld in new floor plans and a roll bar/harness bar. Then bring it to someplace for paint. Then once that's done do all the suspension. 

 

Ideally I would like a place to do this all, but the only place I can think of in the LA area that I really trust is Bensons (?) specifically John C. So if you could chime in that would be awesome, but I'm also wondering what other people would do. 

 

This car is being stored with my brother in Los Angeles, I live in cedar rapids. So I don't care so much about down time. I also figure this is around a $20k ish investment to the chassis. I will be back in LA for Thanksgiving, and also during xmas, so I'd like to have an idea or plan of attack for when I head back. 

 

To be clear, this car is running and driving for the most part ok (it needs front breaks, and the diff whines but that's what the subaru r180 is for). Pictures below show the condition. 

 

Here is the wiring, and also messed up gas tank venting

WP_20150427_005_zpse7oonwjz.jpg

WP_20150427_007_zpsefbyvhtn.jpg

WP_20150427_004_zpszxv3fkgr.jpg

 

Floor pans: 

passanger

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driver

WP_20141230_005_zps9fc6a2ec.jpg

WP_20141226_016_zps650c05ed.jpg

 

I don't have pic of the tail light area damage, but this is the driver rear wheel wheel, and  it is smooshed. doesn't show up that well in the pic. 

s30_zps544bda6a.jpg

I don't mind it too much since I'm hoping to get flares to cut that part out anyway. 

 

Plan is also to get a fiberglass hatch w/ lexan and cf hood. 

Edited by BluDestiny
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I would also like to note, that if this car goes in for welding/patching up the chassis, I will be using this as a guide 

For a street driven S30, here's about as much as you can do to stiffen the chassis:

1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.)
2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors
3. Weld-In Roll Bar.
4. Welded In Rear STB.
5. Triangulated Front STB.
6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement.
7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement.
8. RT Diff Mount.
9. Tubular Seat Mounts.
10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl.
11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount.
12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount.
13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction.

 

I would be doing 2, 3, 4, 8 at a minimum. Although that's dependent on the shop. I do have an RT mount to go in when the diff goes in.

Edited by BluDestiny
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