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BluDestiny

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Everything posted by BluDestiny

  1. So this is the members projects, not a question sub forum. But, all the factory service manuals are available on http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php and you can find the wiring schematics from there (not in color which sucks).
  2. Man that looks fancy. It's next on my list with a trans mount and motor mounts.
  3. All my suspension clunking is gone. The car is extremely solid now. The steering is a lot more reactive also. Overall I can't wait to try it out on the 21st at Buttonwillow. Also started the process of rebuilding an SR trans and and just waiting on a machined L series bellhousing right now from Godzilla Raceworks
  4. The driveshaft is from a 72 or later S30 Z (as long as it had a manual trans). The biggest thing is to check the length, which I posted pictures of. I did try flipping the T3 mustache bar, but the drop mounts would not line up. That was before I even got the diff lined up, so it was an immediate problem. The T3 bar is meant to be mounted more towards the gas tank. It's a fairly tight fit with all the T3 stuff. I'm bringing the car to get aligned this week since I just eye balled the toe everywhere. Will have first impressions of the drive after this weekend.
  5. The usual "I got a guy". It still has valid Iowa registration, so not too concerned as I don't drive it daily at all. But I will need to take it in before end of May.
  6. I don't remember them being much different, but I did just use a large adjustable wrench to get them off. It s possible they weren't factory, but they did have 2 opposite threads, which leads me to believe they were certainly older.
  7. So in the pic I posted I had already put on the new inner and outer tie rods. I rounded the lock nut off the passenger side, and then the ball from the inner tie rod ball came out. So I just got new inners and outers. The inners come off just with a 14" adjustable wrench and the outers come with it.
  8. The car hasn't really done much. I moved back to CA mid sep 2018 and it's just sat. It has a strange misfire type issue at a specific throttle at what i guess is 2500-3000rpm. If I floor it through that range it's fine, but if i'm trying to accelerate like a normal driver it starts to burble till I get out of that range. When it was weighed at Touge Factory (when I picked the car up) it was 2460lbs with 5 gallons in the tank. So it's around there. That's with bumpers and 15" wheels. So it's lighter than most S30's. My S30 weighs 2160lbs, but it's completely gutted. I
  9. Doing the fronts now. Small problem I ran into was the T3 front control arm ball joint bolts were longer than factory and therefor I couldn't just bolt the strut back onto the steering knuckle. I had to buy some bump steer spacers/roll center adjusters, which was no biggie since I probably needed them. Also could not get one tie rod off and the new outer tie rods I bought are both right hand threaded. My driver side inner tie rod was left hand threaded and crusty. So I got some new inner and outer tie rods. along with a solid steering rack bushing and poly steering rack mounts (still have to p
  10. So I got it all in, I did have to flip the diff mount (move the diff position backwards aka the later style) and I had cut the spacer down to 15/16ths and buy some new length bolts. Here are the spacer pics when I had the diff in the stock, forward 1970 position, notice the amount of "slack" in the spacer to diff cover vs when I rotated the lower diff mount 180* forward to move the diff back to the 1972 position: And this is the final product. I need to get it aligned still, but I have work on the front also Here is are some bonus pics of the Tr
  11. I had an SR20 Swap done on my 280zx by Touge Factory in Chicago about 2 years ago. They put the car on a scale when they were done (they got the car without an engine in it) and it was at 2460lbs. All the same things as above apply, except I had some roller steelies on the car, it did have a front bumper since my Gnose was obliterated by a brick on I-10, and I did have my whale tail on.
  12. I meant lengthen first then shorten later, as you said. I'm probably going to start getting a bell housing machined so that I test fit a KA trans. I have a track day 3rd weekend of April so I'm hoping to get as much of this done as I can before then, pending funds. T3 has mounts that work with a KA trans along with a new front diff bracket.
  13. Yeah I think the driveshaft length will be an issue. I'll also have to move the RT mount rearward if there is space. So I've also planned on going with a KA transmission down the line as I have 2 cores to rebuild and a lead on a lot of L series bell housings. But I know that will shorten the driveshaft even further. I don' t want to lengthen my driveshaft, then shorten it again later this summer. I've also read that that GM poly mount causes too much lift on the nose of the diff. Not going with that bushing as my current rubber bushing is doing fine.
  14. I do have an RT mount, but I'm not sure what you mean by snubber on the bottom? My mount was bought from Technoversion and has the 3 bolt holes.
  15. So I just found this thread, and this might be the cure if anyone can confirm that they re positioned a 70-71 diff to the 72-73 position and only had to flip the diff bushing. Here is the thread, and the main picture from the thread. I will try that later this week and see if that solves the problem. I tried it quickly last night and the center line of the diff cross member didn't seem to line up, but it was getting dark. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59052-71-z-differential-front-mount/
  16. So I started to install my T3 goodies from the black Friday sale this past weekend. I have the mustache bar and drop mounts and rear control arms going in. I currently have an STI r180 diff with Beta motorsports stubs and stock 240z axles and a RT mount. The issue I'm having is that after fitting the T3 mustache bar, it pulls the diff back about half an inch and that is causing the front diff crossmember to not line up. This is pictured below: I understand the early 240z had the diff slightly more forward and htis was fixed in the 72-73 cars. I am w
  17. Is anyone still a dealer for this or do I have to get them from Racing lab?
  18. Love this thread, I saw your video on youtube and thought you had done this all years ago.
  19. Any updates on this? I'm thinking about picking up another project, and a 3rd gen z would go nicely with my 240z and 280zx.
  20. That's weird. I can still see my pics. There is a chrome app that supposedly beats photobucket, but I'm not using it. Edit: I've also checked several other threads that use PB and I can see their pics.
  21. So it seems photobucket has decided to not suck anymore. Imagine that.
  22. Purist L27? Just a guess. What is the stroke of the crank?
  23. The BW EFR series would be good to cover. This is for a Suabru, but I'm eyeing a EFR7163. Not sure how much they correlate to the S series
  24. I bought the top mount turbo manifold they sell. It didn't come with a flat flange, and the interior had a bunch of slag on it from welding. so I basically spent anotehr #250 to have it machines, checked, and braced up. I could have gotten a doc racing manifold for that price. As for the mount kits, including Mckiney, they are all designed to keep the original sr20 front sump oil pan, and the driveshaft angle is a little steeper than I'd like. Because of this I went with a custom fabricated setup and mounted the engine as low and straight as I could.
  25. They're not going to be equal front to rear, He wants a 4 piston up front (area is listed on silvermine motors website) and a single 2 piston for regular driving, along with another single piston that is used only for ebrake capability. There has been a write up of this (minus the ebrake function) and aside from having custom rotors and brackets made, it's almost cheaper to go with a wilwood kit for something out fo the box that fits.
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